Ship ahoy! With Mastichari harbour a couple of minutes walk from our apartment, we'd have been daft not to book a day trip aboard the beautiful traditional wooden barque, Byron, named of course after the Mad, Bad and Dangerous to Know poet, still revered throughout Greece.
Don't be fooled by these photos, we had to share Byron with lots of other people.
Kalmynos is the fourth largest of the Dodecanese islands and one of the wealthiest islands in all of Greece. Visible from Mastichari (you'll see it in the sunset photos in my last post), it can be reached by ferry or speedboat from the harbour, which run daily up until midnight.
Known as the Sponge Divers' Island, sea sponges have been the main source of income of Kalymnians for thousands of years. The sponge is found at a wide variety of depths, ranging from a few centimetres to the depths of the abyss at 8500 metres. Originally gathered by free diving (ie., without equipment), the diving is done nowadays by frogmen where diving has become second nature to them. As generation followed generation, they became divers and thus, both physically and mentally they became utterly familiar with the skill of diving.
Have you seen the isle where the fig tree blossoms,
where the gnarled olive tree spreads its silvery leaves?
Have you beheld the daughter of the Sun and the Sea,
The mother of the sponge? She who conceives young
lions, breeds giants and the Kings of the Main?
It’s Kalymnos you have seen, one of the Twelve islands.
where the gnarled olive tree spreads its silvery leaves?
Have you beheld the daughter of the Sun and the Sea,
The mother of the sponge? She who conceives young
lions, breeds giants and the Kings of the Main?
It’s Kalymnos you have seen, one of the Twelve islands.
Skevos Zervos
Kalymnos was conquered and colonised by the Phoenicians in the 2nd Century BCE and in
later years was occupied by the Persians, the Genoese, the Knights of St John and the Ottoman Turks. In 1912 the Italians took control until nearly the end of the Second World War.Kalymnos was finally liberated on 31st March 1947 and, along with the rest of the Dodecanese islands, was incorporated into the Greek State in 1948.
Kalmynos is renowned for its rock climbing and from April to June and from September to October climbers of all abilities visit the island to climb the 3,000 routes.
After mooring we visited a warehouse opposite the harbour where we learnt about the variety of sponges available and treated ourselves to a couple. The darker ones, which we bought, are unbleached and should last around 5 years.
Looking back at the photos I'd taken later that day we were almost crying with laughter at the expression on that German woman's face, she clearly didn't find sponges as fascinating as us.
We hopped on the toy train and had a whistlestop tour of Pothia, the island's capital, marvelling at the town's unique architecture.
We sailed onwards, through dazzlingly blue water and were spellbound by the dolphins who frolicked alongside us. A common sight on our early morning walks along the beaches of Goa but a rare sight closer to home.
We dropped anchor off the tiny uninhabited Dodecanese island of Plati and swam for forty minutes in the refreshingly cool water.
We continued to Pserimos, a Dodecanese island where outside the Summer months, the goats outnumber the residents.
All too soon it was time to reboard and head back to Mastichari, accompanied by a cheesy musical soundtrack. We tried our best not to sing along to Gangnam Style, The Macarena and YMCA but surrounded by Germans & Italians giving it their all, thought we'd better do our bit for Team UK, who were very much in the minority aboard the Byron (and around Mastichari).
We booked our boat trip with one of the travel agencies in the village (HERE), the trips run daily with options for smaller (or private) boats. If you want to visit Kalymnos HERE's the ferry timetable.
Thanks for reading!
Cerulean blue - again. Just stunning. Thank you 😘. Has the boat trip made you think of one or two of those islands as a destination for another holiday?
ReplyDeleteI am craving bright light and sunshine - this morning I had to put a light on in the kitchen in order to be able to see to make coffee, 🥲,it has been raining all day - a fine drizzly mist that shows no signs of letting up. Cannot even see the other side of the valley.
Cerulean is spot on, the colour is mesmerising!
DeleteI'm very tempted with both those islands. I had a look at Kalymnos properties on Booking.com and they had a property available for the following week, an old stone house with its own private beach - what a shame we're expected at Womad in the morning!
After a showery start today's not been too bad, warm enough to sit outside with a book as long as I ignored the clouds! xxx
You look lovely draped on the deck in your bikini, Vix :) The sea looks so clear and blue, I think I would like to go there. You packed quite a lot in during your stay :) Betty
ReplyDeleteThanks so much, Betty! When we booked the trip we were told that all we'd need was a towel and swimwear and some cash for a drink or two and they were right, I love those casual, carefree days! xxx
DeleteOh just look at that sea and sky, I'll not compare it to the grey clouds outside my door at the moment, really I won't. That woman's face is priceless, and usually how Alan gets photos of me when I just let my face do it's own thing ... whether I'm interested in something or not. :-)
ReplyDeleteThose blue skies and waters are almost unreal, aren't they? I can sit and look at them all day (and I did on that boat trip!)
DeleteThat woman's face did make me laugh, I've always got a demented grin on my face! xxx
ReplyDeleteThe sea has so many wonderful blue and turquoise tones. The byron looks pretty <3
The turquoise blue sun hat looks great on you.
Thanks so much! I love all that blue! xxx
DeleteOh I love being on board boats! I'd happily lose hours on a boat like that. I get bored sun bathing on a beach, but weirdly, could sit around on deck all day long and those blues are the bluest of blue!
ReplyDeleteThe photo of those women in the sponge shop is hilarious! Imagine a set of alternative holiday postcards! xxx
Boat trips are so much fun - that lovely sea breeze and the excitement of what you might see next and being able to throw yourself into the sea if the heat gets too much.
DeleteI like the idea of alternative holiday postcards! xxx
Sounds like a fabulous day out. I love boats and swimming, so Island hopping would be great for me. The German woman's expression was priceless! I had no idea sponges could last so long....
ReplyDeletexxx
It was such a lovely day with lots of frequent swimming stops. I could easily do that every day.
DeleteI was surprised at how long the unbleached sponges lasted - a far better alternative than those net scrubby things that never seem to last longer than a few weeks.
That woman's face! it makes me laugh every time I look at that photo! xxx
You could get lost in that rich blue of the sky! I love natural sponges - they do last a LONG time, and I never feel bad throwing them into the compost when they finally crumble. That black cat looks like a skinny version of William. Lovely pics, Vix, thank you so much!
ReplyDeleteI used coconut scorers and cellulose cloths inn the kitchen and love that I can chop them up and chuck them on the compost pile when they've passed their best. I've always fancied a natural sponge but wanted to go to Kalymnos to buy one, I shall have to go back in five years time to replace it! xxx
DeleteMore utterly gorgeous blue photos. Looks like you had a fab time...too hot for me, but perfect for a sun lover. Arilx
ReplyDeleteWe had a fantastic time, just the thing after Glastonbury. It wS hot but the sea breeze made it bearable, mind you, I'm a lizard and love the heat!
DeleteWow! It looks amazing. I love that blue water. Our poor ocean is so polluted, we can't swim in it. You look fabulous, as always.
ReplyDeleteIsland hopping in Greece! Is there anything better? Look at those blue skies.
ReplyDeleteByron seems like a fun boat to be on. It's good you gave in and sang with the others. You only live once! Kalymnos looks like a dreamy place. The little houses are so lovely.
The island seems to have had an interesting history as well. The sponge presentation seems fascinating too. I once bought a natural sponge in Croatia but I haven't used it a lot. I think I found some sponges as a kid, too. I don't remember how I used to use them and if I did.
Oh to spend months isla d hopping around Greece. I didn't want that day to end! I'm loving my natural sponges! X
DeleteLove a good day trip. Especially on a boat! How fun. X
ReplyDeleteIt was a fantastic day! X
DeleteGot stick on an overnight boat once from Genoa to Palermo with a load of Germans. There was a dispute between them and some English passengers over which film to watch during the journey. The captain had to be called to sort it out. The English won! Can't remember the name of the film but it had David Niven and a tiger in it!!Your boat trip looks idyllic and very calming!Thanks for sharing a fab post.xxx
ReplyDeleteHa! Trust our lot to get embroiled in a row! We always seem to get along better with German tourists than English ones! X
DeleteYour summer sea photos are so lovely on a cool New Zealand evening.
ReplyDeleteThanks Julie! X
DeleteYour trip sounds wonderful. I have never been to Greece but now want to go there. Thank you. X
ReplyDeleteLovely to hear from you, Jane! You really must visit Greece, you won't be disappointed!
DeleteI'm enjoying reading this, while sipping on my morning coffee. Yours are the holidays of my dreams. Far away from the crowded beaches and noisy night life. The scenery is simply stunning.
ReplyDeleteYou and Jon should become tour guides. I would happily grab a bag and come with you. Xx
If it wasn't for Bre**it I'd be very tempted yo do just that
DeleteThat barque is jaw-droppingly stunning and so are those seascapes and deep blue skies!
ReplyDeleteWhat an absolute dream of a trip.
That German woman's face had me in stitches, as does the thought of you and Jon singing along to The Macarena surrounded by those Germans and Italians :-) xxx
If you can't beat them, join them although we did draw the line at doing the YMCA dance! X
DeleteA glorious post! My spirit is lifted just seeing the wonderful pics here.
ReplyDeleteThe bored woman is so funny, she has the look of someone who finds knowledge just too much!
Thanks so much, Carole! That woman's expression still has me tittering almost three weeks later!
DeleteLooks a dream Vix - Beautiful - and those sponges reminded me of years ago - I sold them in the shop that I worked in - they were quite expensive - I used a tiny one damp to put my foundation on with x
ReplyDeleteFunnily enough I bought small sponge fir my face. I don't use foundation but thought it'd feel nice with soap and water when I wash my face!
DeleteLooks absolutely stunning, Vix. The three island cruise.... So pleased I put Kos in your mind.. as you do to me with tales of Kefaloni, Corfu and all the other wonderful Greek islands you go to! Hope you took the mozzie bands. Did you get to Kos Town whilst you were there? We travelled over to Bodrum for a day - so close you could see it across the water. Louise (Mids) X x
ReplyDeleteHello Louise! We did go to Kos Town, I've scheduled a post while I'm at Womad all about it. Such a gorgeous place for a wander. Thanks for putting Kos in my mind again, we loved it!
DeleteReally pretty. But one of my mates recently visited KOS and had a bottle of water thrown over her and was told to go home they don’t want tourists. My son left palma early because of the all the trouble. They way they are acting they won’t have any tourists and then they will be bankrupt!! He is now with my parents thank goodness . But then a Muslim attacked him In Manchester of all places and he loves that place! What on earth is going on with the world!
ReplyDeleteWe have problems with Chinese and Americans damaging property and well I can’t tell you what else they are doing! Why come on holiday to damage, steal and cause trouble! I don’t mind them . But one tried to take a picture of willow and I kind of lost it and said I would call the police .
I think the world has gone mad since covid!!
Hello Allie! When we travel we always make sure that the places we stay in are owned by local people and are always made to feel very welcome. I can sort of understand antagonism towards tourists who choose to stay in foreign owned all inclusive resorts which take business away from restaurants and guesthouses - we'd never do that! xxx
DeleteSo glorious to see that blue sea and clear water, and so fantastic excursion!
ReplyDeletebesos
Thanks, Monica! xxx
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