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Kalispera! We're back from the beautiful Dodecanese island of Kos.
Despite the doom-laden travel chaos headlines in the British media, our journey couldn't have been more straightforward. At 3.45am on Wednesday July 10th, Tony dropped us off at Birmingham Airport and, less than 15 minutes later, we'd passed through security and were sitting at our gate waiting to depart. Our return flights (£100 pp), booked through TUI a couple of days after we'd got home from Glastonbury, were on a huge Boeing Dreamliner, which made us feel like we were off on a long haul trip rather than a short three and a half hour hop over to Greece. Absorbed in my book for most of the flight, it felt like only minutes had passed when the pilot announced that we'd arrived at Kos and that the temperature was a sizzling 37°C.
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Our accommodation, which I'd found on Booking.com, included a free airport pick-up and, after getting our passport stamped, we met up with our driver and were dropped off less than fifteen minutes later at what was to be our home for the next seven nights, the bougainvillea adorned Agrellis Apartments in the little fishing village of Mastichari, where we were warmly welcomed by Evangelia, the mother of our host Nikos, and found a selection of local desserts and preserves awaiting us in our room. Although the family have been renting rooms to tourists since 1980, it was the first time they'd advertised on Booking.com and we were their first ever booking!
When we'd visited Kos previously (
HERE) we'd stayed in the south of the island at Kamari on Kefalos Bay and were on the verge of booking a studio apartment in the same area but, after some intensive research, decided on Mastichari
(also called Mastihari) instead.
Following an earthquake which devastated the nearby village of Antimachia in 1926, eighteen families decided to settle in Mastichari, named after the mastic trees that grow in the area. Built on a grid comprising four roads, the village remains the same size almost a century later. Although there's several large AI hotels on the outskirts of the village (be prepared for a 50 minute walk if you're tempted to book), Mastichari itself has no package tourism with the villagers owning all the holiday rentals, ensuring that the money made from tourism is reinvested into the village.
The village is immaculate, the cats are healthy & well-fed and the seemingly endless white sandy beach takes your breath away. The locals couldn't have been more welcoming, always waving and wishing us a Kalimera, a Kalispera or a Kalinikta! whenever we passed by. Mastichari boasts the warmest waters on the island with an average summer sea temperature of 26°C (needless to say, we swam in the crystal clear Aegean every day). Normally we'd lie on the sand but, with the mercury nudging 39°C, we took advantage of the free beach umbrellas and sun loungers offered by the beachfront tavernas.
Pretty much all the food served in the tavernas is grown in the village. On our beach days we'd share a Greek salad, a plate of pitta bread and a couple of large draught Alpha beers at the very reasonable €20. By night we'd order mezzes to share or, when Jon craved something meaty, there were plenty of vegetarian options for me. One evening we ended up with a Greek Salad pizza - it was amazing!
Our nearest taverna, The Traditional House Restaurant, was one of those old-fashioned places where diners are encouraged to go into the kitchen and point at what they like the look of (the food rather than the kitchen staff!). Their Feta moussaka comes highly recommended.
The weather was so glorious we'd not leave the beach until gone 6.30pm and, with everything being so close, we'd be showered, changed and enjoying a rum on our little balcony less than half an hour later, contemplating our plans for the evening.
Our first evening on Kos coincided with the England Vs Netherlands game and, luckily for us, a couple of bars in the village were showing the match. After winning, we reserved the same table for the finals and wore the same clothes but sadly it wasn't to be.
I can't tell you how excited I was to be wearing both this £5 one-shouldered linen maxi and the sequin embellished ombre dress by the mailboxes above (reduced from £225 to £30 in the January sales). Our rubbish summer weather meant both had languished unworn for months. I have to keep going abroad so that I can get my clothes worn.
Despite the diminutive size of Mastichari, there was a great choice of tavernas and bars in the village.
Number One, an adults-only rock bar which opened at 8.30pm every evening was a firm favourite. They served a mean Aperol Spritz.
Forget the sunsets in Santorini, the ones we experienced in Mastichari were spectacular- and we didn't have to compete with a billion Instagram w*nkers barging us out of the way either!
That lunar landscape we're standing on is dried seaweed, the beach is covered in it. (It doesn't smell, it's not slimy and it's rather nice to walk on!)
The Aghios Ioannis basilica in Mastichari was built between 469 and 554 AD, a period of economic prosperity, free from the danger of pirate raids which ravaged the islands from the 7th to the 10th century. Believed to be built on the location of an ancient temple dedicated to Hera.
When we stayed in Kefalos back in 2018 we'd found the public transport quite poor and had to hire a car to see more of the island but Mastichari not only had excellent bus links but also regular ferries and boats to the neighbouring island of Kalmynos & beyond....stay tuned for more.
Hope you're all well and will forgive me for not responding to the comments on my last post. We're racing to get ready for next week's Womad but I'll try to catch up with all that I've missed in Blogland and hopefully publish another post before I go.
Love, as always, Vix xxx
Oh my goodness, the village, your accommodation, the beaches look like some of the most splendid you have ever shared.
ReplyDeleteWhilst you and Jon always look happy to be in Greece when you so generously share all your photos, I don’t think I have seen you both looking so relaxed and chilled.
Welcome back, this will have set you up wonderfully for Womad, xx
Thanks so much! Mastichari was such a good choice, I wasn't at al surprised to chat to people who'd been visiting for over thirty years, it's got such a friendly feel! xxx
DeleteSounds like heaven on earth!! You're so lucky you can take that heat! I'm such a woose when the mercury starts rising!! Love ok forward to reading more! xx
ReplyDeleteIt was fantastic! We were so sad to leave - especially when we went to say goodbye to the lovely woman in our favourite taverna and she started to cry! xxx
DeleteI was looking forward to this post and your Greek adventures. :) Kos looks like a great place to visit. In Croatian, kos is a name of a bird. I wonder if it means anything in Greek. Greece is stunning and the islands are so gorgeous. I'm happy to hear that your flight was short and enjoyable. Flying can be a very comfortable and an easy way to get somewhere. I don't know why people are always going on about how air traffic is bad. Like it would be better if people drove everywhere.
ReplyDeleteYour hosts seem like fantastic people. So cool you were their first guests via Booking.com, even if they have been renting since the eighties.
It doesn't surprise me that nearly all the food served in the tavernas is grown on the island. It is wonderfully sustainable and it must taste divine, too. I do love a nice Greek salad- so great you found good places to dine well...I'd love to try a Greek Salad pizza, too. I'm sure it is lovely.
You even managed to find a rock bar! Mastichari might be a small village, but it seems to have more than enough bars and tavers.
Those sunsets are gorgeous...you're right!...and how wonderful that it is not over touristy. Santorini does look stunning in the photographs, but I personally wouldn't want to go anywhere that trendy. I need some peace and quiet in my free time. I would opt for a non touristy Greek island any day of the week.
Your maxi dress with the ombre sunset effect matches the sunset wonderfully.
I love those photos on the dried seaweed. Lunar landscape indeed!
Your outfits are absolutely perfect. The maxi dresses are simply perfect for Greece. You look like a Greek Goddess.
The white dress with ruffles is so pretty....and I like the two piece (skirt and top) styling as well. So happy you two had such a nice vacation!
Hello Ivana! How interesting about how Kos is the name of a bird in Croatia. Here we have a variety of lettuce known as "Kos" which I believe originated on the island.
DeleteAfter all those years of long haul flights o India, often spending almost 30 hours getting to where we wanted to go, 3 and a half hours feels like a breeze!
I was very happy to find a rock bar, the only downside of European travel is that terrible Europop music they insist on playing everywhere, it sticks in your mind and can't stop playing it. xxx
Love the dresses, especially the gorgeous white/ lemon and the white/roses one. Just my style. The white/lemon one is my favourite. Where do you find such fabulous ones!? Our local chazzers never have clothes like that. Then I suppose where you are there are many more shops to choose from.
ReplyDeleteOh I'm drooling over the lemon one, I so want it!
Jean.
PS. I've just found mailboxes on line. You must spend ages searching to find something that lovely.
DeleteJean.
Thanks so much, Jean! I love wandering around beautiful little boutiques in Greece and Spain and looking at the labels on the clothes, they're often designers that aren't known in the UK so when I search for them on Vinted or on Ebay I can often pick them up for a fraction of the original price.
DeleteAren't those mailboxes lovely? The colour of the paint just shouts Greece to me! xxx
I love the sunset pictures. I love your holiday wardrobe too.
ReplyDeleteGreeks are really known for their hospitality. It can be seen that you had wonderful days.
Xenia - the Greek tradition of hospitality! We're always made to feel so welcome wherevr we go! xxx
DeleteI'm so glad Vich that you had a great time in Greece!
ReplyDeleteI haven't been to Kos yet,
I plan to in the next few years,
but it looks very beautiful!
I love your dresses so much!
I think they go very well with the amazing sunsets!
Have a beautiful Sunday!
Thanks you so much, Katerina! It was fantastic to visit your beautiful country! It was our 20th visit to Greece and it never disappoints! xxx
DeleteVix, you look absolutely radiant and so happy in that sunset photo! Looking forward to reading your next post. X
ReplyDeleteThanks so much, Jess! xxx
DeleteSo pleased you've been to Kos, Vix. We really love it there. It's very easy to make friends with the Greek people. The kind hospitality is outstanding. You are setting us off big time as we are desperate to go back! Louise (Mids) X
ReplyDeleteHello Louise! Ever since you mentioned that you'd been to Kos in a comment a few months ago I've been hankering to return, we loved it the first time. TUI have some great last minute flight deals from BHX so it's definitely worth a look if you can squeeze in another trip to beautiful Greece. xxx
DeleteIt looks like you once again found the perfect getaway. Apart from the temperatures, which as you can imagine are a little hot for me - I'm absolutely loving the look of Mastichari village!
ReplyDeleteThose sunsets are truly spectacular! As do you in those gorgeous dresses which I'm so glad you finally got to wear! That one-shouldered linen one is particularly fabulous! xxx
Hello Ann! Normally I have a fit about wind but was quite pleased to discover that Mastichari was renowned for its breeziness, it was most welcome on the days the temperatures hit 39°C! I love a one-shouldered dress, something that never looks quite as good with a thermal vest underneath at home! xxx
DeleteYou are definitely Living your Best Life, I Love coming along vicariously via your Blog, feels like actually being there... Thank You.
ReplyDeleteThanks so much, Dawn! We're only here once, it seems such a shame to squander what time we have on mundane activities hence the reason the house is in chaos and the garden is a wilderness! xxx
DeleteIf only other people in the world could be as smart and wonderful as these people are. You must have fit right in with the locals. What a beautiful little community and the sunsets, oh my! I'm not well suited for warm weather but I would definitely take my chances to experience this lovely location. Photos are the bomb, as usual, Thanks for sharing. Ranee (MN) USA
ReplyDeleteHello Ranee! Lovely to hear from you. Aren't those Greek villagers inspirational, keeping their village authentic and reinvesting back into the community, if only everyone could be as far-sighted and public spirited! xxx
DeleteYes, you should definitely keep travelling so you can get your clothes worn :) Those dresses are so beautiful, after all.
ReplyDeleteIt looks idyllic, Vix. You and Jon look so relaxed and at home there. Xx
Thanks so much, Jules! I love Summery clothes far more than I do Winter ones, it's so unfair I was born in Northern Europe! xxx
DeleteWhat a glorious and well deserved break. I love all your pictures and what glorious sunsets.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Gisela! xxx
DeleteI loved seeing this!!! It might have to be a future destination for us as we don't like mass tourism areas either! Please can I have a link to your accommodation?? You have my email!
ReplyDeleteWhat is an AI hotel?
You look gorgeous and the views are superb!!! Your new floaty dress is amazing on you.
I detected a very Ann phrase in there with the mercury mention!!! Kezzie xx
Hey up, Kezzie! I'll email you some details when I've been swimming, Mastichari is a lovely place and a brilliant base for exploring more of the beautiful island of Kos. I love how the locals are holding out against mass tourism - I bet parts of Spain wish they'd have been as strong. *AI* is travel forum speak for all-inclusive! xx
DeleteYou really do find the best spots Vix , this looks simply wonderful. Your accommodation, the sunsets and the food all look so tempting - pity Greece is so far away . I am always envious on the cheap air fares you find. Glad you found the perfect spot to show those Smmer dresses , you do live in the wrong climate.
ReplyDeleteW loved Kos when we visited a few years ago but Mastichari was idyllic, the perfect place for a relaxed week between festivals. We're so lucky to have such beautiful places so close to home! xxx
DeleteWhat a heavenly place! Love the seaweed sand and those sunset photos are incredible!
ReplyDeleteAs ever, the people sound so warm and friendly and your meal descriptions make me want to knock up a Greek salad immediately, even though it's only 9 am!
You'll be pleased to know that the forecasters are saying our weather is set to improve by the end of the month. xxx
P.S. Gorgeous one shoulder dress by the way!
The seaweed sand is like walking on a trampoline, it's so bouncy!
DeleteIf it stays like it is for the next week I'll be happy, Womad here we come! xxx
That all looks and sounds amazing, and your outfits just compliment the landscape so beautifully. I would hate the high temperatures (we are such opposite temperature lovers aren't we) but the beaches and locals sound like my idea of a perfect holiday. I should imagine you are now busy restocking Kinky Melons ready for Womad ... a busy week ahead for you both but I hope it goes well.
ReplyDeleteThanks so much, Sue! Oh yes, I'm like a lizard, there's no "too hot" for me although there were a couple of days when we ate our breakfast on the bed rather than in the sizzling 7am heat on the balcony.
DeleteJust cramming the last few bits in my travel bag! xxx
Been
ReplyDeleteBeen? no I haven't! Blogger is doing things all by itself! I have looked forward to this post and it didn't disappoint - what a fabulous place and the idea that the locals are in charge of tourism and that profits go to them and not some big hotel chain is encouraging. Your capsule wardrobe didn't let you down, glamorous in every pic. Betty
ReplyDeleteBeen...that made me laugh!
DeleteWe loved Kos when we went a few years ago but Mastichari was the icing on the cake, it was so relaxed and friendly and the transport links with the buses and boats make it a brilliant base for further adventures. It's really impressive with how the villagers have resisted mass tourism and kept it small and locally owned.
It felt so good to wear some Summer clothes! xxx
There's something about the light in the Med; especially Greece, that I just love. What a beautiful place you chose for your break and it's brilliant you and Jon were the first booking.com customers. You've set the standard extremely high!
ReplyDeleteLovely, lovely dresses and outfits. I am coveting Jon's Mondrian type print shirt and of course all your outfits, too. I have the opposite problem to you. When I go to Ireland in July and August I rarely get the opportunity to wear my summer clothes; they've languished in the wardrobe as Ireland in those 2 months was often too cool. I prefer to go to Ireland in September/October now so I get the chance to wear my summer gear here!
I would love to go to WOMAD...
xxx
Hi Vronni! The light's wonderful in the Med, such a change from the eternal grey skies here. I was amazed that we were Agrillis's first Booking.com customers, I hope we left a good impression!
DeleteSummer clothes are so much better than winter ones, its a crying shame we can't get more wear out of them. I've been optimistic and packed strappy stuff for Womad, I hope I won't be robbing the rails if the weather doesn't play nice.
You ought to come to Womad, we loved it last year! xxx
Oh, I just love your travel posts - that looks like an amazing place, and the light is just gorgeous! Thank you so much for all the pictures! I love seeing your pretty dresses, the delicious food and of course, the cats!
ReplyDeleteThanks so much, Sheila! It was a gorgeous place, so many cats! xxx
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ReplyDeleteTotally in love with that quiet village and the sunset!, and so delightful to see places where locals still own businesses!. Love the food, the cats, the atmosphere!.
ReplyDeleteAnd love your collages with lots of blue details everywhere!, that mailboxes are so cool!-
So fabulous to see you sporting those maxi dresses and looking so gorgeous!. And I'm pointing Jon's shirts to encourage Mr.A. to become a secondhand shopper!
besos