Friday 17 November 2023

Out & About - Revisiting The Shugborough Estate


After a long hiatus we decided that on Wednesday, with a dry day forecast, it was high time we dusted off our National Trust membership cards and revisited Shugborough but we were starting to doubt the Met Office's wisdom when we noticed those ominous looking skies on pulling into the car park forty minutes after leaving home.

The Shugborough Estate, best known as the ancestral home of Patrick, Earl of Lichfield (1939 - 2005), the celebrated British society photographer. Built on the site of a moated medieval bishop's castle, Shugborough was bought by the wealthy Anson family in 1624 for £4,000 (a fortune at the time) but was torn down in 1693 to create a more modest country house. The building was enlarged in 1745 by architect Thomas Wright to create an elegant Georgian mansion.



At the turn of the 19th century, the house was further altered and extended by architect Samuel Wyatt. The pavilions and passages were incorporated into the main building, and a new porticoed entrance front with ten Ionic pillars was created at the east. These pillars resemble carved stone but are hollow timber structures. The hall, as it is seen today, is built in a neoclassical style and encased in slate, sanded to resemble stone.

Thomas Anson (1695 - 1773), who was the great grandson of the original owner, inherited the Shugborough Estate in 1762 from his brother, George who had died heirless. George Anson joined the navy as a 14 year-old boy and rose through the ranks to become the First Lord of the Admiralty. In 1740 he commenced an epic four year voyage circumnavigating the world. On the journey he captured a Spanish treasure ship laden with £400,000, the largest haul ever seized by an English sea captain. 


After Thomas's death, the family fortune leaked through the hands of his grandson, also called Thomas (1795 - 1854), who gambled his vast inheritance away. In 1842 the contents of the estate was auctioned to raise funds. In 1960, in lieu of his grandfather's death duties, the 5th Earl, Patrick Lichfield, gave the Shugborough estate to the National Trust. For many years it was looked after by Staffordshire County Council until the National Trust took over the administration in 2019.


In our excitement to visit we'd made a classic schoolboy error and forgotten to check the opening times and discovered when we arrived that the Hall had closed for the Winter the previous weekend. Oh well, it had only been thirteen months since we'd last been inside and the extensive grounds are always a joy.



The estate is still occupied by the Earl of Lichfield and has a working farm and several varieties of rare breeds of livestock including these gorgeous teddy bear faced sheep which captivate us every time we see them. 




Thomas Anson had been on the Grand Tour as a young man where he'd developed a passion for classical Greek art and commissioned his friend, the architect James "Athenian" Stuart, to reproduce classical monuments in the grounds of Shugborough.



Since we'd last visited Shugborough,we'd visited Athens so were excited to compare the originals with the Georgian reproductions. 


Based on the Horologium of Andronikos in Athens and designed by James Stuart, the Tower of the Winds was completed in around 1765. We visited the inspiration for the Tower HERE


Designed by Thomas Wright in 1750 as a folly, The Ruin was once more extensive, was composed from parts of the original manor house and included a Gothic pigeon house. 



Built around 1760 the Doric Temple was based on the Temple of Hephaistos in Athens, which we also visited earlier this year. 










The main formal gardens consist of a series of four low terraces laid to lawn with a central axial path, laid out in 1855 to a design by William Andrews Nesfield (1793-1881). Clipped golden yews line the path and a further path down the north side of the garden. The boy and swan fountain, 
a replica of Erdmann Theodor Kalide's bronze version created in 1836 for the gardens at Pfaueninsel in Berlin stands towards the west end of the axial path, which ends with a short flight of stone steps down to the River Sow. In the Eighteenth century the area was a bowling green.

The design for the Chinese House was taken from sketches made in Canton by Sir Percy Brett, who accompanied Admiral Anson during his circumnavigation of the globe. It was completed in 1747, making it one of the earliest examples of oriental design in the country and a precursor to the Chinese Pavilion at Kew.


The Pagoda Bridge was built by Charles Heywood in 1813. 




A family stopped us to admire my "fashion" and suggested I pose on the river bank with the Chinese House behind me as my clothes complimented the paintwork. 


I'm wearing a vintage Hindu Kush Afghan dress, an early '70s Anokhi jacket and my Mum's Biba boots.



I never tire of this view, beautiful throughout the year.


Built in the late 1750s, the Shepherd’s Monument takes its name from its central marble relief by Dutch artist Peter Scheemakers and originally formed part of the kitchen garden wall. 


Hadrian's Arch, based on the building of the same name in Athens but with tributes to Thomas's brother George & his wife, who had recently died after he'd commissioned the construction. HERE's Jon & Tony standing in front of the original arch. 


What a view!






The rich certainly knew how to flash the cash back then, give me a repro Greek monument over a designer handbag & Botox any day.


The wrestling cherubs in the formal gardens always make us laugh.



As if we haven't got enough to do at home!


Enjoying the Autumnal colours along the North Walk.
 





The Essex Bridge, a grade I listed packhorse bridge, leads walkers over the River Trent to the nearby village of Great Haywood. It was built by Elizabeth I's favourite, the Earl of Essex who lived nearby, in the late 16th Century.



Along with the house, the old boathouse once stood on an island in an artificial canal which was reached by two Chinese bridges. After the flood of 1795 one arm of the canal was infilled, leaving the House on a promontory.








The walled kitchen garden was built 1805-6 to a design by Samuel Wyatt. In the early 19th Century the garden establishment was highly regarded; in 1817 the prime minister, William Pitt (the Younger) described how the gardens served as 'a kind of Academy for the study of Horticulture, in which young men enter themselves to assist without pay for the purpose of improving themselves, and gaining knowledge in the art'.

The rather imposing Gardener's House, also designed by Samuel Wyatt. I'd happily live here.




Despite those leaden skies, Wednesday turned out to be one of the those perfect, late Autumnal days, crisp, cold and mercifully dry. Here's to lots more National Trust visits over the Winter.

Thanks for reading, see you soon!


40 comments:

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  2. Given the colour of the sky in your second picture if there is a Goddess of Garden Visiting then she was definitely watching out for you both. Looks like a gorgeous wander around even if you could not go inside the main house but I’ll fight you for the keys to that Gardener’s Cottage 😄.
    I had a quick firtle through Google - apparently the scar across the front is all that remains of a glasshouse where they grew peaches & pineapple.

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    1. We were so lucky with the weather! You're quite right, the peach house had a double wall with a chimney so it could be heated, sadly only the wall remains but I believe there's plans afoot for some sympathetic restoration.
      I'll settle for the Tower of the Four Winds if you want the Gardener's House! xxx

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  3. Fabulous post, Vix! I'll leave you and the previous commenteer to armwrestle for the Gardeners House - I want a gothic pigeon house please. How lovely to be admired for your "fashion" - I was told I was looking cosmic today! I love it when folks absolutely get it on the dressing up front :)))

    Elaine x

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    1. Hello Cosmic Lady! It's a deal, you get the Gothic pigeon house, Jayne has the gardener's house and I'll settle for the Tower of the Winds and we'll meet in the hall for drinks.
      I think it's ace when complete strangers take the trouble to pay a compliment for no other reason than to be kind, it restores your faith in humanity! xxx

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    2. That sounds like an excellent plan, and it is always good to know you have lovely neighbours!

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    3. I'll have a word with the National Trust and see if the Earl of Lichfield fancies a house swap. xxx

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    4. Off to buy some gothic pigeons then ... great band name lol

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  4. A wonderfully damp day this was! I love the smell of wet earth and leaves, and that peculiarly pungent smell of antique metal bridges and stonework. Reminds me of childhood walks in an old city park where we chatted with the groundskeepers putting the plants and fountains to bed for the winter. * Do think you'd have enjoyed meeting the sign-writer who invited visitors to take up a rake, and who celebrated a "teeny, weeny seed"! Beth Waltz

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    1. Beth, you're spot on with the smell of antique metal bridges and stonework, all the more pungent on a chilly day. I thought the signwriter's language was very endearing, I almost felt guilty for walking past without grabbing a rake and helping out with the tidying. xxx

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  5. The Chinese House and the Pagoda Bridge look so gorgeous. Your Outfit match well with the colors. Thank you for sharing the wonderful Photos. Happy Weekend

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    1. Thank you so much! Have a wonderful weekend, too. xxx

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  6. What lovely photos you've got! I always enjoy reading about these lesser-known but fantastic attractions in the UK.

    I especially love that photo of you with two tendrils of hair being blown about in the wind. It is so beautiful and obviously natural and spontaneous, not like one of those staged photo shoots where a large electric fan is brought onto the set of a movie to create a stiff wind that makes everything blow sideways in dramatic fashion.

    Emily the Curious

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    1. Hello Emily! I'm glad you liked the post. There's so many grand houses & gardens dotted around the UK and living in the middle we're almost spoilt for choice with interesting places to visit. It's just the weather that hinders us.
      I had to laugh when I saw those photos with my wayward hair, I chased after my hat on several occasions. xxx

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  7. Ah, opening times. We've fallen foul of not checking a few times. The grounds are so beautiful you don't really need to worry about the house though. And you were so lucky with the weather xxx

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    1. I can't believe we didn't check the opening times, we get caught out every year forgetting that a lot of the houses close for the winter. xxx

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  8. I'm so glad the heavens didn't open after seeing those ominous looking clouds. Turning up when the house is closed is something we would do!
    You look gorgeous as ever and those Biba boots are in remarkable condition!
    Those cherubs need to calm down! :-D xxx

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    1. I know, we'd have had nowhere to hide if the heavens had opened and I'd been daft enough not to check the Hall's opening hours!
      I nearly wore my wellies but the Biba boots were just fine. Apparently the grounds had been flooded last week. xxx

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  9. You are an absolute well of knowledge when it comes to describing your travels which makes it so very interesting and brings the past to life. I'm glad that these estates are still available for the public to view. Some folks spent their lives creating these places for so little compensation. I enjoyed the comparison of structures to their Greek counterparts.
    Although we are very different in age, accomplishments and lifestyle, I must say that you inspire me to live true to myself and without apology.
    Thank you so much.

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    1. Hello Rita. Thank you so much for your kind comment, you've made my afternoon! xxx

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  10. That is just stunning and I love your style. The photos capture the beauty of the property perfectly. https://www.bauchlefashion.com/2023/11/why-real-real-is-number-one-place-to.html

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  11. I think you look amazing in this setting, esp in that first picture leaning against the pillar!
    It's a pity the house had closed but the grounds have ample entertainment! I would like to visit this place! I always remember the Earl of Essex (he of the bridge) from the Elizabeth drama watched as a teen!x

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    1. Thanks, Kezzie! I just love the Georgian Neoclassical architecture, there's something so pleasing about the symmetry. The grounds are absolutely fabulous, a wonderful legacy for the Anson family to leave behind. Oh yes, the Earl of Essex was supposedly the heart throb of his day, wasn't he? xxx

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  12. You look so fabulous in this styling. Curls suit you. The vintage styling is gorgeous and looks amazing paired with that hat and those beautiful long curls !
    I love that photo of you next to the colums with the wind playing with your hair.
    I adore your National Trust visits. Their membership card is such a good investment.
    If I lived there, I'd get one in a heartbeat.
    It was a joy revisiting Shugborough with you two.
    As always, thanks for sharing these beautiful estates!
    Their history is always so interesting!

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    1. Thanks, Ivana! I wish I'd been born with curls, mind you it's no hardship to plait my hair before bed every night to get a wave in my hair, it's so boring in its natural state.
      National Trust membership is so good although we've not taken full advantage of it this year, the weather's just been too miserable! xxx

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  13. What a perfect Autumn day you had for your visit to the Shugborough Estate. I wish we had a couple of those during our weekend away, but alas it wasn't to be.
    Stunning photos and ditto outfit: you look absolutely amazing!
    Such a shame the house was closed, but with the weather that gorgeous, surely just roaming those extensive grounds was no hardship! xxx

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    1. Oh no, I'm sorry the weather gods weren't smiling on you for your trip to Bruges. I bet your photos will still be beautiful. xxx

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  14. no crowds, just peace in the heart

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    1. It was wonderfully peaceful, we timed our visit perfectly! x

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  15. Such a lovely estate. You look beautiful.

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  16. It must have been lovely to walk around with no hordes of people. Like you, I learn't the hard way re the National Trust. As a rule of thumb most NT properties shut down at the end of October and reopen the following Easter but the grounds are usually kept open. It's a bit annoying but of course they need to do conservation work etc.

    I loved the Chinese bridge; the Pack Horse bridge and the wrestling cherubs at Shrugborough and yes the Gardener's Cottage looks like a dream home - if only!

    Have a great week,
    xxx

    You looked very chic in your outfit and very autumnal to match the surroundings.

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    1. It would have been nice to see the house - I've only been inside once - but the grounds are so lovely it didn't spoil the trip. There's a few places locally that stay open all year round but I'd neglected to check Shugborough - silly me! xxx

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  17. I love those crisp autumn days, I know them well! Thank you so much for taking me along with you on your wander through the grounds of Shugborough, Vix! I love your "fashion" (hee) and you do look good posed there. I'm smiling from all the beauty!

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    1. I thought of you, your Mum and your recent Autumnal walks when we were wandering around Shugborough! xxx

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  18. I have missed these visits so much. I do love a good winter walk in the park. When we were here in the summer we were shocked by the prices place’s charge, here it is only a couple of pounds to visit some beautiful and well kept gardens and collections.
    We were going to go to Edinburgh zoo in the summer until we realised it was going to cost us over £300 as a large family to get In.
    It’s £6 a person to go to ueno zoo and 8 pounds person to go to sunshine aquarium which is on top of a government building!!
    I feel like when we go back to England it’s getting more and more expensive. We spent a lot last time as I can’t say no to the children. We do find free things for them to do but they are often overrun with parents who have the same idea.
    But I do love your pictures. I keep thinking kids or cats kids or cats. But I love my ever growing family . Your fashion sense is amazing and you and Jon are like gin and tonic .
    Love you Allie jane

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    1. Those prices are utterly mad, Allie! We used to get really frustrated in India where they have a two-tier payment system for residents and foreigners! Jon bought a Lonely Planet "The Best Things in Life are Free" book from the charity shop yesterday with tips for free things to do in tourist hotspots all around the world yesterday, I'll have to look and see what they suggest for the UK.
      I'm cats over kids - although when William wakes me up at 5am demanding breakfast I sometimes wonder if felines are more high maintenance than children! xxx

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  19. You looked very bohemian in your outfit , it’s screams you, I think you were born in the wrong decade . But then you couldn’t publish your fab outfits.
    You and Jon are like a breath of fresh air giving two fingers to the chav fashion that is out at the moment I love it.
    I am glad you are back out visiting the places you love. But why do they have to be so expensive for a large family. We visited one in the summer we tried the group discount but it didn’t work. I had to try it. Didn’t I !
    If they charged less they would get more visitors , that’s what they do in Japan and that’s why we can conserve what we can. It just frustrates me. Sorry for the rant . But you know what I mean it’s like being at a festival lol. Love and hugs Allie jane

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    1. Thanks, darling! I wouldn't have minded being born a decade or so earlier or - even better - having a time travelling device so I could pop back every now and then to see a cool band or to take advantage of the 1970s clothes prices!
      We often say the same when we see the admission prices for some of the Uk attractions, how on earth do families afford them? Have you ever bought one of those two week National Trust passes? Our Belgian friends get them for their annual Uk holidays and it save them a fortune. xxx

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Lots of love, Vix