Thursday 6 January 2022

Winter Walks - Captivating Croome

Having recently visited Broadway Tower, the 18th Century folly commissioned by William George, the 6th Earl of Coventry, we decided that this week's outing should be a revisit to the Earl's former seat, the magnificent Neo-Palladian mansion of Croome Court.

After he inherited the family estate in 1744, George William (1722 - 1809) employed landscape gardener Lancelot "Capability" Brown and architect Robert Adam, the pioneer of Neo-Classical taste in Britain, to transform the old family home into a place of artistry and beauty. The project was finally completed in 1751.


Croome was ‘Capability’ Brown’s first large scale commission and is often described as his 'first and most favourite child'.


The icehouse

The Rotunda






During the Second World War, Croome Court was requisitioned by the Ministry of Works and leased for a year to the Dutch Government as a possible refuge for Queen Wilhelmina of the Netherlands to escape the Nazi occupation.  Part of the Croome estate was also requisitioned and developed into RAF Defford.  In May 1942, the Telecommunications Flying Unit transferred its aircraft to RAF Defford and by 1945 there were approximately 2,500 personnel and 100 aircraft on the station.  The current Croome Visitor Centre and restaurant is housed in the Second World War hospital.

Made from coade, a hardwearing artificial stone, the Sphynxes were installed by architect Robert Wyatt in 1800






In 1948, after the Coventry family fell onto hard times they sold the Court along with 38 acres of land to the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Birmingham.  The mansion became St Joseph's School for disadvantaged boys, run by nuns from 1950 until 1979.












In 1979 Croome was bought by Hare Krishna devotees (reputedly funded by George Harrison) and served as a commune for fifteen years. It was then sold to a succession of property developers but the cost of the upkeep spiralled out of control. 



Sabrina at The Grotto, like the Sphynxes, also made with Coade stone




In 1996 The National Trust acquired the overgrown parkland, embarking on the huge task of restoration then, in 2007, the Croome Heritage Trust bought Croome Court and leased it to the Trust enabling it to open to the public in 2009. The property was repaired to make it watertight and structurally sound and is now in the process of being restored. The National Trust is gradually acquiring some of the original furniture and artworks sold by the Coventry family in an attempt to clear their debts and the house is no longer the empty shell it was when we first visited.


These packing crates contain the original bookcases, newly delivered from the V&A museum and ready for construction sometime this year. Most of the fireplaces are by Robert Adam, miraculously still intact after Croome's chequered history.



Dressed for the Antarctic! Jon's wearing the charity shopped coat he bought the previous day. I've had my Handbag mittens, which are attached to a string worn around the neck, since my first day at school in 1971. My Mum bought them from Baggage & General, Van Allan's accessories department, she liked to buy things I'd grow into! 






The black and white photograph by renowned photographer, Tim Barrow, is Ted, the rebellious 11th Earl of Coventry, who became Britain's first surf champion and died in dubious circumstances (see HERE) in Hawaii in 1997 at the age of 39.







To the left of Croome Court stands the Church of St Mary Magdalene, Croome D'Abitot.


The original church was demolished by William George and replaced by the one that stands today, designed by Robert Adam and completed in 1763. The opulent monuments of the former Barons and Earls of Coventry were brought from the old church, the earliest - in black and white marble - shows the 1st Lord, who died in 1639, reclining under a canopy. 














After almost three hours of walking, exploring and chatting to volunteers & visitors alike, we returned to the warmth of Patrice for a car picnic before the 50-minute journey back home. We do love our winter walks. 

See you soon!


44 comments:

  1. Wow, how did we miss Ted's story?! Fascinating. I always think Croome Park would have been the perfect place to recuperate for injured soldiers. Love the fungi photo and I share your love of an old church yard. It's had such a chequered history hasn't it? Quite bizarre at times. Now, couldn't you have smuggled those flower pot urns out? One each? Perfect winter outfit as ever. I wore a thermal, a jumper and my sheepskin and still felt too cold today. xxx

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    1. I was fascinated by Ted, I shall have to track down that book. He's got a look of Owen Wilson about him, hasn't he?
      Croome must have lifted the spirits of the injured soliders, the view is astonishing from every angle. Clever old Capability!
      There was a pile of hard hats and high viz vests in the basement, I did suggest to Jon that we put them on and walk out with a pot or three and pretend we were workers!
      It's been so cold today, I'm glad that the snow didn't hang around. xxx

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  2. Gorgeous pics, Vix, particularly the doorways and bridge, and so many Sphinx boobies (tee hee!). It makes me happy that so many of these old estates are being restored to their former glory.

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    1. We call those ladies the sexy sphynxes and when we were chatting to one of the volunteers he told us that he does, too. Fancy having such pert bosoms after spending 222 years outside! xxx

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  3. Evening Vix, loved this post and the photos are as always are fab. My, 3 hours walking! No wonder you were wrapped up. Wow mittens since you started school that is amazing. I better away to feed the hungry haords, we love car picnics too something comforting about eating in your own little bubble. Will come back to read more when tea over! Shazxx

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    1. Hello Shaz! I'd forgotten how much I loved Croome, you can walk for miles and never lose sight of that magnificent house.
      I found those mittens when I was clearing out the parental home, I couldn't believe Mum still had them. They're lovely and warm and having that string means I can't lose them!
      Hope the hungry hoards had a tasty tea, we had a hot ans spicy Punjabi paneer tikka to warm us up. xxx

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  4. Talk about chequered history, I'm amazed that anything is still intact. How wonderful that the NT is restoring Croome to its former glory and is gradually acquiring some of the original furniture and artworks. I'm loving the sphynxes, which I'm sure are related to the ones at Hof Ter Linden, my Dad's old haunt, although the Croome ones are a bit more sexy!
    Can't believe you've still got the mittens you wore for your first day of school, and that they still fit you! xxx

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    1. When you posted those sphynxes the other day they instantly reminded me of Croome's Sexy Sphynxes. Fancy having those beauties flanking your front door, you'd have all sorts of strange people hanging around!
      Mum always used to buy clothes we'd grow into, Marcus and I were always dressed in stuff miles too big, much to our embrarrasment! I used to be able to fit my dinner money purse into those mittens, there was so much room in them! xxx

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  5. Hi Vix! I so enjoyed reading and seeing the photos from your latest adventure. I have sure missed following along these past few months. I hope your holidays were wonderful! Happy New Year my friend!

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    1. Happy New Year, Martha! It's lovely to hear from you. xx

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  6. It's amazing for people to have so much money in their family to have a place like then, then lose it all. I regret that we didn't explore the V&A museum 8 years ago, but will again. It sounds like a lot of furniture and pieces landed there. I laugh at clothes to grow into. I had older sisters so my clothes were rarely new as a child and I still passed them down to one more.

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    1. I always find that curious, too. How these familiaes amassed such great wealth and then were reduced to selling off their belongings just to make ends meet.
      To my shame I've never been to the British V&A although I've visited their sister museum in Mumbai. Must be a better tourist at home!
      I'm glad that wearing hand-me-downs didn't put you off secondhand clothes! xxx

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  7. What an interesting history Croome Court has!

    I wondered about the home for disadvantaged boys run by nuns - I wonder if they were as awful as the Christian Brother's; or if they were good to the boys. My mum was taught by nuns and hated them saying they were amongst the most cruel human beings she had ever encountered! I went to school for a brief period in Ireland when I was 7 and did not enjoy my time in school being taught by nuns...on the other hand one of our volunteers is a nun and is one of the loveliest and kindest people I've ever met.

    Hope you're managing to keep warm! Have a great weekend.
    xxx

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    1. It has such a curious history, doesn't it? It's amazing that its still standing.
      We were chatting to a couple of the volunteers for ages and one told us that several of the schoolboys had returnerd to Croome over the years to visit and spoken of how cruel the nuns who taught them were. Your poor mum having to endure that treatment (and you as well).
      Hasn't it been cold? No frost this morning, thank goodness! xxx

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  8. Hello Vix, I love your winter walks too! What a beautiful building. You have amazing historical monuments where you live. This post was so interesting. Such a sad story about Ted. I’m so glad they’re restoring the estate, so beautiful. I’ve been catching up on some of your old posts too. Happy belated Birthday! I love to hear about the things you’re mom would do also. Your Christmas decorations were so pretty! Take care!! xo

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    1. Lovely to hear from you, Cherre! Happy New Year!
      We are really lucky to live in close proximity to so many historical homes. I was fascinated by the story of Ted and his untimely demise. xxx

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  9. what a wonderful blue winter sky!
    the perfect backdrop to that beautiful estate of croome court. gorgeous architecture and how fab that it gets some of the furnishings back..... would have walked for hours in that park too.
    you both know how to bundle up in a stylish way - always love to see your afghan coat. i too still have mittens from my childhood, red ones - but they are a bit snug lately as my hands growed bigger from working on the house and garden.
    got lost by reading the story of the surfing lord.... very sad end though.
    xxxxx

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    1. The sky was perfect! I do love bright, cold days. Despite the cold I was so happy to be outside.
      I love that you've got mittens from your childhood, too. They keep my hands a lot warmer than gloves do and with having that neck string, its easy to take them off and use my camera.
      Wasn't Ted an interesting (and handsome) character? Good for him to escape the stifling traditions of the upper classes. xxx

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  10. ex Hare Krishna retreat made me smile, I paid my fair share of visits to them in London in my teens (until I found out if you join up you have to be willing to have nookee with anyone who asks lol!) Your hat is lovely, that house has some very beautiful features, if only architects did work like this in the modern day :)

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    1. Hi Betty! They always have a pitch at Glastonbury, someof our friends says its great for a free curry if you've run out of cash but I think I'll give it a miss if I have to pay the chef in kind!
      Croome's gorgeous, you can really appreciate the architecture wen the rooms are bare! xxx

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  11. Wow, what an interesting looking place. You and Jon look like you belong there. X

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    1. I wish we did1 I've not found any ancestral link to Croome - yet! xxx

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  12. I guess the string served the purpose as you still have the mittens. That's amazing.
    Beautiful buildings and grounds, I can see why it would have made a good hideout for a queen.

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    1. I know - 51 years is pretty good going, isn't it? xxx

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  13. It was a hippy retreat wow!! Still lovely though. I want to go to fountains abbey but it’s more of a summer thing to do .
    So mum is taking me to a local museum that I love as it has a history of dress display on. I saw the news about the 90cm snowdrifts they are very rare in that area. No trains ran that day. So there you go not only snow stops play in the UK . I am hankering to get home now. Love and hugs

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    1. Can you imagine the fun those Hari Krishnas must have had? Apparnetly they were convinced that Croome was haunted and held seances in the attic late at night, scaring the bejesus out of each other!
      90cm! The Uk would definitely grind to a halt with that much snow.
      I hope you enjoyed the museum visit and that you get to escape these shores soon! xxx

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  14. Mittens on strings, a day out at Croome, blue skies and a car picnic - perfect.
    Much better than covid exhaustion, snow and grey skies.
    Thanks for the spoonful of Tonic that is you two xxx

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    1. I hope you're both feeling better soon. xxx

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  15. We stayed in one of the beautifully converted buildings in the stable block when we went to a wedding near there. We were 6of us including two young children and it was a magical place to stay as we could wander around the grounds I would love to revisit again

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    1. Hello, Helen! How fabulous that must stay have been, the grounds are so beautiful. I love being able to see the house from so mnay angles. xxx

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  16. Perhaps it's the extraordinarily crisp images -- whatever the reason, this seemed like a noisy expedition with gravel crunching, leaves rustling, water gurgling, footsteps echoing in grand rooms. Beautifully photographed!

    I regard memorial statuary as elegies in stone (or coade, must look that up); however, the display of porcelain on glass shelving gave me the whim-whams. There's a similar setup in a museum a few counties away which gives the ladies-in-smocks palpitations every other year when it's time to dust and wipe. There are scarier things than tombstones in some historic sites!

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    1. It was an amazing day, the sky was exceptionally lovely and you're right, the sounds from the water features, gravel and frosty grass were quite the assault on the senses.
      There's a fascinating story behind Coade stone, invented by a woman and virtually indestructable, retaining the crispness of the carving centuries later. Sadly it fell out of fashion and Elizabeth Coade is mostly forgotten.
      That porcelain is sealed behind the glass so I'm not sure if it ever needs dusting. xxx

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  17. Loved reading this - especially the story about Ted. I would love to read that book too. X

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  18. If stones could tell tales! That house must feel like it has seen it all. How grand to have an icehouse as well as sphinxes. Lovely picture of you Vix in the grotto. I am sat here with a hot tea, contemplating braving the sporadic horizontal rain and arctic temperatures... xXx

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    1. Thanks, Lulu! Croome is such a fascinating place, I love it chequered history.
      It's sunglasses and no coat here today, I'll send some sunshine your way. xxx

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  19. What a treat that was ! Thank you. I loved it all, especially the Adams fireplaces. That adorable bridge and what a tree you found. I also loved the paintings. Men looked so splendid in velvet coats. Growing up in the 1900s all the men in my city wore grey. Soooo boring. Why on earth they did that I would love to know. 🥰

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    1. I'm so glad you enjoyed your virtual visit to Croome! It's a magnificent house, isn't it? The fireplaces make me go weak at the knees and you're so right about how fine the gents of the era looked in their velvet frock coats. Most of the men of today seem to have given up in all their layers of grey! xxx

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  20. What a magnificent estate...and it had such an interesting history, from its original owners, to being a possible home for fleeing European royalty in WW2, to Catholic school, to Hare Krishna retreat....this place has seen it all. It's great that the National Trust managed to acquire it and preserve its beauty for generations to come. This National Trust thing sound great, all countries should have something like that.

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    1. It really does have an interesting history. It's brilliant thatthe National Trust has managed to track down some of the original furniture, too. It'll be amazing when it's fully restored. xxx

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  21. Fabulous photos, I love particularly the bridge and that amazing neo-palladian façade, really stunning building!.
    And you look fabulously comfy&cool in your warm clothes, rocking both the sheepskin and the afghan coat!
    Lovely post!
    besos

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    1. Thanks, Monica! Croome's gardens are so lovely, I think the sky really showed everything off to its best advantage, too! xxx

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  22. It's interesting to see things slowly being brought back to the old house. The gardens are going to look gorgeous in summer.

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    1. Its already on the list for a revisit! x

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Lots of love, Vix