Thursday 5 March 2020

Travels in India, 2020 - Namaste, Rajasthan!

  

 We'd been told that a couple of days was more than enough time to spend in Jaisalmer as there wasn't anything to do. Aren't people weird? We ended up staying for five nights!

(Click the photo above to enlarge it - "boring" Jaisalmer in all her golden glory!)


Within the fort walls is a treasure trove of seven interconnecting Jain temples, carved from yellow sandstone and dating back to the fifteenth century.


A religion dating back over five thousand years, Jainism is based on non-violence. Jains lead a vegetarian lifestyle, renouncing the killing of all living beings no matter how small. Jains refrain from eating root vegetables as the plant is killed when the root is removed from the ground, some carry a broom to gently sweep away any tiny creature in their path and others wear face masks to avoid inadvertently breathing in insects.
















The Jain temples are open from 8am to noon daily. Shoes and all leather items must be removed before entering. The entrance fee is 200 rupees/£2 for foreign tourists.


The Fort Palace, the former ruler's elegant seven-storey home, towers over Jaisalmer's town square.


 Much of the palace is open to the general public and the small rooms on each floor give a fascinating insight as to how the residents could spy on the outside world. The doorways connecting the rooms are rather low - not a reflection of the stature of the Rajput leaders but a means of forcing visitors to adopt a humble stooped posture in case the room they were entering contained the royal family.




The Victorian tiles in the collage above are Minton and originated a few miles away from Walsall in Stoke-on-Trent.


The bedroom windows of the Queen's palace (Rani-ka-Mahal) offered the royal women the perfect view of Jaisalmer's annual Gangaur processions in Spring.


Entry to the palace is 500 rupees (approx.£5) which includes a fascinating audio guide lasting 90 minutes. Open from 9am - 6pm daily.


 The 450-year-old Baa-ri-haveli once belonged to the Brahmin priests that advised the maharajah.


We stumbled upon the haveli and museum by accident when we took a wrong turning and at just £1 (including the services of an engaging young guide) it was brilliant value for money although, as you can see, we were persuaded to wear a turban for the duration of our visit (a small price to pay!)




As it only rains four times a year in Jaisalmer there's a profusion of pots enabling as much precious water as possible can be collected & stored.



 The family photos lining the walls gave a tantalising glimpse into the lives of the wealthy, ruling classes in 19th century Jaisalmer. (Click on the photo collages to enlarge them).







 The rooftop offered a great view of the Jain temples.


Jaisalmer fort is packed with cafes, coffee shops, and restaurants all touting for business. I'm sure they're very nice but we refuse to be shepherded into places, preferring to choose somewhere at leisure. Our favourite hangout was this funky little cafe a short walk away from the general hubbub of the fort. We loved how they'd repurposed old beer bottles (and were more than happy to contribute a few more!) 


 Jon's snapping some graffiti on the wall that says, The Plan is No Plan, which sums up our approach to travel!






 The cafe had just opened a shop downstairs, employing disadvantaged women to sew clothes made from recycled sari fabric. There was a tailor on-site offering alterations, bespoke clothing and also an option to dye fabric to customer specifications. 


 It's often remarked that I don't dress like a typical Western tourist eschewing the ubiquitous uniform of puffa jacket, cropped jeans and trainers for vintage dresses and tribal jewellery and many Indians ask if I'm a French or Italian fashion designer or an actress. When we first met, manager Ajay thought I was in the fashion business and asked for my help in writing some signs for his shop to explain what the business was all about. I was more than happy to help for free - although he insisted on giving me a wonderful antique printing block by way of a thank you.


The people of Rajasthan really are wonderful.


 For reasons far too mundane to explain, we missed the long-distance bus we'd booked from Jaisalmer to Jodhpur to catch our flight down to Goa. When Jon asked the manager of the Toyko Palace to arrange a driver to take us to Jodphur Airport at 4am the following morning, he insisted on driving us there himself (a nine-hour round trip!) The hotel manager was as bewitched as we were by the sunrise over the Thar Desert and the multiple peacocks by the side of the road, even stopping at a Hindu temple to give thanks for Rajasthan's beauty. When we reached Jodhpur he bought us roses as a reminder of our journey. 


Our ten days in Rajasthan were truly magical and, although Jodhpur stole our hearts, our time in Jaisalmer was pretty special, with grand Havelis and palaces, ancient forts and temples and, of course, a night in the desert, it certainly wasn't boring.

See you soon!

For more photos see HERE.

44 comments:

  1. I'm loving those turbans! The cafe looks perfect. Best again though that Jain architecture, I really love it its stunning. I went to a Jain wedding in this country once, it was wonderful but how fantastic it would have been in one of those temples. xxx

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    1. Lazy people's turbans - already tied - but perfect for keeping my unruly hair in place when we climbed on to the roof!
      A Jain wedding? I bet that was a wonderful experience. The temples were breathtaking and the priests were a lovely, jolly bunch more than happy to have their photos taken! x

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  2. Wow, what stunning architecture. I love the story about you helping the shopkeeper with the signs. And the manager driving you to the airport - now that is some spectacular customer service!

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    1. I'm so glad we ignored those people who told us Jaisalmer was boring!
      I still can't get over the generosity of that hotel manager, what a hero. x

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  3. That golden glow from the stone of the buildings is really special, and a really welcome sight on a dull, wet, British winter day!

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    1. Hi Fran! It's hard to imagine that warmth and beauty on a day like today! x

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  4. Wow! How lovely to travel and find kind souls. Thank you for bringing us all along.

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    1. My pleasure, Sam! Thanks for reading! x

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  5. What a gorgeous panorama that rooftop offered! With such a plethora of architectural and decorative delights, I can well understand you stayed for 5 nights. Those yellow sandstone Jain temples are amazing, as is that palace. I love how you stumbled upon Baa-ri-haveli quite by accident, and you and Jon are definitely rocking those turbans. The funky café looks delightful and you must have been honoured that Ajay asked for your help and advice! I've been thoroughly enjoying your trip so far, so keep your post coming! xxx P.S. Oh, that photo of that peacock!

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    1. We got lucky with that rooftop - we were in the Palace Museum and a guard gestured to us to limbo under the rope and climb a hidden staircase - no other tourists were allowed up there! VIP treatment at all times. x

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  6. Oh how lovely those buildings are! The colour of the stone, the design, the carvings...and I just loved the pots waiting for rain!

    Both you and Jon look so fetching in your turbans and the cafe looked fabulous - you chose well!

    Onwards!

    Hope you have a fab weekend.
    xxx

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    1. Thanks, Vronni! That golden sandstone makes Jaisalmer look so sunny and welcoming, such a glorious sight. x

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  7. You look stunning in that dress-- what a wonderful city. Probably tons of veggie options for you!

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    1. Thanks, Becky! The veggie options are so good and widely available, I don't need to sit in some annoying hipster joint to eat! It's spoilt me for travelling anywhere else in the world! xxx

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  8. oh the treasures! and the lovely people!
    your photos touch my heart. i´m swooning over the beauty of jaisalmar - the temples & palace & havelis..... and reading about all the gorgeous residents make me dream of a better world.......
    you look absolutely gorgeous in your dresses - no wonder people think that you are a celeb!
    xxxxx

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    1. Thanks, Beate! I was often moved to tears by how kind and welcoming the people we met were, nothing was too much trouble. It does restore your faith in human nature. x

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  9. What a gorgeous place, such beauty. I imagined a UK hotel manager's response to a guest who needed help! A shrug? An over-priced taxi? India really does blow my mind!

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    1. Hi Carole! The Indians have a saying "A guest is like a god" and it's so true, nobody can do enough for you or expect anything in return! xxx

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  10. *sigh* it's just all so inviting and beautiful, and awe inspiring.
    xx

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    1. It's hard to believe we were actually there looking at the current weather outside! x

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  11. All the golden sandstone temples and palaces just make the city of Jaisalmer glow. So much detail everywhere you look! How do the townsfolk manage with only 4 x yearly rain? I've never heard of Jainism; the thought of people treading on this earth so respectful of all life is so humbling. As for the Manager of the Tokyo Palace - that kind of service is unheard of. I'm sure people are bedazzled when they come across you with your gorgeous outfits. All your shots are beautiful. Jon scrubs up cool too. That was really kind of you to help that stall holder. Loving your travelogue, keep it coming.

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    1. I know! Until the introduction of mains water the people of Jaisalmer used to have to make a 12km round trip to collect water - how they coped I'll never know! xxx

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  12. I am learning so much from reading about your fascinating travels and your accompanying photographs are amazing. Stunning colour, scenery and architecture. X

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    1. I'm so glad you're enjoying the travel posts, Jules! x

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  13. That sounds a marvellous place to visit. I am glad you told me more about Jainism as I have always meant to find out more! It's so lovely that you were able to help that shop owner! What a great business! You do look like a star so I am not surprised!
    Love Jon's stripy socks and the turbans look really cool!
    You meet some wonderful people on your journeys. What a guy that hotel owner is!

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    1. Jainism seems such a welcoming religion. I was surprised that the priests were happy for us to photograph them without expecting a donation. xxx

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  14. Wow, what beautiful sights and people. Ajay looks lovely. I wonder what you'll make with your printing block? X

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    1. Jaisalmer was so beautiful.
      I use my small printing blocks quite often but I need a project to utilise the larger ones although they do look lovely just as display pieces. x

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  15. What a pretty place - slightly distracted by 'that dress' lol! it certainly looks great with the backdrops. I am going to follow your example on future holidays, my beige cropped jeans are on ebay now and I am out hunting for maxi dresses - it has occurred to me they are probably great for keeping mosquitos off in the evenings as well as looking elegant all day :) Kind of you to help the shop owner, leaving some good Karma.

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    1. I didn't expect to be able to wear that dress until we reached Goa but the day time temperature climbed a few degrees on our penultimate day so it got a welcome airing! x

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  16. I don't know how you finally dragged yourselves away from there-all those carved temples would keep me occupied for months. Thank you for taking us along for your trip-I know I'll never get there on my own, but really enjoy learning about all the cities you visit each year.

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    1. They were absolutely lovely. I've become such an expert I was able to point one out to our guide when we went on a walking tour of Mumbai a few weeks later! x

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  17. The architecture is stunning - I see why you wanted to take a few days to explore the city. How wonderful that you were able to help that man describe his business - of course he would think you were a film star or fashion designer. You have quite a nice collection of printing blocks now.

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    1. I have a growing collection of printing blocks, one day I shall get round to using the bigger ones! x

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  18. I love that first panoramic shot of you and the city- so beautiful. You should have it framed. I don't blame you wanted to stay there for five days. It is a stunning place. I heard about Jainism, an ancient Indian religion that is all about non-violence, but I haven't seen their temples, so thank you for taking us along. Their temples are so beautiful. The architecture is so awe-inspiring.

    You definitely don't look like a typical tourist and I'm not surprised your fabulous sense of style gets you compliments. Vintage clothes are always more unique and when you wear something you really like it shows. So nice of you to translate for that shop owner, he looks like a very friendly fellow indeed. I also liked the museums you visited. You and Jon look quite stylish sporting those turbans. Another great travelogue! Thanks for sharing and have a great week ahead.

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    1. Jain temples are breathtakingly lovely, the carving is so intricate and beautiful. xxx

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  19. Thank you so much for this wonderful trip to India, Vix! I love hearing about how the locals react to you in your vintage clothes - you must be such an anomaly. Amazing pictures, architecture, and scenery. Welcome home!

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    1. Thanks so much, Sheila! Yes, I'm a freak when it comes to my travel wardrobe and long may it stay that way! x

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  20. woww, I'm loving every picture of the Fabulous Architecture, the details and the interiors!, everything is breathtakingly beautiful!.
    And you totally rock in your delightful maxi dresses, so no wonder that people think you're a Star!. Love this little hippietastic cafe you found (out of the beaten path!) and love that you found so many kind people. This is something really heartwarming!
    besos

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    1. Thanks so much, Monica! I thought I'd extend my travel adventures, there's nothing but bad news around at the moment! xxx

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  21. How could anyone possibly think that Gorgeous City was boring, the Magnificence of the Architecture is sublime! During these times of bad news I am immersed in your fabulous adventures in India, the people, along with the sights, are wonderful, it's heartwarming!

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    1. It's lovely to hear from you and I'm so happy my posts are giving you a welcome distraction from all the doom and gloom surrounding us at the moment! xxx

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  22. Jaisalmer looks incredible. And all those 'most people only stay xx days things...' - well, that's because most people do "tickybox tourism" and go to see the places they're told they should see, rather than just stopping andf being somewhere.

    Is there a river through the city? Where do they get their water?

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    1. Tickybox tourists - they're as annoying as bog roll hoarders and the idiots who won't stay indoors!
      There's a lake 3km from the fort walls - until fairly recently the poor women had to walk it twice a day! There's mains water now but it's very sporadic and tourists are advised to stay outside the fort so they don't deprive the residents. xxx

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Lots of love, Vix