Wednesday 19 February 2020

Travels in India, 2020 - The Blue City of Jodhpur, Part 1


 We left Walsall on 14th January, 2020 and three flights, two taxi rides and twenty-three hours later we were in the northwest state of Rajasthan, in the midst of the heaving bazaar of the legendary Blue City of Jodhpur.


As always, our arrival into India was a total assault on the senses, the aromas of cow dung, incense, roses, and wood smoke hung heavily in the air whilst a cacophony of car horns, Bollywood filmi music, and bicycle bells assaulted our ears; we feebly attempted to shrug off the motley assortment of beggars, pariah dogs and touts desperately vying for our attention whilst avoiding treading in the open sewers running parallel to the curb on which we stood. Before too long a tuk-tuk pulled up, we threw our bags inside, wedged ourselves on top and gave the driver our destination address. As the driver bumped his way through the tangle of twisting Medieval lanes, many little wider than the tuk-tuk itself, swerving to avoid cows, goats, immaculately sari-clad ladies and groups of chai-drinking men clustered on street corners shrouded in wool shawls and exotically tied turbans, we wondered how we'd ever find our way out of our lodgings once - or, if ever - we'd found them.





Just when it felt that we were never going to find our destination I spotted the familiar green gates of the 250-year-old heritage haveli I'd seen pictured online (and fallen in love with) three months ago. We handed the driver a 100 rupee note (approx. £1), squeezed ourselves out from the confines of the tuk-tuk and entered what was to be home for the next five nights.


I still can't believe this beautiful heritage house cost us £15 a night with breakfast included! Link HERE.





  A smiley man gestured for us to leave our bags in his care and to climb the stairs to the roof where we were warmly greeted by hotel manager Vikram who directed us to a table and served us sweet masala chai accompanied by Marie Gold (the equivalent of Rich Tea) biscuits while we caught our breath - although we were breathless again within seconds when we looked out over the rooftop and took in the spectacular view of the imposing Megaranth, said to be the finest fort in all of India.


Chatting to Vikram and the gentle heat of the midday Rajasthani winter sunshine, the day-long journey started to take its toll and we could both feel our eyes closing and struggled to stifle yawns. We were shown to our room where our bags were already waiting, closed the door, pulled off our boots, threw ourselves on an inviting-looking antique bed and caught up on some sleep.


A couple of hours later we were refreshed, wide awake and ready to brave the maze-like city streets to explore the fort - which wasn't as tricky as we'd initially feared. On the climb uphill we were stopped by an elderly couple lounging on the doorstep of their tiny home, both fascinated by my jewellery and the vintage Indian kaftan I was wearing. Of course, this being the country we know and love we were soon beckoned inside to be shown the prized family photograph album. No wonder it always takes us ages to get anywhere in India.


Promising to drop by the next time we passed, we continued on up the hill to the magnificently muscular Mehrangarh Fort. Standing 120m above Jodhpur's skyline it was built in 1459 by Rao Jodha, the chief of the Rajput Rathore clan. We explored the museum - the fort's former palace - and marveled over the splendid Rajput architecture and opulent decor (and needless to say, I fell wildly in love with the beautiful 18th century Indian textiles on display). The network of courtyards and halls feature carving so fine that it looks more like sandalwood than soapstone.
















The sun was starting to set as we left the fort. On our descent, we popped into a tiny hole-in-the-wall shop just outside the fort walls to buy a bottle of India's cola, Thums-Up (to accompany the rum we'd bought with us) which causing much amusement to the shopkeeper who called her entire family inside to giggle at the strange goras (Hindi for fair-skinned people) on the premises. Back at the Gouri we piled on the layers (Rajasthan's winter evening temperatures are pretty similar to those in the UK minus the luxury of central heating), unpacked our bags and poured ourselves a drink before heading upstairs to Indigo, the Gouri's rooftop restaurant for dinner and to once more marvel at the mighty Mehrangarh.


With thirty-five nights ahead of us, we decided to go to bed early which was just as well, the drums from the Hindu temple and the mosque's call to prayer awoke us shortly after dawn and by 8am Jodhpur's marching band had struck up directly below our bedroom window....more about that in my next post.



See you soon!

Find my entire album of Mehrangarh Fort and Gouri Heritage Haveli photos HERE.

74 comments:

  1. In a word WOW! I love your blogs these photos are stunning as always x

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  2. Love the blue heritage haveli where about's on line did you come across this? We are hoping to plan our own trip to India next year and this looks perfect.

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    1. Hi Julie! I found the Gouri Heritage Haveli after a random search, they did have a website but I can't find it now. I've added a link to Booking.Com but booked through Agoda as the rates were cheaper. Feel free to email me if you need any links or advice - happy to help! xxx

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  3. The blue city is absolutely gorgeous! So glad to see you safe and sound back home again. What a lovely place you stayed, great find

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    1. We really liked Jaipur, Rajasthan's pink city, last year but absolutely loved Jodhpur, she's the quiet and classier older sister. We'd got back in a heartbeat! xxx

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  4. Haha I was just thinking about you this morning! Dang more amazing photos. Can't wait until the next post. $15 a night????????????????

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    1. I know - the price was crazy especially when the place next door - same street, same view - cost £410 a night! xxx

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  5. It looks absolutely stunning, Vix, especially the Mehrangarh Fort, both day and night time views. I've yet to travel anywhere like this but I can keep on dreaming. Until then I will enjoy it vicariously through you, and look forward to the next instalment. X

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    1. Hi Jules! One day you'll do your travelling, I'm sure of it. Rajasthan is particularly wonderful at this time of year, I wouldn't fancy climbing up to Mehrangarh in the blistering summer heat! x

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  6. Hi Vix, came across your blog by chance and absolutely loving it. I was born in Derbyshire but have lived in Barcelona for the last 35 years. Love Reading about your travels and looking at the fabulous photos. Can't wait for the next installment!! Best wishes, Diana X

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    1. Hello Diana, how lovely to hear from you. Barcelona? I'm green with envy, it's the first foreign city I ever visited (back in 1987 when I was 21) and instilled in me a lifelong lust for travel. xxx

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  7. Welcome back! I do hope it wasn't too much of a shock ... That tuk-tuk ride sounds quite adventurous: what a way to arrive at that delightful haveli which, in contrast, must have been pure bliss. And then having such a fabulous view as well! What a magnificent place Mehrangarh Fort is, and I can only imagine you having problem tearing yourself away from all that splendid architecture and gorgeous textiles. Can't wait for your next intallment! xxx

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    1. Thanks, Ann! Returning to Waterworld (aka The UK) was a bit of a shocker, we rarely go online when we're away so had no idea about all the flooding! xxx

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  8. Huzzah! Vix is back from her travels and ready to tell us about it! Seriously, your India trip posts are always a welcome splash of color and light in a dreary Upstate NY winter. Looking forward to the next installment!

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    1. Hello, lovely lady! So glad you're enjoying the holiday spam! I must admit that looking back at the photos and re-reading my journal is helping add some warmth and colour to a rain-sodden and grey UK day! xxx

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  9. this morning i thought of you.....
    and here you are - starting with photos from a fairytale palace! swooooon*******
    welcome back - dear vix!
    xxxxx

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    1. Thanks, dear Beate! I hope it rekindles happy memories of your travels. xxx

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  10. Wow, it looks stunning! I love reading your India posts each year, can't wait for more!
    Welcome back!

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    1. Loving the new blog name! Lovely to hear from you! xxx

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  11. Replies
    1. They don't call it Incredible India for nothing! xxx

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  12. Amazing photos, of you too! <3 I've avoided India because of all those suffering people and animals, might be too much for me. But I'm glad you had a positive experience. My aunt has lived in Nepal for many years and wish to go to Nepal or Bhutan one day.

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    1. Thank you! Please don't be put off by poverty and suffering, India is bewitching, wonderful and incredible. We support a number of Indian based animal charities and always book a tour with Reality Gives, a not-for-profit organisation that plough 80% of their profits to help the urban poor. xxx

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  13. You sparked my interest in the Pink City, now I am going to be obsessed with the Blue City! I have been so looking forward to reading about your latest adventures... you looked beautiful in your vintage kaftan dress, your first night accommodation looks so much fun. Can't wait for more.

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    1. Betty, you would love the Blue City, it's Jaipur's elegant, classier big sister! We're both keen to go back already! xxx

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  14. The haveli looks beautiful and what a view of the Megaranth. I wouldn't so much love the early wake up call!
    The ornate architecture is a feast for the eyes, what a great start to your holiday xxx

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    1. I'm notoriously badly organised when it comes to planning for our Indian adventures but when I spotted that haveli and saw the price I knew I had to book it immediately.
      The joys of Indian cities, nobody understands what a lie-in is! xxx

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  15. Absolutely beautiful! I love reading your posts from India. It's almost like being there!

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    1. Hi Cynthia and thank you for allowing me to indulge myself. Writing about our Indian adventures makes our trip last that bit longer! xxx

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  16. Wonderous, everything! Looking forward to more. x

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  17. Stunning. All of it. Just stunning. Zxx

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  18. Thank you so much for this wonderful post. I enjoy travelling with you 😁

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    1. Thanks, Tina! Lovely to hear from you! xxx

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  19. A marching band in the morning! That...would not go over well with me! Vix, such a wonderful post! Thank you for sharing your journey!

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    1. Only in India, eh? Jon's not a morning person so it didn't go down well with him either! xxx

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  20. Welcome back! The first photo of you standing in that doorway in your beautiful dress is such a perfect way to start your first blog on India. Thankyou for the tour. Your summary of the hustle and bustle of your arrival is so amusing - loved all the details. The Gouri heritage haveli looks so beautifully exotic and what a breathtaking view of the Megaranth Fort! Bless your adventurous spirit and can't wait for the next instalment. Have a great weekend.

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    1. Lovely to hear from you, Suzy! I'm a sucker for an old doorway, my camera is full of doors and cats every time I go on a trip! xxx

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  21. I've been following your blog for three or four years now, and I always look forward to your annual Indian adventure. Your accommodation is absolutely glorious! And I think India must truly be the most colourful country in the world - everything about it is vibrant and saturated.

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    1. Hi Fran! I know this weather doesn't help but the UK doesn't half feel grey and gloomy after 5 weeks in India! xxx

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    2. Oh, I bet! It's been bad enough for those of us stuck here, but it must be the ultimate comedown after coming home from such a spectacular trip.

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  22. What stunning photos! The fort is magnificent and lit up at night is a most wonderful sight. I wonder you had the energy to climb up to it after that long journey...the detailed interior was beautiful but don't you find that all detail overwhelming? I certainly do and noticed it particularly in Bulgarian churches and Italian churches and municipal buildings. It physically tires me out trying to absorb all that detail.

    I'm looking forward to the next instalment...

    Hope you're acclimatising back to our grey wet and windy weather!
    xxx

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    1. The climb was a bit of a killer, I was quite happy to sit and chat to that couple just so I could get my breath back.
      I know what you mean about absorbing all that opulence, it can be overwhelming. I take photos and read up on the places we've visited afterwards, I can take it all in a lot better. xxx

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  23. wowwww, so fabulous to see you back with lots of pictures to show and adventures to tell us!. Your posts make me feel so enthusiastic!!!
    besos

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  24. I tried commenting yesterday not sure if my comment went through. Anyhow, that heritage site you stayed in looks so beautiful. So clever of you to have found it and it's great it is both affordable and there's friendly staff. A triple win.
    The blue city of Jodhpur looks like a great place to visit....and that palace fortress simply takes my breath away.

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    1. Jodhpur really did capture our hearts, we really struck it luck with our choice of accommodation, too. x

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  25. You’re back!!! I have been missing your blog posts and am eager to read your tales of adventure.

    The Blue City looks interesting – I like when cities get on board with a colour scheme. Also, the photo with the stain-glass window is just gorgeous, I imagine your eyes were overwhelmed with so much to see and take in. X


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    1. Thanks, Jess! All that beauty is rather overwhelming, I'm glad I took so many photos so I could study all the little details at leisure once I got home. xxx

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  26. Welcome home , I am so enjoying reading about your India travels and seeing all your gorgeous photos. The fort looks truly spectacular. I am with Jon on the heights thing but what a shot, brave you. Your accomodation looks lovely , small is so much better than a conventional boring hotel. Your look so happy in that first shot, back in your special place. xx

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    1. Thanks so much, Jill! Writing about my travels certainly helps combat those bac-at-home blues! xxx

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  27. Welcome Back! I was so happy to see your first travel post up on the blog. I don't think I will ever experience India first-hand but I love your photos and stories about your adventures. That haveli is lovely, and what a bargain! The architectural details on the fort are amazing.

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    1. Thanks, Shelley! We really did get lucky with our choice of accommodation, it was gorgeous! x

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  28. Ooooh I have been waiting for your India posts. I saw you had posted but I've saved them to read in peace over a late breakfast which I am doing now.
    Gorgeous images as always Vix.
    Hugs-x-

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    1. Hope you're enjoying the posts, Sheila. I follow a few travel blogs and love reading them in one go! xxx

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  29. I’ve waited for the right time to read about your latest adventures so that I could give it my full attention and not was it worth it.
    I linked across to the hotel you stayed in and it’s amazing. It’s hard to believe the price isn’t it.
    Off to to read your next post now xxx

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    1. I still can't believe our luck finding the Gouri - Vikram and his friends have run the restaurant for the last 12 months but have only just taken over the hotel part of the business, they're already one of the top rated places to stay in Jodhpur! xxx

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  30. I have been very much looking forward to reading your travelogue and have finally found a moment to do so! I love the sound of Jodhpur, it looks like an Indian version of Spain's Grenada with the imposing fortress up on the hill, kind of like the Alhambra. Your descriptions are brilliant too. Open sewers though, gosh that must be stinky!! x

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    1. That's a great comparison! Jodhpur was amazing, beautifully restored and wonderfully authentic.
      The sewers are fast flowing so believe it or bot the city was quite sweet smelling - phew! xxx

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    2. That's good to hear about the sewers! I've got a friend who's in Jodhpur at the moment - they're staying at the same haveli you did!!

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    3. What a coincidence! I hope they have as much fun as we did. x

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  31. Phew! Glad you found your accommodation! It looks gorgeous and very reasonable! Your noisy wake-up reminds me of the cacophany which was waking up in Solo, Java- chickens and the muezzin singing the call to prayer!

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    1. I remember how noisy it was in Bali - a small price to pay for staying in such a fab place. xxx

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  32. The India blogs are here! Just what I need xx

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  33. Oh that looks utterly lovely! The silver lion chair intrigues me - I'm always fond of lion sculptures and he's a very good one. The whole place is beautiful though. And you look so happy and pretty; India suits you.

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    1. I loved the fort, I was hoping to visit it a second time before we left Jodhpur but it was not to be - a great excuse for a return visit!
      My brother loves lion sculptures, too. The silver chair was used for transporting the royal children around the streets of Jodhpur - they had a peacock one, too! xxx

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  34. I've spent all Morning catching up in your Blog Archives of your Travels... it's all been mesmerizing and I feel as though I'm there on Vacation with you! Thank You for Sharing this sublime experience! It's no wonder you've made it a destination for years!!!

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    1. Thank you so much for reading and commenting on my travel ramblings. xxx

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  35. Wow !! Awsome and Some Exotic Content you have thanks For Sharing With us
    Turban Soul

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Lots of love, Vix