Last Thursday Liz and I caught the bus over to Birmingham.
We wandered down the magnificent Great Western Arcade...
And popped into 200 Degrees, opposite the cathedral, for a fancy coffee.
I'd booked tickets for The Pen Museum in Birmingham's historic Jewellery Quarter which you may remember Nikki and I visiting earlier this year. Liz loves pens and all things calligraphy so she was keen to see it for herself.
At its peak Birmingham was home to over one hundred pen factories manufacturing 10,000 varieties of pens and employing over 8,000 people with women making up over 75% of the workforce.
In the 19th century three-quarters of everything written down in the world was written with a pen made in Birmingham - get your head round that!!!
The Pen Museum is housed within a former pen factory, The Argent Works, built in 1863 in the Italianate style, on Frederick Street.
The Industrial Revolution created a demand for affordable writing instruments. Birmingham's manufacturers were the first to adopt steel nibs, which were more reliable than the traditional goose quill pens and, from the mid to the late 19th Century, the city dominated the world's production of pens. It was estimated that three-quarters of the world's pens were made in Birmingham and the mass-production of pens which made them affordable to all, significantly impacted on the rise of global literacy in the 19th Century. By the end of the century the number of pen manufacturers in Birmingham declined to just twelve and, after WWII, the mass market success of the ballpoint pen made traditional pen nibs obsolete.
The female press operators were expected to produce a minimum of 14,000 nibs per day with fines incurred for less than perfect nibs and also for eating, drinking, toilet breaks and even singing during their average 12 hour working day.
Like The Coffin Works (HERE) and The Silver Factory (HERE), the Pen Museum doesn't gloss over the hardships Britain's working classes endured, it's so important we're reminded of how awful the days were before Health and Safety regulations and Trade Unions.
Liz's is the parsnips, mine's the sword.
There's a fascinting video as well as some recorded conversations with several nonagenarians who worked in Birmingham's pen factories in the 1930s and 1940s.
And like last time, we had a go at making our own nibs.
After having our handwriting analysed, we ransacked the fabulous (and very competitively priced) gift shop.
By now we were ravenous so headed to the pub opposite, The 1000 Trades.
Birmingham has been known as The City of A Thousand Trades since the 19th Century from the wide range of skilled manufacturing industries including metalworking, guns, jewellery and - of course - pens!
Lunch was a Med Veg Posh Sandwich (menu HERE) served with vegetable crisps and homemade coleslaw along with the most delicious Goat's Milk IPA (don't worry, it wasn't really made with milk!)
We wondered if the saying, His Nibs, originated in Brum? I'll have to ask next time I visit.
The Pen Museum opens on Thursdays, Fridays & Saturdays from 11am - 4pm and on Sundays from 12pm - 4pm.
There's currently a Two for One deal if you book online so we paid a total of £8.50 - an absolute bargain! See HERE.
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I mean, how dare women go to the toilet during the working day!
ReplyDeleteAnother fascinating visit. And I love your calligraphy. I'm always in awe of people who write beautifully - my own writing is just about legible. Xx
I know - singing, going to the loo and drinking tea - I'd have ended up being in debt to my employers if I'd been born 100 years earlier! xx
DeleteAbsolutely fascinating. I'm putting it on my places to visit list. I have some beautiful glass pens and jars of coloured ink.
ReplyDeleteThe packaging back then was so beautiful, so much pride in everything! x
DeleteI LOVE your Midlands excursions, I’ve literally just done Birmingham Medicine Bakery - Ozzy Osbourne exhibit - The Indian Brewery tour, after your blog post recommendation. This’ll be my next reccy! Thanks Bab!!! (This is Sophia, sorry I can’t be arsed to log in)!!
ReplyDeleteHow ya doing, bab?! Hope you've had afabulous birthday and I'm delighted that you enjoyed Ozzie and the Indian Brewery. The Pen Museum is so interesting and so close to the Coffin Works and the Silver Factory if you fancy making a day of it! xxx
DeleteLovely to see you both brightening the streets of Birmingham. Fascinating place to visit as well. Sending our love xxx
ReplyDeleteMuch love to you both from us! xxx
DeleteWow, such a wonderful post of history and a look back at the test of times. Amazing work that so many survived. I have to wonder if this generation could stand an hour of it and then be ready to protest. Wonderful exhibit. I love the quotes. I had often wondered of these 'nibs'. Thank you so much for the wonderful write up and photos. Love the outfits you both wore 💗💗💗💗💗💗💗Thanks for being here and thank you for your comments!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Ellie! xxx
DeleteGracefully! So many amazing vintages stuff to find.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Lea! x
DeleteFound this post so fascinating. The social history is mind blowing,how young they were. The production of over 18,000 a day is outstanding. Birmingham has such a wonderful history. Is there a new exhibition about the trades of Birmingham, I think I saw it on the news? Liz and yourself looked equally glamorous and your lunch looked very lush.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Carole! i wonder if that's something to do with the reopening of Art Gallwry and Museum? I shall investigate further. I love how Birmingham honours its industries and the working classes who made it so wealthy. xxx
DeleteFound this about the saying His Nibs : especially in His Nibs "boss, employer, self-important person," 1821, of unknown origin; perhaps a variant of nob (n.2) "person of high position." And since that plaque says he 'opened' a works, that would fit, lol. Always enjoy your trips around the cities, countries! Dawn P. Albany, GA USA
ReplyDeleteIts always lovely to hear from you, Dawn! That's so interesting about "his nibs", we often use to expression to refer to William when he's being demanding, thanks for the info! xxx
DeleteHow fascinating. Thanks for taking us on a tour.
ReplyDeleteMy pleasure, glad you could join us! x
DeleteI loved joining you and Liz on your visit to the Pen Museum, which I'm as impressed with now as I was when you visited with Nikki. Totally my kind of museum! My mind boggles at those women having to produce 14,000 nibs per day :-o
ReplyDeleteYour lunch is looking mouthwateringly delicious, and I am loving that photo of you and Liz at the end. Both of your outfits are to die for as well, I'm swooning over Liz's green maxi! xxx
Its such a fascinating place, Ann. Until earlier this year I had no idea that so many had originated in Birmingham although Liz and I's pen of choice was he Shaeffer No Nonsense which was American. I tried to find one a couple of years ago but they're really collectable these days and quite expensive. xxx
DeleteYour report on this expedition inspires me to upend the contents of my art supplies cabinet and have a closer look at those old pen nibs purchased at auction a very long time ago... Once upon that time, I doodled on rice paper alongside Japanese friends who wrote in kanji using brushes. Me, I wrote in Gregg's Shorthand using pens and pots of ink. (Haiku, we were having a haiku fad at the time.)
ReplyDeleteIt's me, Beth from the American Midwest. Have no idea why I'm now anonymous.
DeleteI thought it wsa you, Beth! Google can be very badly behaved. I'm pleased that my post inspired you to have a rummage through your art supplies cabinet. I'm tempted to buy myself a dip pen and have another go at caligraphy, I loved it as a teenager and it would be even more thrilling using a nib I'd made with my own fair hands! xxx
DeleteHello!
ReplyDeleteI know the Pelikan brand, I used it when I was a student! And I learned that the pens all came from Birmingham! This museum is a real national treasure!
You are all dressed beautifully, I love your coat! As always, your style is amazing!
Have a great day! And your friend too <33
I love that Pelikan was used in Portugal! Its funny, pens are so commonplace, we'd always use fountain pens at school but i don;t remember ever wondering from where they'd originated - I'd have been gobsmacked to discover that they'd mostly been made 9 miles down the road from me! xxx
DeleteThe Great Western Arcade is enchanting.
ReplyDeleteIt's incredible that in the 19th century, three-quarters of everything written was done with a Birmingham pen, because back then, most people still wrote by hand. You two look fantastic!
Thanks, Andrea! I couldn't believe just how much Birmingham had contributed to all the writing in the world!
DeleteThe Great western Earcade is beautiful, I imagine Vienna has some similarly grand arcades. xxx
Fascinating! Amazing how much of the production of goods in the Industrial Revolution (and post-that) was done by women! Love your gorgeous coat, Vix! Thanks so much for sharing this with us!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Sheila! xxx
DeleteWhat a hard life those children had back in the old days. When I was at school in the 1960s we did 'scripture' twice a week which was writing with a pen nib and dipping into the ink well, filled by bottles of Swan ink. My handwriting wasn't as good as you or Liz despite much practice as I am left handed and was made to write at school with my right hand. You both look very colourful in your Autumnal outfits. Never been to Birmingham but wouldn't mind, it looks fun. Betty
ReplyDeleteI just googled when Swan ink went out of production, it was in the 50s, so I assume there was a lot of old stock around in my day, my dad had bottles of it too. I sort of wish we could bring back some of these lovely things as letter writing is I expressed myself far better in letters than I ever can over phone/text/whatsapp! Betty (again)
DeleteCorrection, Quink not Swan!
DeleteI know, it wasn't an easy life, was it? So mnay of those ink bottles looked familiar to us. I remember the Stephen's and Swan. We used Quink at school and I was surprised to see it stocked in shops throughout India on our travels there.
DeleteI really struggled with the caligraphy when I visited with Nikki earlier in the year as I used to be quite a good writer but I think I had just picked up the wrong pen because my writing was loads better theis time. Did you know that they made left handed nibs? Maybe you could treat yourself and have another bash at it! xxx
Fascinating glimpse into the social history of Birmingham but my goodness, making a fortune on the backs of women and those poor children is a sad state of affairs and certainly not unique to any specific part of the UK, it was happening all over. Bit ashamed to say, I loved using my fountain pen and inkwell at school now that I know how they were made!
ReplyDeleteI was so excited when I started grammar school and had to use a fountain pen, I felt proper grown-up! It must have been a hard life making those pens and being fined for every misdemenour - even singing! xxx
DeleteTakové krásy na jednom místě....Birmingham....snad se tam někdy podívám.
ReplyDeleteBirmingham to fantastyczne miasto, drugie najpopularniejsze miejsce w Wielkiej Brytanii na spędzenie długiego weekendu. Powinieneś je odwiedzić! x
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