Saturday 5 October 2024

Autumn in Corfu - The Mountain Village of Doukades



Yassas! We're home from an idyllic trip to beautiful Paleokastritsa in Corfu's northwestern coast, a village we love so much that we've stayed there five times over the last seven years.


For most of our 17 night stay this was our daily view, interrupted only by my twice-daily routine of jumping off the rocks and swimming over to Liapades, the beach you can see in the distance, whilst Jon honed his diving skills. Weather-wise, September in the Ionian Islands is notoriously unreliable but despite the dire warnings of near-biblical rain and severe thunderstorms, there was only three days where we weren't able to sunbathe (or swim).


With thousands of photographs to plough through, I thought I'd start my travelogue by sharing one of our walks, following the Corfu Mountain Trail up to Doukades, a traditional Ionian mountain village 5km from Paleokastritsa.


Island weather can change in the blink of an eye but, unlike the UK, the rain never lasts all day. The morning had started with rain and thunder but after a couple of hours, the storm was but a dim & distant memory and sun was attempting to break though the clouds.


Doukades originated following a period of devastating pirate raids on Corfu’s coastal communities when people retreated to the more remote interior. The earliest written reference to the village is from 1616.


Above is the former home of Georgios Theotokis, Prime Minister of Greece from 1899 - 1909. Another resident of the Theokoti Mansion was Lady Jane Digby, a notorious aristocratic beauty, who I wrote about HEREJane, a born gardener and a garden lover, celebrated her arrival at Doukades by planting a cypress tree in the grounds, It is still there, tall as a tower now, a dignified and delighted memorial to her - her only memorial in Greece. E. M. Oddie (1935)


After a frappe in the village bakery we wandered the narrow lanes, chatting the cats and picking out our fantasy holiday cottage we'd restore from a ruin.
 



































When we visit Corfu in the Summer we hike early in the morning to escape the intense heat. In September we can go later in the day and stay for lunch.


We shared Greek salad, dolmades (stuffed vine leaves) and a basket of bread - baked hours earlier in the the village bakery directly opposite the taverna - and, of course, two large glasses of ice-cold Alpha.














By the time we'd got back to Paleokastritsa the sun was shining and the beach was calling. It was such a glorious afternoon that I was still swimming at 6.30pm.


Despite warnings on the travel forums of chilly evenings and how we'd need jackets & closed in shoes at night, the temperature remained at a steady 20°C after sunset - more than warm enough to sit outside in our short sleeved shirts, strappy dresses & sandals. The denim jacket I flew out in remained stuffed in my bag until the flight home!


Jon's in the garden of our studio apartment and I'm in my usual posing position overlooking La Grotta bay.


But what a difference a few days make! Although it's been sunny since we arrived home late on Wednesday afternoon, it's been rather chilly, although my new-to-me vintage velvet jacket and red leather cowboy boots helped sweeten the blow. This was Friday's outfit which got lots of love when I was out and about. 


Thanks for reading! Stay tuned for more of our Corfu adventures, coming up very soon.

39 comments:

  1. Welcome home, you have been missed, xx

    Always such a vicarious pleasure reading about your travels. Thank you for generously sharing so much with us.

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  2. There's a definite nip in the air now, but I'm trying to embrace my autumn wardrobe. Love the velvet jacket. Can you let us have a close up of the cowboy boots please. I'm looking out for the right pair myself this year. 🙂 Xx

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    1. It's proper Autumnal, isn't it Annie? You'll be sick to death of those boots in a few weeks time, I think they might be a permanent fixture on my feet! xxx

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  3. I've a goal once I feel a bit more financially secure, to take my kids and any significant others and family they have to Greece. I will be picking your brain by rereading all your posts and recommendations. Your trips sound ideal; part sight seeing, part rest and relaxation, part active hiking, and of course delicious food and drink. Of course, air fare from the United States will be the biggest cost, but that's why I'll save and in the meantime, I'll live vicariously through you until our time comes.

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    1. Hello Sam! Greece is wonderful, every island offers something for everyone and the mainland's stunning, too; It's great to hear from you. x

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  4. The vacation must have been fantastic, you look sensationally good <3
    The houses have a lot of charm, the green terrace on the pink house is particularly pretty.

    You still have some work to do sorting and looking through the pictures.
    I'm already looking forward to more photos and travel reports. :)
    Wish you a very nice weekend xxx

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    1. Thanks so much! I love the old village houses in Greece, the pink plasterwork seems a particularly popular feature in Corfu, I think it must be a nod to the Venetian period. xxx

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  5. I think it's the perfect time for a vacation in Greece,
    without the excessive heat.
    You chose a fantastic place, away from the crowds!
    It seems like you had a wonderful time,
    walking, swimming, eating well, and ultimately leaving feeling refreshed and satisfied.
    Have a lovely autumn!

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    1. Thanks, Katerina! It's certainly a lot cooler in Corfu in September but still way better than an average Summer in the UK. I love how much warmer the sea is at this time of year, too. xxx

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  6. Lovely travel pics and I love that velvet jacket xxx

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    1. Thanks, Lynn! I bought that velvet5 jacket on a boiling hot day in July, I'd almost forgotten all about it! xxx

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  7. wow, what a fabulous weather!, I love Autumn in the mediterranean, it's so warm and delightfully quiet!. Love your photos, every detail, every old door and every cat!, so cute!. Lots of pink walls too, so fantastic!
    So great that you could enjoy some sea swimming almost everyday, it was not so warm in our Algarvian Holiday this year!
    besos

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    1. Hello Monica! I loved how quiet everywhere was and how much warmer the sea is in September, Jon's usually reluctant to get in it, this time he was in as often as I was! xxx

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  8. What a gorgeous village! I loved reading about its history.
    A lot of villages in the Mediterranean area, especially the coastal ones, originated the same way. Apparently, pirates were a real treat!
    The views there are so stunning. Look at that beach! I love it. The sea is mesmerizing.
    And the photos you took of the village are lovely. I'm sure I'd enjoy strolling it.
    The green printed maxi dress looks so amazing on you.
    You look fantastic!!!!!!!!!!!

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  9. Oh, wow! It looks amazing. I love your outfits, especially that green dress. Fabulous!

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  10. Glad the weather behaved for your trip. It must have been tough tearing yourselves away.

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    1. It was fantastic, we loved every minute. xxx

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  11. What a beautiful place, I love the pink washed cottages, everything looks like time has stopped, must have been very peaceful. Your sleeved green dress is a winner. Swimming in that bay would be wonderful, I would love to do that. Glad you're back though, missed your posts. Betty :)

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    1. Hello Betty! I love those timeless Greek mountain villages, always so peaceful and authentic. There's something about that shade of green in Greece, the purity of the light makes a lot of colours look a bit muddy and dull. xxx

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  12. Hello stranger!
    Your first photo in particular, looks simply idyllic and I can well imagine that you might want to stay in the water all day long!
    It's unusual to see overcast skies in one of your travel blog posts (I love the drama of those clouds gathering around the mountains), but it must have made hiking more comfortable and I'm glad the weather didn't negatively impact your holiday.
    Your new vintage velvet jacket is gorgeous! xxx

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    1. Hello Claire! That water was amazing, so much warmer than when we visit in July. With Paleokastritsa being so high up we often see misty skies early in the morning but the sunshine usually burns it off in no time - they do add a bit more atmosphere to the photos! xxx

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  13. Love this! We too are Corfu addicts: We've been there seven times in three years (after a hiatus in the gorgeous Adakoy Peninsula in Turkey). I think we probably overlapped with you on our latest visit! We love Doukades. One thing that really interests me, though, is your love for Paleo. We drove through it a few years ago and it seemed really beautiful but like the Sidari Canal 'd'Amour or Porto Timoni too busy, but I suspect - from your comments - that it is actually a gorgeous, quiet place and we hit a bad day. Will definitely revisit next May. Can't wait for next installment. Xx

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    1. Hello Heloise - I'm making a note of the Adakoy Peninsula, I've not been to Turkey in decades. Fancy us being in Corfu at the same time. I think you must have driven through the area of Paleokastritsa below the monastery by Aghia Spiridon beach. Although it was practically empty this September I think it can get busy with coach parties during the day but by sunset all the day trippers leave and it's so quiet, chilled out and magical! We always stay at the opposite end, near the campsite - do pop over and have a wander in May. xxx

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    2. I think we did run into a bus trip. I'm really sad that we judged the area on that basis. I think you have probably seen them all but Ortholithi and Agios Gordios and the little Agios Stefanos Church and Erianna's little bar are places that I think you and Jon would love. Xx

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    3. Hopefully you'll change your mind on your next trip! I've just checked and Jon & I haven't visited those places you've mentioned so we shall definitely check them out on our next visit. Thanks so much for the suggestions! xxx

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  14. Your trip to Paleokastritsa sounds very idyllic indeed, and I'm not surprised that you keep returning to the same village year after year!
    I loved tagging along on your hike to Doukades and your photos have definitely captured its time-worn beauty!
    It must have been quite a come-down coming back to cold and rainy UK - it hasn't been much better here in Belgium - but I'm glad to hear your stunning Autumnal outfit managed to sweeten the blow somewhat!
    Can't wait for the next installment! xxx

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    1. I think Paleokastritsa is the first place I've ever been to that quenches my wanderlust, I could sit and stare at the views for months and not have the slightest inclination to travel any further!
      I'm sorry you've had that foul weather we dodged when we were in Corfu. One of our regular Wetherspoons even had to be evacuated when it was struck by lightning! xxx

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  15. Urgh, I am so jealous that my eyes have turned green. What a lovely holiday!!
    Megan.

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    1. Corfu is so beautiful, Megan...I'd kill to live in one of those houses! xxx

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  16. It looks fabulous, all that sunshine and blue seas. I could just do with jetting off there myself, right now this minute. xx

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    1. Corfu is so gorgeous, I never get tired of it! xxx

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  17. I've miss you! Welcome home! Lovely pics, and so glad the Weather Gods smiled upon you!

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    1. Thanks, Sheila! We were so lucky with the weather. xxxx

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  18. What a treat to be reading from my sick bed! The rocket of a cold with extra trimmings has descended! My son and his wife went to a new Greek restaurant in Edinburgh at the weekend but they said the food wasn't very good (they also went to see Joker_2 which was also not very good!). I told them about those giant beans you have when you go to Greece but they said they were given edamame beans! Just wasn't their night! Good job I could childmind for them without event (unless you count the 4yr old sneaking in beside me at 10.45pm to show me the Lego Batmobile he'd constructed. Pretending to be interested was hard!!). Look forward to more Greek treats.xxx

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    1. Oh no, get well soon, my darling! Endame beans! Goodness me, what a let down. If they've got a Lidl nearby tell them to keep their eyes peeled for Greek week, their tinned giant beans are gorgeous and every bit as tasty as the real thing. xxx

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  19. I love that door knocker.
    And your photographs are beautiful, Vix. Some of them look like paintings. Xx

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    1. Thanks, Jules. There's something about the golden light in Greece than makes everything more beautiful! xxx

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Thanks for reading and for leaving a message. Please don't be anonymous, I'd love it if you left a name (or a nom de plume).

Lots of love, Vix