Saturday 14 October 2023

Santorini, 2023 - Chasing Windmills


All too soon it was the final day of our holiday and to make the last glorious Santorini sunrise all the more memorable, we walked down to the beach and watched whilst the Aegean lapped around our ankles.



Still early, we decided to take a closer look at the windmills on which we'd admired from our roof terrace for the past two weeks.



The windmills stand on the ridge of Gavrilis hill, south west of the village of Emporio (which we visited HERE). Dating back to the 19th century when Emporio was a bustling trade centre, the windmills were built by Gavrilis, a wealthy landowner, who wanted to process the wheat and other grains produced in his fields. The mills were powered by the strong winds that blow across the island and they were a crucial part of the local economy.


As new technologies emerged, over time the windmills became obsolete and they fell into disrepair. By the 20th Century, many of the mills were abandoned with some used as storage rooms or dwellings. However, in 1993, the Ministry of Culture designated them as historical monuments and with renewed interest in preserving the windmills, several have been restored and turned into luxurious holiday lets.




The windmills of Gavrilis are impressive structures, each consisting of a circular stone tower, topped by a conical roof made of wooden planks. The roof is covered with tiles or thatch, depending on the era in which the mill was built, the tower has several levels, with narrow windows and a door at the base.Inside the tower, there is a circular room where the milling machinery was located. The machinery consisted of a large wooden wheel, called a millstone, which was turned by the wind. The grain was poured into a funnel at the top of the millstone, and it was ground into flour or meal.


Needless to say that its very windy up on Gavrilis Hill but the views are spectacular.





Other than a lady who waved and shouted Kalimera, there wasn't another soul to be seen.











An eye-watering €500 a night but what a fabulous place to stay....



















The morning had started off overcast but, by mid-morning, the sun had burned through the clouds and it was, yet again, gloriously warm. We were happy to find a cafeteria at the top of Gavrilis Hill and enjoyed a couple of ice cold frappes whilst admiring the view.






We ascended to the very peak of the hill and couldn't help singing Mamma Mia at the top of our voices when we spotted the picturesque church of Profitas Ilias. Yep, I know Mamma Mia wasn't filmed on Santorini but we couldn't help ourselves! 
 





By the time we'd got changed and headed back to the beach we'd walked ten miles so didn't feel in the least bit guilty for indulging in massive bougatsas (custard pies) from the village bakery after our Greek salad lunch.After packing up our belongings we had a final rum & cola on the roof before Zoe dropped us off at the airport. When she embraced us and told us that she'd remember us for the rest of our lives I did my very best not to cry. 


From Mediaeval villages, ancient ruins and a museum dedicated to tomatoes to volcanos, hot springs and black sand beaches, Santorini exceeded all our expectations. Anyone who tells you that they've been and that the island been ruined by mass tourism clearly made no effort to look beyond Oia. As for the claims of it being f*cking expensive - it doesn't have to be - forget luxe living, Insta-worthy boutique hotels & hire cars - book yourself a cheap flight & leave the luggage at home (we paid £199 return travelling with a carry-on bag), make do with basic accommodation and use the island's brilliant bus service. 

Travel more, worry less.

Thanks for reading! See you soon.

33 comments:

  1. I can't tell if your dress is red print or a glorious pink, but either way, that IS your color. You look vibrant and, in every photo, you popped. Gorgeous! (Beautiful scenery also) Ranee (MN) USA

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    1. Hello Ranee! Thanks so much. The dress is the best of both worlds, pink and red! xxx

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  2. Agree with budget living arrangements! As long as it's clean and the plumbing works, we're good. Money is for enjoying yourself with not having poshest room in town. Experiences are what you remember not what the "free toiletries" smelt like.

    Lovely pictures

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    1. Amen to that, sister! I go away to see places, a room is just a place for showering or sleeping. xxx

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  3. What a beautiful travel post. You both look stylish and happy. You know how to travel in style.
    As for Mamma Mia , it's a fabulous song and any moment that feels right is the right moment for it. I love ABBA.
    I would love to visit Santorini off season. You look right at home there.
    People complaining that some place is expensive often don't know what they are talking about. Any place is expensive if you don't know how to save up.
    When I lived on island Hvar on a teacher salary (almost minimal wage!), I still managed to save money even with a high rent, bills and everything else! I still wonder how I did it.

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    1. Thanks, Ivana! It's possible to travel inexpensively, you just need to do your homework. Joining the relevant travel groups on Facebook is one of the best ways, then you get the latest information and recommendations rather than rely on a book that's a few years out of date.
      Hvar was on a travel show the other day, after admiring it on your blog many times I was so excited to see it! xxx

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  4. 'Travel More, Worry Less', that's going on my headstone! I know you've done it in the past on various posts but concise instructions on travelling light would be marvellous. A book would be even better!!!I'm sure many will agree!xxx

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    1. I spotted it on a tee shirt in a charity shop, if I wore tee shirts I'd have bought it and never taken it off. Packing light is a great idea for a future blog post, I better book another trip so I can talk everyone through how I do it! xxx

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  5. You certainly chose the right dress to wear on your visit to the windmills - it really pops against a landscape so lacking in colour! Lovely!
    Credit to you for walking 10 miles in that heat! The bougatsas sound delicious. xxx

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    1. Thanks, Claire! I was amazed at how bright it looked when I saw the photos. It's the perfect travel dress, two weeks of wear and its still crisp and vibrant! Bougatsa are amazing, we limit ourselves to one on each Greek trip, they're enormous! xxx

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  6. Oooh I love it when folks are all it's too expensive/boring/can't get wifi/no parking on the doorstep. It means they won't come back to bleat on lol. Each to their own I suppose.
    Obviously there are real bargains to be had if you are prepared to do a bit of rooting around/research - a cheap 'expensive' holiday for the win! Luxury is a mindset.

    Elaine Again xxx

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    1. I get hours of pleasure reading the negative reviews on Booking.Com. WiFi and parking seem to be more important than a beautiful view or a host who treats you like family. We stayed in a lovely studio flat in Kos which had been awarded the lowest mark by someone who claimed that their holiday was ruined as there wasn't a spatula in the kitchen! Luxury is a mindset - I couldn't have put it better myself! xxx

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    2. Heh - similar to the one that tickled me - "... there was no garlic press" - what fresh hell is this - blimey

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    3. That made me laugh out loud, honest to god! A couple of years ago our lovely friend George, who we stay with when we go to Rhodes had to evacuate his guests when there was a wildfire heading towards them and they had to spend the night on the beach out of harm's way. Someone marked him down as there was no WiFi on the beach, never mind that he saved her from burning to death! xxx

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  7. I'm glad to read that those magnificent windmills have been designated as historical monuments! The views are stunning too, and I absolutely love that photo of you posing in front of the green door of that particularly gorgeous windmill.
    Sounds like you had the most wonderful holiday, and all on a budget too. I do agree with Elaine commenting above me that luxury is a mindset! xxx

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    1. Thanks, Ann! I'm amazed the windmills were so quiet, I expected coachloads of tourists and Instagram photos - more fool them! xxx

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  8. I'm so glad they have preserved those windmills! I love that those were the original renewable and sustainably powered machines! I'm so glad you had a wonderful time and you have been rewarded with knowing that Santorini offers something different to those who seek to find it! xx

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    1. I know, it's so good that the windmills been recognised as being an important part of the nation's heritage. Yes, Santorini is fab and anyone who says otherwise should be ashamed of themselves! xxx

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  9. The red Dress suits you beautiful. I love the Pics of the Windmills. They look so peaceful and nice. The Sunrise Video is my favorite

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    1. Thank you so much! That sunrise video smight become my screensaver! xxx

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  10. Oh I loved those windmills.. there were a similar set in Mykonos as well.. so many people were having professional photo sessions there.

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    1. The Cycadean windmills are iconic, aren't they? I was amazed that nobody had started offering those "Flying Dress Shots" up on Gavrilos Hill! xxx

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  11. Your dress looks so good against the white windmills and blue sky, Vix! What gorgeous pics! I love that you did Santorini "on the cheap" - that's my favourite way to travel!

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    1. Thanks, Sheila! It's a very Instagrammable dress if I could be bothered with such things! xxx

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  12. It's been lovely following this trip, this last post is right up my street, I love a windmill - we have some near us, the pictures are beautiful and you look wonderful in your red dress, showing us all that travelling light doesn't mean you can't wear fabulous things and look wonderful :) Betty

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    1. Morning, Betty! I don't think you've shared your local windmills, I'd love to see them. We've got one behind our house, we think it's when William used to live.
      If I pack clothes I really love I don't mind wearing them over and over again. That dress is so bright and vibrant nobody notices if it's a bit grubby! xxx

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  13. Wow. So breathtakingly beautiful. Love your dress, so flattering on you.

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    1. Thanks, Ratnamurti! Lovely to hear from you. x

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  14. I've just been catching up by bingeing on your Santorini posts. What an incredible island, even more so because, for me at least, it was unexpected. I've only ever read how crowded, 'glamorous' and expensive it is. It's not somewhere that was on my radar, so I never really questioned the received wisdom.
    I think my absolutely favourite bit was the tomato factory, but it was hard to pick.
    Absolutely brilliant travel blogs, Vicky! Xxx

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    1. Lovely to hear from you, Annie! Santorini was fabulous, nothing at all like I expected it to be, there's loads we didn't see making it the perfect excuse to go back. Simon Calder's posted some island hopping itineraries in the Independent recently, I'm very tempted to spend a fortnight travelling around the Cyclades.
      That tomato museum was worth the trip alone!
      xxx

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  15. I've enjoyed your posts so much! and you're converting me into a Greece fan (not being interested in visit it before, totally because of prejudices!). I'll love a visit to any island, even Santorini, as you've opened my eyes, sharing your tips to do it in a budget!
    besos

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    1. you should go to Greece, Monica, every island (and the mainland) has something unique to offer and the party places tend to be concentrated in just one town so no thumping bass or bar crawls to annoy you! xxx

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  16. Absolutely beautiful pictures of you and the windmills.
    Looks like a super special place xXx

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Lots of love, Vix