Monday, 4 March 2019

Moseley Old Hall, The House That Saved A King



Now we're back at home and life is pretty much back to normal, I'm applying for trade pitches at music festivals, we're hunting the greater Black Country for vintage treasures and spending the subsequent hours laundering, repairing and ironing our finds not to mention Jon's painfully laborious restoration of Gilbert. It's not all hard work though, we did manage to squeeze in a bit of culture a couple of weeks ago with a visit to Moseley Old Hall, a National Trust property a mere eight mile drive from our front door.


 Known as The House That Saved A King, this compact Elizabethan farmhouse on the outskirts of Wolverhampton famously offered shelter to King Charles II after he fled Cromwell's troops following defeat at The Battle of Worcester in 1651. I'd visited as an eight year old schoolgirl and, being a bit odd, quickly became obsessed with Charles, avidly compiling a scrapbook of anything I could find relating to him. A couple of years later I was devastated to discover than I was a descendant of Oliver Cromwell.


There's an Indian connection to King Charles II. His wife, Catherine of Braganza, a Portuguese princess, brought a dowry of £500,000 as well as the city of Bombay when she married him. She was also responsible for introducing the drinking of tea to England, a girl after my own heart.



We visited Moseley Old Hall on the day it had re-opened after the winter break and the first tour of the house was fully booked so, taking advantage of the glorious sunshine, we had a wander around the grounds, climbing tree houses and spotting signs of Spring.








We even encountered a curious peacock - yet another link to India! So beautiful.




Moseley Old Hall was built in around 1600 and was originally half-timbered, but following   modernisation in 1870, the Elizabethan windows were replaced and the outer walls cladded with brick. The Tudor chimneys remain unchanged. During the time it offered shelter to the fleeing monarch it was occupied by the Whitgreave family and remained in the family until 1925.










The gardens contain plants popular in the 17th Century, a fruit orchard and an elegant knot garden.


Our trip was spur of the moment and we'd neglected to bring lunch so we splashed out on a pot of tea and sandwiches in the cafe - delicious but costing more than two nights accommodation in Goa, something we shan't be making a habit of!


We joined the tour and I instantly bonded with the guide, who looked fabulous in her vintage 1960s coat and purple bobbed hair.


 We peeped at the priest-hole where Charles II had hidden (the family who sheltered him during his flight from Cromwell's New Model Army were Roman Catholics, a religion outlawed by Henry VIII) and saw the four poster bed where the king had rested.


We stood in the kitchen where a weary Charles, who'd arrived cold and wet, disguised in workmen's clothing and ill-fitting shoes, was given ale, bread and cheese while a Catholic priest, also hidden by the inhabitants of Moseley Old Hall, tended to his bleeding feet. At 6 foot 2", Charles was a giant by seventeenth century standards, the clothes (and shoes) which he'd borrowed from sympathetic local farmers were far too small for him. After a five day walk in ill-fitting shoes his feet were said to have been ruined.


The altar was hidden away in the attic of the house. Discovery of this by Cromwell's army could have led to certain death for the Whitgreave family.


After the tour we had a rummage in the secondhand bookshop before waving goodbye to our new friend, the peacock.


Moseley Old Hall
Fordhouses
Wolverhampton WV10 7HY

Open daily from 10am  (house from 11am)

50 comments:

  1. What a great Old Hall. That dark old chest in one of the bedrooms is beautiful.

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    1. Such a lovely room, I'm surprised Charles didn't want to stay there! x

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  2. Love the parterre! The tour sounds fascinating. X

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    1. I'd hoped to take a photo from upstairs but the glass in the windows was of the bull's eye variety. Bet it's gorgeous in the summer. x

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  3. Ir looks like a fab place to visit. I haven't yet used my Christmas present NT pass as most of the places closer to home haven't reopened yet. My first visit will be to Anglesey Abbey which is in Cambridgeshire...

    I must say I liked the look of Catherine - I liked her little turned up nose! The crucified Jesus was horribly lifelike.

    PS. Lookout for my next post which I'll be posting earlier than usual; I've nominated you for something...

    Have a fab week.
    xxx

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    1. Oh, that sounds intriguing!
      Yes, still early days for the National trust properties, I'd looked at a few which were all closed until the end of March. You'll soon be making the most of your membership.
      I think poor Catherine endured a loveless marriage, no wonder she turned to tea! x

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  4. It is wonderful exploring these old Halls with you.

    It is great that the UK manages to keep these places open to the public.

    Suzanne
    http://www.suzannecarillo.com

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    1. That NT membership was one of the best extravagances we'd had! xxx

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  5. I went through a phase of being besotted with Charles II and the 17th century is still my most favourite period in history.
    I've just finished rereading Forever Amber by Kathleen Winsor which I first read when I was about fourteen. Have you read it?
    Hugs-x-

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    1. Thanks, Sheila! I've heard of Forever Amber but never read it, thanks for the reminder, I'll see if I can track it down. xxx

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  6. gorgeous photos of the peacock!
    that story of king charles seeking asylum in moseley old hall is very dramatic! rough times indeed.
    the house is beautiful with the simple bricks and the many gables and i like that knot garden. and you in your fabulous attire look right at home there!
    xxxxx

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    1. We had trouble photographing Mr Peacock, he was more interested in our bags than posing! xxx

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  7. I love the dramatic tales of England's monarchs. Charles II is one of my personal favorites (and I had no idea he was a giant!). He was a man who loved to "cavort", I've read.
    And you look like a queen yourself in your beautiful dress and over-coat. Stunning. xox

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    1. I didn't know he was a giant either! Six foot two was massive back then! x

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  8. Your countryside is so beautiful, I love it when you share your day trips just as much as your adventures in India!

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    1. Thanks you so much. Hard to believe that Moseley Old Hall is minutes away from one of the UK's busiest motorways, isn't it? xxx

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  9. What a lovely old place! I adore that knot garden - perfect for wandering in!

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  10. So interesting!!! Lovely place to roam around on beautiful day!

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  11. Hi Vix, looks like a nice day out.
    I love how you admit to being obsessed about this area in history and instantly bonding to the lady wearing vintage clothes. X

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    1. It was! I'm so glad we took out National Trust membership, it's ideal for history fanatics like us!
      I'd clocked that lady's coat when I saw her in the cafe, I was thrilled when she turned out to be our guide. x

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  12. It must have been quite a sight when it was still half-timbered. Nevertheless, it's still a beautiful house, made even more interesting with the Charles II connection. Fancy you being a descendant of Oliver Cromwell! That knot garden is magnificent, and how nice of you to make friends with the resident peacock. You and him are certainly competing for being best dressed! xxx

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    1. Restorations, huh! Why couldn't they let it be!! It was lovely though, the gardens, even in early spring were full of life (no cats though!) xxx

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  13. What a lovely trip! Thank you for sharing it with us1 I did not know that Catherine brought tea & Bombay to England.
    xox

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    1. Apparently she also gave Charles II Tangier, I think I'd have married her! x

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  14. Those gardens! Of course you make friends with peacocks-they must admire your colourful garb. Better a peacock than a monkey!

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  15. It's a beautiful place and what a fantastic and important part it has played in history. Also, I love peacocks!

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    1. It's not as grand as some of the properties which makes it all the more endearing, I think! I love peacocks! xxx

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  16. I lap up your visits to NT properties in the hope that I might get to some of the ones in your part of the world if I'm ever there not just working. We're hoping to get to Little Moreton Hall in Cheshire when we visit our son soon.
    Arilx

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    1. Moseley Old Hall is right next top the M54 so it's a great stopover if you're travelling that way.
      Little Moreton Hall looks gorgeous, I hope you get there (and blog about it!) x

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  17. It’s nice stepping back in time and being reminded of life before technology. I’m imaging Charles turning up on the kitchen, worn out and seeking solace. It’s amazing to think you’ve been stood in that same kitchen. It makes my spine tingle.
    That knot garden is wonderful.
    Lynn xxx

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    1. Isn't it lovely to stand where history happened? I do love a National Trust day out, it's been ages since we last visited any. xxx

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  18. Nice to see you getting some wear out of that beautiful coat! Another interesting NT property, they have some corkers. Xx

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    1. Thank you! That coat is almost welded to my back of late!
      The NT have some fantastic places, there's a couple of new ones near us this year - very exciting! x

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  19. I'll take a peacock over a monkey I think :)
    What a beautiful place to visit - inside and out.
    xx

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    1. Me, too! Peacocks are much more refined although I've heard of one at Powis Castle in Wales called Colin who terrorises visitors enjoying cream teas in the sunshine as he's somewhat partial to scones!! x

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  20. It's a beautiful garden, especially in the glorious sunshine.
    Oliver Cromwell was born in Huntingdon north of Cambridge. Fancy you have links to these parts!
    Peacocks are beautiful, I know someone who was attacked by one as a child though, pecked on the forehead, no lasting damage but remi ded me of Jon's brush with the monkey eek! xxx

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    1. I know, I've got London and Cambridgeshire roots, very fancy!
      Oh no, I won't tell Jon about the peacock incident, he'll develop a phobia about them next! xxx

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  21. Your coat is absolutely beautiful!
    Our ( W'ton) High School was invited to put on a historic costumes display at Moseley back when I was 15 ( 1960) and I , as a tall girl ( 5 ft 8 in) was chosen to be a Puritan . I walked down the staircase with the smallest girl in our class as my child. We were told to look serious and not to smile at the audience! You certainly brought back memories!

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    1. What a tale! Those stairs weren't the easiest to negotiate, I can only imagine how difficult it was for you trying not to smile whilst descending them! xxx

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  22. It's so wonderful inside! I wish the Victorians hadn't modernised it - you'd think with their enthusiasm for the gothic, they might've appreciated a bit of Tudor too.

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    1. I know! I'm not sure what they were thinking, although it was a pretty exterior, the original was way better. x

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  23. A house that saved a king...and what a tale it has to say! How interesting that Charles II was that tall, I imagine that his feet were indeed ruined indeed after that long flight in shoes much too small....I didn't know that he was married to Portuguese princess (although it is not surprising, European royal nobility always married between themselves) and that she brought the habit of drinking tea to England....and that city of Bombay as her dowry. A lot of interesting information.

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    1. It's well worth signing up for a guided tour around National Trust properties if you can, you learn so many fascinating snippets of information that way! xxx

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  24. what a delightful house and so fab that you could enjoy the tour in a sunny day!, the gardens look amazing and the building is to die for!! I totally understand how fascinating an historical figure can be!!
    You look fabulous indeed, love your quilt coat!
    besos

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    1. Isn't it lovely to get out and explore on a sunny day? I so used to resent being an employee when we had lovely weather! xxx

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Lots of love, Vix