Wednesday, 5 February 2014

Travels In Goa Part 3 - Down The Market

This is Johal's Mini Market, a five minute walk from our front door and a veritable treasure trove of products from the subcontinent. The shelves are stuffed with everything from exotic fruit and veg, temple incense, powdered henna, Asian beauty products, dried pulses, sacks of rice & gram flour, catering sized oil drums & all manner of weird and wonderful spices. With the radio blasting out Punjabi pop from Raaj FM if you ignore the icy blast of air from outside its almost like being back in India.

Lets pop back to real India. This was Margao, Goa's bustling second city. Littered with crumbling colonial buildings, there's some great little cafes to eat & drink in and the maze-like covered market is amazing.

Here's our favourite breakfast - Pav Bhaji - a fiery chick pea and potato curry with fluffy bread rolls, served straight from the oven. It costs around 20p and the waiter will often refill your plate for free. We make our own at home using this recipe. Weird? Once you've had curry for breakfast you'll never look at a bowl of soggy bran flakes in the same way.

Being a fellow veggie and spicy food fan, Panty Buns might enjoy this.

Catching the bus is an experience in itself, women at the front, men at the back, Bollywood filmi music blasting from the speakers so loudly that the windows vibrate and the punters are packed in so tightly you wonder if you'll ever get off alive. Could 10p buy as much fun anywhere else in the world?

 The Damodar (an incarnation of Shiva) Temple is slap bang in the middle of the market place.

No such thing as traffic wardens in Goa, just park and go.

Here's the entrance to the market.

 Stall after stall of trashy, plastic-y, shiny tat...

Great for stocking up on hair grips, hairpieces and clips.

Stopping off at the chai shop for a restorative 8p masala chai. Those eggs are used to make Goan speciality, a ross omelette, made with finely sliced chilli and onion & served in a spicy masala sauce. Recipe HERE.

I love how the chai shop is decorated - hot pink walls, framed Hindu gods and austere Colonial era shop furniture. Wouldn't those green storage tins on top of the cabinet make fantastic outdoor lanterns with big, fat church candles inside? Yet more inspiration for our dream dilapidated Portuguese mansion.

Bindis, bangles and kajal galore.

Garlic and spices.....

 Dried chillies by the kilo,

 Bombay duck (dried and salted lizard fish)...

Beauty products galore...

This shop specialises in cashew nuts and fireworks, a strange combination...

Its rare a day passes in Goa without a firework display.

Pink really is the navy blue of India. After a month, the UK seems so pitifully drab.

These marigold & jasmine garlands are everywhere, temples, cars, homes, shrines and restaurants. 

Back to reality, but how much clearer are the photos? I'm loving my new camera.

1970s Dollyrockers maxi (Second To None, 2010), Hippy-tastic embroidered denim & fake fur waistcoat (Banardos, 2011), British Tortoise appreciation society tote bag (Jumble sale)
The larder is fully stocked and the veg drawers are bursting with fresh vegetables. Jon's planning a right South Indian veggie feast for tea. In the meantime I'd best get cracking with sorting out my vintage stock for replenishing our pitch at Blighty Bazaar and in readiness for Saturday's Valentine's Vintage Fair - our first of 2014.

See you soon!


  1. I don't know how you can bear to be back in the UK!

    Such fab images. I love how some of them look so candid.

    Your gorgeous, as always.

    Loving these posts xx

  2. fernweh! wanderlust! itchy feet!
    have to cook indian dinner when hubby are back from work for the weekend......

  3. I think you have captured the essence of India, very busy, colourful, and industrious by the look of it!

    Beautiful dress and waistcoat too!

  4. Love the photos , captureing the feel of the foodmarket so well , i wannna go shop some chili!

  5. Ooh you must be finding the UK so cold and drab in comparison! Glad to have you back though :)

  6. Wow I feel like I just went on a trip with you! Amazing!

  7. I think I was born in the wrong country, I wanna love wear pink is the new navy blue! I'm gonna try and perfect this breakfast, it sounds like a must have in the winter. I will never get over how inexpensive it is over there, cheap adventure is oh so right!

    I can't believe you guys are already back at it with a fair this weekend, no rest for the motivated! If you are up for a chat I'd love that, let me know when works best. If you are still recooperating next meek for sure before I head to San Diego.
    I miss you beautiful girl!
    Lots of love!

  8. I remember back in the 60s and 70s there was far more in the way of colour. Watch the film 'Bless This house' and see the pretty dresses the older women wore, much less drab.

    I've looked at some of the recipes - planning my own Indian feast. Sadly no shops to go to round my way.

  9. What fun! I'd probably forget to go to the tourist spot and spend the day(s) wandering around that market. Your local market is pretty cool, too.

  10. Thank you for part three, so enjoying the trip. I have to admit I would die packed tightly into a bus, massive panic would consume me. You are brave. Nothing seems to faze you!

  11. Hi my dear! Have absolutely loved living the Holiday experience through your wonderfully vibrant and exciting posts, I so wish I was there, eating the curry for breakfast then going on the bus and exploring and sightseeing, not to mention the beach! It must have been so hard to come home but what a little gem of a local shop to remind you of your lovely holiday! xxx

  12. how wonderful! I think you've captured the hectic and busy side really well in your photos! The blurry ones make it look even more frantic! Not sure if all that was in intentional but it worked!

    We have 2 GIANT Indian supermarkets down the road from us. I really wish that i knew what more of the stuff was so i could buy it, but i did get some copper serving bowls from there. and the decorations they sell at holi time takes up the whole front of the shop so when you walk in it feels like a temple just with lots of the same thing. and the milk and veggies are cheaper than the big chains!

    And country where you can wear pink and orange and look normal is my kinda country!

  13. Wonderful photos! I love seeing all those coloured saris. How great that you have a local place near home that reminds you of being there.

  14. We have several Asian shops within easy reach of our house too, I always go there for ginger, chillis, lentils, coriander and those little aubergines, and all my dried spices - way cheaper than Tesco!
    Love seeing you browsing amongst the veg in your Dollyrockers maxi, bringing a taste of Goan glamour and colour to Walsall!
    More fab pictures of your trip, nothing like a local market and cafe for getting a real taste of a place.
    Enjoy your tea, and crack on, love! xxxx

  15. That market totally rocks! reminds me of the market in the Indian district of Bangkok, and indeed of all Thai markets I've ever spent time in!!! Ah, I am Indian dreaming!
    We've got a great Indian supermarket in town, and I love dribbling around in there for ages, and always buy loads more than I need or know what to do with!
    What IS it about 3rd world countries and colour, and the sheer VITALITY?!
    Your new camera is the bomb, the pix are amazing!
    Love Helga xxxXXXxxx

  16. Hey Vix,
    I've really enjoyed reading, not to mention feasting my eyes on your Goa posts. Loads of much appreciated warmth and colour. I've almost forgotten what colour looks like, the skies have been grey for weeks and on Rutherglen High Street most peeps are shuffling along hiding underneath the hoods of their neutral-colored coats.
    I'm gutted cause we don't have any good fruit and veg shops nearby and the £1 a bowl man seems to be a southern thing. I loved being able to go down to the stall by Finsbury Park station with a tenner and come back with a whole weeks worth of food. Now we have to traipse half an hour to Asda cause our local Aldi doesn't sell spinach, kale nor rocket. Totally scandalous if you ask me but perhaps not very surprising when you take a gander at what the local peeps put in their shopping baskets.
    Never mind, we have big plans for our wee garden so hopefully we'll be able to grow some of our own in a few months.
    I've said it before but it bears repeating, you and Jon have the trimmed bods of a pair of twenty somethings.
    Loads of love,

  17. Really enjoying your travels.


    PS those little retro boxes on my blog you asked about are lunchboxes, I keep my sewing bits and bobs in them. They were a princely 1.99 from Home Bargains.

  18. How wonderful it is to be able to see Goa through your eyes like this. It is really fascinating and different seen by these Canadian's eyes. So much to see. And lucky you for having such a good market so nearby. Hope you enjoyed your meal.

  19. This is so cool. I get to tour India with you : )

    The purple and blue look lovely with your dark long locks.


  20. I love Indian food but I've developed some weird food allergies, and the last time I ate a curry I was very ill. If I went to India I might have to survive on fruit!

  21. What a contrast! the colour and vibrancy of India is amazing, and the food! I could have a curry in the morning, I love Indian food so much, it's spice and so much delicate flavour (I'm hungry now!)your dollyrocker frock is gorgeous and your waistcoat, I'd love an Indian mini-market that close to me x x x

  22. Goa certainly does make England look drab. I love all of the bright colours in your pictures! x

  23. Curry for breakfast sounds surprisingly nice! Thanks for sharing the India pics. It's nice to see what the place is like.
    Hope you're getting acclimatised. You must be gutted that you can't show off your tan! xxx

  24. I love these summaries because it feels like I'm going there with you each time! You look gorgeous in that purple dress and denim waistcoat. Your new camera is brilliant - which did you choose in the end? Nevermind blighty, next month it will be Spring! xx

  25. You're making my mouth water with thoughts of pav bhaji for breakfast. I usually chose stuffed parathas with achar (pickle) over the drab 'English' breakfasts offered at Indian guest houses.
    Cashews and fireworks? Love the juxtaposition.
    Glad you've got a little bit of South India right at home.

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  27. Looking beautiful in that gorgeous dress Vix! I love curry so much any time, and that chickpea/potato curry looks good. Must have been god fun to shop the local markets, that's my favourite. I should have told you to pick me up some sumac spice, I'm out! :-)

  28. It's such an interesting culture, tks for sharing, i love every bit of it!
    We have as well mini market like you in Montreal, they are called - Fruiterie- Fruit and veggie shops - They have everything in there, you are in another world!

    Take care


  29. never ever go on holiday again ! im sick with envy

  30. Love how no one mentions the gentleman in the fetching pants.
    The cognitive dissonance of him popping up out of nowhere mid post makes me wonder if I dreamt him.
    I'm happy to know he is enjoying his life & his nice big pants! :-)

  31. The fresh veggies at Johal's Mini Market look amazing! I absolutely have to try, somehow, to make myself some Pav Bhaji - it looks, sounds, and I'm ceratin it is delicious and that I would love it. How thoughtful of you to include a link to the recipe!!! I wonder whether there are any Indian stores within 50 miles of me? That mix of spices, the pav bhaji masala - especially the Everest brand? The recipe looks fab. I would definitely enjoy it!
    The markets in Goa are intriguing. What a nice variety of colourful art, taste treats and things that look fascinating but I'm not sure what they all are.
    Those dried chilis look hot! I didn't know pink was the navy blue of India. I love pink!
    Your vontage 1970's lilac coloured Dollyrockers maxi is gorgeous, and your embroidered denim waistcoat colplements it nicely.
    The South Indian veggie feast sounds yummy. Best of luck with Saturday's Vintage Fair and your pitch at Blighty Bazaar.

  32. You're making me want to visit so bad! It seems like the perfect vacation destination for you.

  33. OOh not sure I could manage curry for breakfast - the food looks fab though.

  34. P.S.: Sorry for all the typos in my last comment (misspelling "certain", "vintage" and "complements"). I failed to proofread. Thank you very much for the link in the text ("being a fellow veggie and spicy food fan, Panty Buns might enjoy this.") right below this link to the recipe for Pav Bhaji (yum)!!! I also love the taste of cashew butter (my remnant teeth and dentures aren't good enough for the cashews themselves). That combination with the fireworks is interesting :)

  35. The mini market near your place is wonderful - we have a couple of indoor markets that I frequent, but they are more expensive than yours. I love the colours in the markets in India - all the orange and pink is soo pretty. I've really enjoyed seeing your photos from your trip; it must be such a culture shock when you first come back home.

  36. Such beautiful photos - I always love visiting markets when I'm traveling. The cashew nut and fireworks store is interesting....although a town near where I grew up did have a hairdressers and saddlery together and that never made any sense.

  37. Where do i start? These photos are so atmospheric and authentic, they almost make me feel i went with you. So much colour, i love it, just makes me happy. We have a new little indian mini mart near us. i've pressed my snout up against the window a couple of times. I guess i need to brave it inside next time. Johals sounds wonderful and curry for breakfast sounds fine by me. I love the fact that you incorporate your deep love of india into your 'real' life. More great interior design ideas too! Xxxxx

  38. I love Indian markets. I've got similar photos - must dig them out. Funnily enough Jim and I were talking about Indian bus journeys just yesterday - the ones where the suspension is so bad that you get thrown up in the air off your seat at regular intervals - very painful for your old coccyx (can't spell it) I can tell you.

  39. My mind boggles at there being so much to take in. Cashew nuts and fireworks have me giggling, I guess there's only one place it would work. Furthermore if ever they had an accident at least there's always the roasted nut market to capture lol.

  40. Welcome back Vix!

    It looks like you guys had an amazing time. My other half has been to India a few times and although he has taken a few hastily snapped photo's (he has to work over there)the sights and sounds he tries to explain are all here to see. So much colour and motion.

    Its been a really interesting series of blog posts. Happy feasting on your Indian banquet tonight.


  41. You look gorgeous in the lavender maxi!! The market near you looks amazing!! We haver a large international grocery near us that I love!! Can't read half the labels but I can get ingredients and foods from Asia, india, latin America, the middle east and Africa all in one place!!

  42. Love these photos Vix, its so nice to see the colourful streets and market, I could almost smell the chillis. The quality of the photos with the new camera are great - where would we be without digital cameras???

  43. The shiny plastic tat looks like my idea of heaven! x

  44. oooh just catching up on your goan odessy..... haven't been out to visit my friend in Patnem for a few years but would love to feel a bit of Indian sand between my toes.....inspired to make onion bargees for lunch now!!x

  45. oooh just catching up on your goan odessy..... haven't been out to visit my friend in Patnem for a few years but would love to feel a bit of Indian sand between my toes.....inspired to make onion bargees for lunch now!!x

  46. Looks amazing Vix, maybe one day I will get around to exotic travels myself :)
    I am starting a new feature on my own little blog, and I wanted to invite you to join in, I would really love it if you could :)

  47. Ah Pavbhaji is one of my favourites! Lovely pictures Vix x

  48. Oh my, I didn't even realize you were back at home in the last picture, it was just as colorful and full of abundance as the India ones! You do look lovely in the purples and blues of your maxi ensemble. Thanks for sharing India with us.

  49. My senses of taste and colour feel all enlivened and revved up now.

  50. Thank you so much for sharing these photos with us, it's like we get to come along for a little bit of your holiday. And with the horrible weather we're having the bright colours and sunshine are more then welcome. Looks like a trip of a lifetime and you go every year?!

  51. Another feast for the eyes... I love the vibrant colours, the taste of Goan life in all your photos :-)

  52. Pink is such a verstile colour! In South East Asia there are no issues with boys wearing it.

    Looks fantastic. I am partial to a Roti with curry (malay style) for breakfast.

    I will do India one day. I will I will.

  53. I love different cultures, but I think I'd cry if I had to have curry for breakfast. I need my pancakes and syrup!!

  54. Fantastic photos. Makes me want to visit too!
    Hugs x

  55. Loving all these photos in the gray, old rural US ... so happy to see them. Food photos are putting weight on me as I read ... NO FAIR ... but don't stop showing them!


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Lots of love, Vix