Friday 25 January 2013

Freezing & Chillin' - Travels In Goa Part 2



I'm not a winter person, these freeze-your-tits-off conditions will be the death of me. It took me ages to get dressed earlier (mind you, I was up at 4am so I had time to kill). Jon raised his eyebrows at my high-heeled wellies but guess who needed me to hold his hand all the way into town? Yep, the bloke wearing the "sensible" boots.


Anyway, time for part two of our trip.


So, you know how we're not a couple for advance planning? Well, sometimes it can go a bit wrong. We'd intended to spend our second week in the ruined city of Hampi, a seven hour train ride across the border in Karnataka, but sadly there wasn't a seat to be had for love nor money so instead we headed off further down the Goan coast to Agonda.


The last time we stayed here was in 2005. There's me with blonde hair, less than a week before my hip replacement.


Back then this Christian fishing hamlet consisted of little more than a single hut camp, a tourist restaurant and the village store. These days its listed in the Rough Guide and there's beach shacks, guest houses and encampments galore, but as you can see, Benidorm it ain't.


We got the taxi to drop us off on the main road, I sat with the bags under a palm tree whilst Jon walked up the beach in search of accommodation. (Travel tip 1- never to wander around with your luggage, people will know you're homeless and bump up the room rates.)


This was our accommodation, a sweet little beach chalet complete with mosquito net, attached bathroom and the sound of the waves crashing on the shore. Jon negotiated the cost down to just over a £5 a night. (Travel tip 2 - don't be afraid to haggle if the room rate is beyond your budget, if you're polite no-one will be offended and it often works wonders).


Beach life means rising with the sun and walking along the shore, watching the fishermen unloading their catch.


Then we'd pop into Reshma's village store for a breakfast of pav bhaji (spicy vegetable curry served with local bread) washed down with a mug of hot, sweet chai. Eating with the locals virtually guarantees delicious, cheap & authentic food, breakfast cost us under 40p each. The shop keeper also sold crisp home made vegetable samosas (at around 12p ) which he'd wrap in newspaper so we could have a picnic on the beach later. 


Our days were spent on the beach, swimming in the warm sea and seeking shelter under the fishing boats, 


and we weren't the only ones.


After watching the sun set we'd pop back to the hut for a shower.


Then eat and drink at one of the many beach shacks,


doing our best not to upset the locals.


 Jimmy B Malcolm (Bob Marley's cousin) held a free concert in the village while we were there.


Don't let that fool you, Agonda is no party place. Most places close at 10pm so it was back to the hut for a rum and cola before bed. Travel tip 3 - always carry a bottle of your favourite tipple in your backpack.


The main road on a Saturday night! Agonda's possibly one of the most chilled out places you'll ever find in India.

Crochet poncho (made by my mum in the 1960s),  Floppy felt hat (the gorgeous Zoe),  1970s wellies (Jumble sale), Hot pink tights (Helga the great), Beaded earrings (Auroville Ashram, Pondicherry)

Still with me? I'll be back with part three shortly.

I think we're having a quiet one this weekend, the snow's falling thick and fast, there's rum in the freezer and the fire's ablaze.

Have a fab weekend & see you soon.

77 comments:

  1. Again - looks like you had a fab time - and although you don't like winter you do look fab in the snow!

    www.mancunianvintage.com

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  2. It looks so lovely, so funny to look at the beach pics then the final snow photo. Bit of a shock to the system! xx

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  3. Love that beach chalet & the price! Your photographs & descriptions are beautiful....I can see why you go there.

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  4. Aaah, India looks like paradise at the mo!! Hating this snow too...!!
    I honestly can't imagine you with blonde hair!!!gaaaah!!

    Great travel tips, too!! Trust you vix!
    Enjoy your rum, I'm having whiskey in honour of rabbie burns!!
    XO

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  5. Yay for part 2! That beach looks like a real paradice :) And those cows, so neat! I remember when I went to Russia (we visited quite a small town), there were always few cows hanging around, resting and blocking the road. It was a bizarre view, as I thought it only happens in India.

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  6. that little cottage near the sea is so wonderful, missing the sound of the waves right now! your wellies are killer.

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  7. Your trip to Goa looks wonderful and all that sun and sand - fab!! What a contrast to the cold and miserable weather we've got here in the UK.

    I've been wearing P's winter boots out and about for the past week. They may be four sizes too big for me (easily remedied by wearing three pairs of socks) but at least they've got a wonderful thick tread on the soles - no slipping on the ice for me. And as he is enjoying the balmy weather that passes for winter in Hong Kong, I could wear them with impunity.

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  8. Wonderful, wonderful photos.

    I didn't realize you had a hip replacement. Does it give you trouble or are you fully recovered?

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  9. Wow!! Those beach huts are wonderful. Love all the cow photos, more please!! Goa looks fantastic, not touristy at all. Was it free of gap year hipsters? Bet you're pissed off with the weather, it's pretty depressing. Stock up on booze and cheese xxxx

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  10. Such a shame you have to hide your beautiful vacation bod under all those winter clothes! I can really relate. My husband hates to plan ahead..which has made for some adventure filled vacations! Yikes! You had a hip replacement? And there you are stomping around in big boots. Oh Vix, you give me hope!
    Connie*

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  11. Your pics are fab Vix, I love the sunset one especially.
    Great outfit today, lovely colours.
    Dx

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  12. it looks so beautiful there, love all the animals just hanging around x

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  13. oooh I can feel the sand between my toes.....love Agonda but it has soooo changed last time I was there in 2010 we had cocktails on the beach!!! Can't wait for next installment welcome back!!x

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  14. Welcome back Vix! Your pics are amazing, it looks gorgeous over there. Hope it's not too much a shock to the system being back! xx

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  15. It looks idyllic! And the perfect escape from this crappy weather!
    I love your mums poncho with the hat! xx

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  16. I remember it well. Love all those authentic curries and bhaji's all for tuppence ha'penny, great to see your photo's. Wrap up warm now, more snow forecast for the Midlands tomorrow.

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  17. I think it looks delightful and I'd love having cows just randomly lying about on the beach. I don't like how they are tethered through the nose in Thailand, seems very nasty but I suppose it saves many a cow from being wiped out by mad tourists on mopeds. The snow is all but gone down here now, just a few dangerously icy patches of it left, I almost fell on my arse a few times going to the shops earlier.
    Have a great Friday night.
    Lot's of love,
    Jennie
    xXx

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  18. fabulous and useful travel tips, I think trip nº3 is the wisest thing I've ever read about travels!
    So glad you've enjoyed a nice time, it seems such a peaceful and sunny place!
    And love your poncho and pink tights!, you can cheer up any freezing day!, and your boots are Really Sensible Shoes!!
    besos & happy weekend

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  19. It looks so wonderful and I love the beach huts and the beach photos. Stay warm, love I don't think this snow is done just yet. Have a great weekend.
    xxxxxxxxxx

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  20. Looks just perfect! And I love the way you relay your travel escapades and tips.... I want to book a flight and head off there right now :-)

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  21. Goa seems like great value! I fear I couldn't share a beach with cows, I would be too scared x

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  22. For just 5 minutes or so I have been transported from cold snowy Weardale to a land of sun, sea and sand, fantastic! Can't wait for the next installment. xxx

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  23. It looks beautiful, that little beach hut is the stuff that dreams are made of. I hope you don't mind me saying, but you look so much happier now than you did in that older photo of you there. Beautiful. x

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  24. Fabulous pics, Vix. I need to go back to India one day soon. It's going to be a whole 6 degrees here in London tomorrow. Excited! Xx

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  25. I can see why you both never tire of India~ the beach, chilled out vibe, cheap but good food and accommodations and the weather looks so good right now! I still trip out every time I see that girl with the blond hair...who is she?:) I love the picture you snapped of the ghost rider down a quiet main street!

    You brighten up that snow like no other girl in all of the UK! I love your granny poncho and the fact that your Mum made it, makes it extra special!

    I wanted to try and call you today but I don't want to bug you so soon after getting home. Let me know when we can have a good catch up.

    ILOVEYOU!!!!!!
    XXOO tell Jon I said what up!!!!!!

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  26. wow it's snowing and 15 freaking degrees here but just looking at your travel pictures makes me feel so much warmer and cheerful.

    Seeing the blonde you--you were definitely born to have black hair!!!


    I am crushing on that poncho!!! I need to make me a crochet hippie poncho!!

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  27. Just now catching up with your adventure - part 1 and part 2. What a fab way to spend some time on this cold winter afternoon, seeing the sights through your lens. And the best sight of all - you back at your blog post!

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  28. Ah, bliss! What a wonderful and restful place to visit.
    Your Indian breakfast sounds delightful and I love seeing all the sweet cows hanging about. Thank you SO much for sharing so I can dream of visiting too. :)
    Have a restful weekend.
    xxx

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  29. What a fabulous, and freeing way to travel. Love your little beach hut and the friendly beasts that surrounded you. You and Jon look so happy there!

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  30. Your holiday pics are the best! It looks so beautiful and chilled and happy, your trips to India must make for such great memories,
    Loving your mum's hippy chick poncho, and she would LOVE the fact that you are still rocking the hell out of it!
    Keep warm, darling, stoke that fire up! xxxx

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  31. I'm also loving the ghost bike rider. Who need "nightlife" when there's a beach and all that beauty?

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  32. Blonde!!!!! So different! All of the places look perfect :) I love your mom's crochet poncho!!

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  33. This looks like the best holiday ever! Must be a shock getting back to the winter - give me the sun any day!

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  34. Ah Vix, you've always been a raven-haired lass at heart! I can't imagine the shock to one's system coming from Goa, and wearing a bikini all day, to the miserable cold and snow and having to bundle up. I never go anywhere warm in the winter so I haven't had that experience, but I do so love to see your photos of your trips to Goa; it's a mini vacation for me ;)

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  35. Sounds like the perfect holiday!
    Ah, it's so similar to Thailand, it makes me Thai-sick! I SO need to come to India, I reckon G and I are gonna feel right at home there!
    You are a Blossom of Joy in the bleakness of that snow! Staying in where it's warm with the cats and a nice bevvie or two is the right idea, I reckon. On this side of the wrold, we are about to go out to Waikuku for a swim at the beach follwed by dinner and band practice! It's been so hot here we're all grizzling! Bizarro!
    Love Helga xxxXXXxxx

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  36. How lovely. Hope you're enjoying yourself. Great pink tights.

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  37. Sounds like a restfully authentic trip for the two of you. Loved seeing the sweet little shack by the beach you stayed in. So much better than any "all inclusive" resort. I hate that kind of vacation. Never done it, never will!
    Great poncho! I wish I had my old one from the 60's.

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  38. SO beautiful! You, the poncho, the snow! And India - the baby cow at the restaurant! Everything is so gorgeous and I LOVE seeing pics of you from a few years ago. You were gorgeous as a blonde but I can't imagine you going back to blonde now. More pics more pics more pics and adventure stories please!

    Love you more than sweet chai and samosas! Sarah xxx

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  39. I love reading about your travel adventures, and thank you for the tips, will re use when I next travel. Picnic ont he beach, and what a bargain it was, bet it tasted delicious. Really fancy a veggie curry now even tho its only before 9am. Thank you for sharing all your wonderful photos x

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  40. At least you're managing to look fabulous in the snow and cold! Love the poncho and wellies - had to giggle at the thought of you helping your sensible shoed man along in the snow!
    Your holiday looks like chilled out, balmy, beachside heaven!

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  41. Love to watch those pics and read your adventures. Great travel tips btw. We thought about booking the flight and a guest house for the 1st night but i'm afraid we'll find a good accomodation cause we've never been there before and always booked the complete holiday package here at home. Guess it's going to be a great adventure since i wanted to visit goa since 2008 but never made it... More parts of Goa adventures please !!! Fab post !!! XX Tani

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  42. You look like a vision in the snow, I love all the bright colours and your poncho is fabulous!!!
    The places you visited are fantastic, the chalet were you and Jon stayed is lovely and it's amazing to see all the pretty cows enjoying the beach and the night life, the photo at the Italian restaurant is amazing, it looks like the baby cows are reading the menu!!
    You should write a guide-book with all your great tips!
    Love xxxxxxxx

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  43. FABULOUS! Despite your telling us how wonderfully cheap the holiday was, I have to say that the experiences you had couldn't be bought for love nor money. It sounds like you were in a totally charmed bubble.

    Much love,
    Rosemary from www.foreveronthecatwalkoflife.blogspot.com

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  44. i will be here for round 3 again..i have to say i have heard hampi is a beautiful place but never been there..and i love pav bhaji though as a street food it is typically sold more on the other side if india..well calcutta(where i live) also has great street food.

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  45. I love your travel tales of the unexpected. I am starting to plan a trip to India with my husband in January 2019 when my youngest son will be 18.
    Love your wellies. I love my wedge wellies so much.

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  46. Thank you for all these wonderful pics. Don't think I will ever make it there in my lifetime so it is so much fun to view it from your eyes. Love your wonderful fringe poncho. As usual, you look stunning.

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  47. thanks for sharing your holiday experiences and pictures with us .... it's just like a tiny holiday for the hard working people at home ;)

    love your pink/wine red winter outfit on the snow!

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  48. Love the pics Vix
    Adorable beach chalet and that Italian place in the village so cool!
    Love the cows allover the place
    Love the granny square poncho
    Very colorful we need colors so miserably cold!
    So sick of it ,we are getting warmer temps next week, thank god

    Ariane xxxx

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  49. Hi there! It sounds so warm and welcoming where you stayed and really the perfect way to spend your days, just lazing and swimming, lucky you! Gorgeous pictures too and you both look so happy and radiant! xxx

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  50. Hanging on your every word and admire how you travel with learned spontaneity. And a concert by Bob Marley's cousin must have been a treat! Looking forward to more.

    The poncho created by your Mum spectacular, as are you in it!

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  51. What a beautiful place and thanks for all the tips.
    You look like you will be able to melt some of that snow with all of your amazing pink and burgundy outfit!

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  52. Oh what a lovely few moments that was, even the boy got sucked in and he's usually allergic to blogs. There was talk of Goa in this household the other night and I think it is fair to say you are responsible!
    I don't know if I would have recognised you as a blonde, even though you were obviously still quite the babe, but just so different.
    Thanks for sharing your travel tips, they are sound. xxx

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  53. Beautiful!

    And the scenery's not bad too! I feel like I was almost there with you x

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  54. Goa seems to be quite the magical place, especially when you are there. :)

    I adore your outfit. Those pink leggings are spectacular, especially with your makeup. I love that lip color on you. xoxo

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  55. Your pictures are gorgeous! I'm so happy for you - it's so important to have great holidays in a beautiful place))
    Also - the crochet poncho is amazing! Love it on you)

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  56. Oh welcome back Vix!!!! I am sorry I missed your first post back, just had a look, WOW you look amazing, I was so happy to see the bikini that came from the shop through Helga!!!!
    Now look at all these beautiful photographs I do love when you come back from India and we get to see what life is like in this exotic place.
    Man it must be so cold for you and Jon!!!! What a change.
    Take care.
    Love V

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  57. Fabulous... I felt as though I came along as a stowaway! *Winks*

    Dawn... The Bohemian

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  58. It looks so idyllic there Vix, love the pic of you on the beach hut verandah. Love the cows on the beach, they remind me of Pat's daughter's wedding video. She married an African boy in his village and a herd of cows walk along the beach as they're all celebrating, it was so different from a wedding here, I really wished we could have gone. Love the travel tips too, just need to go somewhere to use them now! xx

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  59. You're back! I've missed the Vixeninspiration! Got to mention the picture of you in your bikini in the sunset. SO BEAUTIFUL!

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  60. Love your photo's. The one with the palm-trees is gorgeous.
    I would love to wake up one day in that little chalet you stayed in. It looks so lovely and with the sound of the sea...... <3
    And how cheap it is overthere. You cann't get a proper meal below 10 euro's overhere.
    Hope that it is getting better now at your place. That the snow is melting.... Overhere it is a warmer now and the snow is almost gone! yeah. :D
    xxxxx

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  61. Welcome home Vix. SO good to have you back. Your Goa pics and experiences look and sound lovely but I'm always glad to see your brightly coloured winter layers again. This poncho is no exception xxx

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  62. Agonda looks so beautiful. I love those photos of cows chilling out everywhere.
    Your poncho is fabulous. Beautiful & useful, what more could you ask of it?

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  63. It looks like you had a wonderful trip. And I wish I could visit someplace warm on this cold winter day.

    http://heidiswanderings.blogspot.com/

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  64. Love all those beautiful cows on the beach! I hope that you and Jon didn't have any of the 'Sterilized Salad' on offer at the restaurant!! :) x

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  65. I've got the urge to travel just from reading these two posts. The tales of yours and Jon's adventuring in India are truly inspirational. Have to say that the contrast between the beach and you in the snow in 'heeled wellies' is surreal!

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  66. Thanks for another great post sharing your travels. As a blond you blended with the beach hut, but now, it is VIX IS HERE!! Fantastic, and you and Jon look so happy and relaxed!!

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  67. I love all of the photos! It's nice to see warmth and sunshine. It's been so darn cold here!

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  68. Aaaaaah I hope to use your travel tips in future, particularly Tip #1 - very clever indeed! It's a shame you didn't make it to your first choice of destination but, like you, I wouldn't change my mode of travel - spur-of-the-moment travel plans are my favourite kind!! I love the wee cabin you ended up with, especially the striped coconut trees:). The pic of you as a blond, knowing as I do now that you were on the verge of such a major op, you look calm yet trepidatious. God I love you as a brunette - so freakin' hot, I reckon you could MELT all that snow! Love ya baby xoxoxoxoxo

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  69. Love your round robin trip posts. You took some beautiful photo's i would so like to be there right now it looks and sounds like an amazing place and it looks so peaceful. Love your mums ponco to. dee xx

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  70. Ohhh, those beach pics with the smooth rocks looks so beautiful and with warm added-Wow, must have been a little slice of heaven!
    Here in the Pacific NW we don't even call the place where the ocean meets the land, the beach-it's "The Coast", cuz it's cold, gray and people go there to storm watch, not play in the ocean. Beaches like that seem magical, and more cows, love it!!
    You also look so cute in that poncho!! My grandmother made a couple but have never worn them, might have to pull them out of storage seeing you rock yours so well!;)

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  71. I'm so jealous, your travels look wonderful!!

    Have you ever been poorly from the food over there? I really want to go to India one day but would be worried about getting a bad stomach while I was there, but the food looks so delicious!

    Lx

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  72. So much glorious culture, it’s so amazing to hear about your time and travels in Goa. What a beautiful, beautiful place xxx

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  73. Lovely photos, and great travelling tips!

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  74. Your chalet looks just perfect, the cows would absolutely make it for me though, I love a bit of wildlife! x

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  75. Imagining my holidays in Goa with my friends and all that fun that's going to be happen there. Thanks for your posts. Here provided stuff is quite informative, useful and will help a lot during vacations.

    5 Star Hotels in Panaji Goa

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Thanks for reading and for leaving a message. Please don't be anonymous, I'd love it if you left a name (or a nom de plume).

Lots of love, Vix