Freezing & Chillin' - Travels In Goa Part 2

I'm not a winter person, these freeze-your-tits-off conditions will be the death of me. It took me ages to get dressed earlier (mind you, I was up at 4am so I had time to kill). Jon raised his eyebrows at my high-heeled wellies but guess who needed me to hold his hand all the way into town? Yep, the bloke wearing the "sensible" boots.

Anyway, time for part two of our trip.

So, you know how we're not a couple for advance planning? Well, sometimes it can go a bit wrong. We'd intended to spend our second week in the ruined city of Hampi, a seven hour train ride across the border in Karnataka, but sadly there wasn't a seat to be had for love nor money so instead we headed off further down the Goan coast to Agonda.

The last time we stayed here was in 2005. There's me with blonde hair, less than a week before my hip replacement.

Back then this Christian fishing hamlet consisted of little more than a single hut camp, a tourist restaurant and the village store. These days its listed in the Rough Guide and there's beach shacks, guest houses and encampments galore, but as you can see, Benidorm it ain't.

We got the taxi to drop us off on the main road, I sat with the bags under a palm tree whilst Jon walked up the beach in search of accommodation. (Travel tip 1- never to wander around with your luggage, people will know you're homeless and bump up the room rates.)

This was our accommodation, a sweet little beach chalet complete with mosquito net, attached bathroom and the sound of the waves crashing on the shore. Jon negotiated the cost down to just over a £5 a night. (Travel tip 2 - don't be afraid to haggle if the room rate is beyond your budget, if you're polite no-one will be offended and it often works wonders).

Beach life means rising with the sun and walking along the shore, watching the fishermen unloading their catch.

Then we'd pop into Reshma's village store for a breakfast of pav bhaji (spicy vegetable curry served with local bread) washed down with a mug of hot, sweet chai. Eating with the locals virtually guarantees delicious, cheap & authentic food, breakfast cost us under 40p each. The shop keeper also sold crisp home made vegetable samosas (at around 12p ) which he'd wrap in newspaper so we could have a picnic on the beach later. 

Our days were spent on the beach, swimming in the warm sea and seeking shelter under the fishing boats, 

and we weren't the only ones.

After watching the sun set we'd pop back to the hut for a shower.

Then eat and drink at one of the many beach shacks,

doing our best not to upset the locals.

 Jimmy B Malcolm (Bob Marley's cousin) held a free concert in the village while we were there.

Don't let that fool you, Agonda is no party place. Most places close at 10pm so it was back to the hut for a rum and cola before bed. Travel tip 3 - always carry a bottle of your favourite tipple in your backpack.

The main road on a Saturday night! Agonda's possibly one of the most chilled out places you'll ever find in India.

Crochet poncho (made by my mum in the 1960s),  Floppy felt hat (the gorgeous Zoe),  1970s wellies (Jumble sale), Hot pink tights (Helga the great), Beaded earrings (Auroville Ashram, Pondicherry)

Still with me? I'll be back with part three shortly.

I think we're having a quiet one this weekend, the snow's falling thick and fast, there's rum in the freezer and the fire's ablaze.

Have a fab weekend & see you soon.