Sunday, 14 December 2025

Una Paloma Blanca - More Tales from Tenerife



It was Friday and, once again we awoke to glorious sunshine, eating breakfast on the balcony.


The previous day Jon, aka Dr Dolittle, had made friends with a pair of doves* nesting in the banana trees below our balcony. We'd brought home some Moroccan flatbread from last night's dinner which they took from his fingers.

*Paloma blanca is Spanish for white dove - sorry about the dreadful earworm, I'm sure those of us of a certain age will remember that song by George Baker from 1975!



Once dressed we walked up to the municipal market for a rummage at the rastro (the flea market) but after our 30 minute hike discovered that the council had changed the day to a Saturday. You may remember that I found an amazing 1970s block printed Indian dress for €4 last year (HERE). 


 

We made our way to Sitio Litre (the orchid gardens) which, at over 280 years old, are the oldest gardens on Tenerife. 

The mansion continues to be inhabited by the descendants of the Smiths, the English family who created the gardens in 1774 and, over the years, Marianne North (1830 - 1890), the English botanist and botanical artist; the German polymath, Alexander Von Humboldt (1769 - 1859); novelist Agatha Christie (1890 - 1976) and Oscar's Wilde's father, Dr William Wilde (1815 - 1876) were all guests there. 


The garden contains Puerto's biggest and oldest dragon tree.


Here's the same tree, painted by Marianne North over 150 years ago and on display in the Marianne North gallery in Kew Gardens.

Source



We usually have lunch in the Cafe Orquidia but being earlier than usual we opted for cappucinos instead. I normally hate cream but was ravenous after the hike up the hill! The cafe is famed throughout the island for their English cream teas with the scones made to the owner's great grandmother's recipe. We've never had one but they do look amazing! 




And of course, being an quintessentially English garden, there's even a croquet lawn! 





The gardens are open daily from 9.30 until 2.30 , admission is €4.75


After visiting her 1927 hangout, we followed our visit to Sitio Litre with a hike up the Agatha Christie steps, with each riser bearing the name of one of her books...she was a prolific writer so expect a steep climb! 







The steps lead to the mirador (or viewpoint) at La Paz*, offering spectacular views across the city. 

* This is a residential area of Puerto de la Cruz and not the Bolivian capital although the altitude isn't dissimilar!


We weren't alone! 


The alluring turquoise of El Lago, the municipal's lido's artificial lake was calling me....it was time for a swim.


One of my favourite places in Puerto, the breathtakingly beautiful Lago Martianez, designed by the celebrated Canarian artist, César Manrique.


Completed in 1971, there's five salt water pools of varying sizes. My favourite, El Lago, is 15,000 M² with a circumference of a kilometre. I love swimming under the bridges, past the artificial islands and beneath the waterfalls.




As you can see from the huge waves crashing over the lido walls, the Coastal Phenomenom was still battering the island. 


We bought lunch from one of the very reasonably priced snack bars, €3 for a sandwich and €3 for a big beer. My tortilla bocadillo was huge - and delicious! 


Being in the foothills of Mount Tiede, the skies are constantly changing, the clouds often look very threatening but it stayed dry throughout our stay. On the Friday we visited it was a glorious 25°C and we spent the rest of the afternoon basking in the sunshine. 







The lido is open every day, all year round. Admission is €7 per person with concessions for residents. You can also buy season tickets if you're staying a fortnight or longer. More info HERE






Time to hit the town!


After a couple of beers in our favourite bar we walked down to the seafront where we'd got a table booked for dinner.  


This young man is one of the many talented musicians you'll see performing in Puerto by night. It reminds me of that scene from The Fisher King, when passers-by abandon their shopping, seize their partner's hand and break into a waltz. 


We ate at Persia_Tenerife and our dinner was just as spectacular as it was last year.


We walked back to the Old Town and popped into El Drago, another of the tiny bodegas lining the street outside our hotel.


And, of course, there was more live music!


It was my birthday eve...adiós 58....hola 59!

What would tomorrow bring?

56 comments:

  1. ¡Qué manera tan maravillosa de pasar tu cumpleaños!

    You are responsible for some unusual ingredients being added to the weekly shopping basket, barraquitos are on the menu!

    Thanks for your kind words about the weather - over 8” already today at Honister, everywhere from Thirlmere to the coast is on Flood Alert; it’s really foul here and I feel so sorry for anyone living close to a river. River levels will continue to rise for a day or two as the water comes off the hills.

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    1. Muchos gracias, amor!!
      I'm dying to hear your thoughts on barraquitos, we're obsessed with them.
      I hope you managed to escape unscathed and the flood didn't happen. It's been truly absymal here, I don't think its got light all day today...roll on the solstice! xxx

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  2. I didn’t know what an ear worm was until I read the title! Now I’m listening to it on Alexa! “No one can take my freedom away” Husband thinks I’m mad, he wasn’t born until 1978.,

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    1. Sorry for anon, Sarah. X

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    2. Oh dear, I'm sorry about introducing you to that song! we had to perform to it in a school play many years ago, its so bad! xxx

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  3. What a wonderful Birthday trip! You always find great ways to enjoy yourselves. JanF

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  4. That song takes me right back to 1976 and my first visit to Spain.

    It's warmed up to -8 but, well no buts, it's still freezing. Ice cream is under a bucket on the back steps, lol.

    Hope the rest of your trip was as warm and happy as the first bit.

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    1. Jon picked up a pile of vintage vinyl in a charity shop the other day, in it was an album called Benidorm 1977 - Una Paloma Blanca is on it! I'm not sure if he'll be playing it!
      I'm glad things have wamed up a tad. It's mild here but I'd trade those temperatures for no rain and some daylight! xxx

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  5. Hi Vix, a belated Happy Birthday or Feliz Cumpleaños to you! I first visited Puerto de la Cruz in 1981 as a teenager on holiday with my parents. Avidly reading your holiday journal I think I need to return and make new discoveries especially of the many beautiful gardens and El Lago. I am still continuing my studies in Spanish too so can put that to the test as well. I remember buying nice lace items and embroidery all those years ago. We subsequently visited Los Gigantes a number of years ago and I finally got to go up Mount Teide. It looks like you had a great time.

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    1. Hola, Alysia! I'm impressed with your Spanish, those studies are paying off! Yes, you really do need to revisit Puerto de la Cruz. I never thought I'd fall in love with Tenerife but I absolutely have (although I'm pretty sure we'd hate the South!). I'm not sure if I'd ever be able to tempt Jon up Mount Teide but I'm really keen to visit - maybe there's a nearby bar I could leave him in! xxx

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  6. Oops that was me, Alysia x

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  7. Belated birthday wishes you fabulous girl. Looks like a great holiday. I think when you give up festivals you should organise holiday groups. Julie xxx

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  8. It all looks so inviting!! I've recently become addicted to 'A Place in the Sun' and they were recently in Puerto de la Cruz. The couple appearing on the show had a budget of £80,000 for which they wanted a cavehouse (interesting structures which I liked) 4 bedrooms, an outdoor barbecue area and a swimming pool! Needless to say, they had to compromise on the pool!!That lido looks lovely! Xxx

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    1. I saw that episode too, love a cave house! Vix?

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    2. Hello, Annie & Betty! I need to check out that episode, I go through phases of being addicted to A Place in the Sun and its usually around this time of year when I'm craving sunshine.
      We visited a couple of cave houses in Gran Canaria when we went on a trip with a local, they're amazing places and often incredibly cheap although that couple's ideas sounded extremely optimistic!
      That pool is just fabulous, I'd be there every day if I lived there - it never closes! xxx

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  9. Looks lije you have had a great time. Happy birthday! I climbed halfway up mount Tiede age about 23 i think a cable car is now the popular choice! Hope you were still able to do the market on the newly allocated day. How disappointing to find it had changed. Betty

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    1. We had a fantastic time, I love it more each time I visit, it jjust feels so authentically Canarian, not touristy at all.
      I'd love to visit Mount Teide, I've inherited my Dad's love of mountains. I dont think I'd ever get Jon up there but if there was a bar nearby I might stand a chance! xxx
      PS Looking forward to hearing about your trip!

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  10. What a way to celebrate your birthday. It looks amazing, and your food looks mouthwatering. You know me, I like my food. I love the orange kaftan you’re wearing. Anything to do with Agatha Christie is fine by me, she’s definitely one of my favourite authors. Xxx

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    1. Thanks, Louise! Puerto de la Cruz actually hosts an Agatha Christie festival every November...one for the bucket list? xxx

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  11. Thank you for another dose of glorious sunshine - the earworm, not so much :-)
    What a shame about the flea market, I'm wondering if you went back the next day?
    The orchid gardens are stunning, as is that mansion, and I would gladly climb all those Agatha Christie steps for that spectacular view which awaits at the top!
    El Lago looks breathtakingly beautiful indeed, and it looks like you had that pool almost to yourself! xxx

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    1. I must be going weird in my old age, Ann! I decided to go sightseeing in the next town rather than shop at the flea market...I didn't even visit the charity shops this time!! xxx

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  12. Wow, the manor house is beautiful. The garden is lovely too.
    Lago Martianez is incredible. How small you look in that large pool!
    I'm really looking forward to your birthday.

    Belated and heartfelt best wishes for your birthday!

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    1. Thank you so much, Andrea! On the countdown to your birthday now! xxx

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  13. Looks like you are having a marvelous birthday getaway. Love both the tree and the painting of the tree.

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    1. Those trees are fantastic - their sap is red so it looks like they're bleeding when they're damaged! xxx

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  14. Happy Birthday, Vix! You and Jon both have such awesome style when you vacation - I'm sure you get compliments by the truckload! How cool that tree is still around! The enormous swimming pool is fantastic!

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  15. Happy Birthday Vix - I must say you do look Gorgeous - Radiant with happiness - and Lord Jon is a very good man - flis xx

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  16. This is post so full of joy and hope. Thank you. Happy birthday lovely.
    rsrue.blogspot.com

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  17. What a treat! Those pools! Great photos. Thanks for the wonderful travel writing. Such lovely outfits for this trip! Oh, and those drinks look marvelous!

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  18. Wonderful photos from the trip!!
    Happy birthday Vix!
    They say that at this age a person experiences the greatest happiness!!
    Be strong, travel and smile!!

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  19. Happy birthday Vix. Glad to see you both are enjoying some sunshine. The house and gardens look wonderful , I always so enjoy your travel posts.

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  20. The Dragon tree is so impressive!!! I love the Christie steps!!!
    The pools look dreamy! Would very much like to visit those! The food looks very tasty too and lovely to have live music!

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    1. Its such a fabulous plac, Kezzie - so authentic and live music everywhere...I'd live there in a heartbeat and would probably develop fins after visiting that pool every day! xxx

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  21. thankyou for the sunshine , its much needed

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    1. Isn't it grim? Today's particularly miserable! xxx

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  22. Oh gosh that song, THAT earworm ... and I didn't know it meant one white dove. What a lovely December holiday, and I bet you had a wonderful birthday while you were there. Wishing you a belated Happy Birthday. :-)

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    1. Sorry about that, Sue - mind you, it makes a change from Whamageddon! xxx

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  23. Hola Vix from Corralejo! Chasing the winter sun. Happy belated birthday to you! So pleased you had a fabulous time and it looks stunning there and you look so happy. Louise (Mids) x x x

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    1. Hola, Louise! I know you'll be having a fantastic time in Corralejo, you lucky thing! xxx

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  24. Happy belated birthday to you!. Can't imagine a better way to celebrate it!, so lovely post!.
    Totally in love with the sun, the fab gardens and those pools (even if probably too cold for my taste!). And yes, thanks for that earworm Paloma Blanca ;DDD
    Your posts have encouraged me to give Tenerife another try, we'll travel in March, if possible!.
    besos

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    1. Thanks so much, Monica!! I'm excited that you're planning to visit Tenerife again. The North really is magical and, of course, you can fly from Spain to the island's North Airport, only 30 minurtes on the bus to Puerto de la Criz from there! xxx

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  25. Hi Vix,
    I'm impressed with your photos and your outfits! The orchid house is beautiful, the garden, the stairs, everything! That pool looks so inviting! I loved this post! You two are a phenomenal couple! Hugs

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    1. You are so kind and lovely, Marisa! Thank you so much! xx

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  26. Once again, happy birthday and all the best. It seems you had a lovely birthday evening...and in a place like that, I imagine it is easier than most. Lovely photographs of Tenerife. That cat dozing while sunbathing is adorable. The doves eating from your hand are certainly a sight one does not see every day. So lovely they were so friendly. Making animal friends is always special, isn't it?
    I really like your maxi dress...and the photos of you swimming are wonderful. That seawater pool look enormous. I'd love to swim in a pool like that. I like to swim under bridges, too...Swimming slowly and enjoying the views is one of my favourite things to do.

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    1. Thanks, Ivana! We were transfixed by those sweet doves, I don't rememebr ever being that close to a bird before - unless you count those evil seagulls who steal your chips at the seaside! xxx

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  27. Hi Vix, that pool looks splendid! X

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    1. I wish our council pool looked like that! xxx

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Thanks for reading and for leaving a message. Please don't be anonymous, I'd love it if you left a name (or a nom de plume).

Lots of love, Vix