On Monday, day three of our five night stay on Tenerife, we ate breakfast outside on the terrace and then went for a walk.
Once again it was wonderfully warm and sunny. I thought I was being overly optimistic packing my off-the-shoulder Pink City Prints dress, last seen in Santorini less than eight weeks ago, but the weather couldn't have been more perfect.
We passed the small fortress of San Felipe built in 1604 to defend the town from pirates.
And wandered along Playa de Jardin, one of Puerto de la Cruz's five black sand beaches.
You can see why it's called Playa del Jardin (garden beach), can't you? These colourful gardens are backed with shady woodland which extends to the slopes of Mount Teide.
We stumbled upon the town's cemetery, with its sweet scented rambling roses and the air of tranquility and calm, it seemed rather odd to have a lotto kiosk on the gate although they do say that life's a lottery.
We headed to The Plaza de Europa hoping to visit the Old Customs House, now home to the town's Museum of Contemporary Art, only to discover that it was closed, so admired the statue dedicated to the port's fisherwomen and wandered along the fort walls flanked by some imposing canons installed during the reign of Philip V (1682 - 1746).
I loved how everyone, residents & tourists alike, cast off their clothes and bask in the sun, sprawling on benches, rocks and the ancient walls - these are my people!
The water is so clean here that people dodge the boats to swim in the harbour rather than heading to the beaches or the lido.
We popped into the Museo del Pescador, a privately run maritime museum packed to the rafters with handmade replica models of boats and some seriously groovy festival posters from years gone by.
A marvellously over-the-top interior overloaded with gold leaf and rapturious saints.
My heart skipped a beat when I spotted this gorgeous Art Nouveau cafe in a side street behind the church, with tiled Mucha panels adorning the entrance and that fabulous Belle Epoque swirly script, I insisted we pop in for a beer.
Much as I love sitting outside drinking a beer in the sunshine, I was more than willing to sit indoors and bask in the original decor. Never mind those massive cakes, check out that cash register!
Refreshed and ready for a little more culture, we visited the Archaeological Museum which, as it's currently undergoing refurbishment and, as only a couple of rooms are open, the admission costs have been waived.
We loved these vintage photographs of the islanders, they looked like they were stars from an old time Western.
By now we were absolutely famished so found a restaurant in a shady square and tucked into mushroom omelette & a salad (me), Iberian ham & melon (Jon) accompanied with still-warm, freshly baked bread and a carafe of the house red. Whilst eating we were entertained by one of the many street musicians, this time a Spanish hippy chick playing Vashti Bunyan's 1970 hit (and a favourite song of mine) Just Another Diamond Day on a tenor recorder.
The skies were constantly changing, after lunch the blue had all but disappeared although it was still a balmy 24°C.
We walked up to Playa Martianez and sat spellbound by the waves.
Back at the apartment I took advantage of the deserted rooftop pool and got a few lengths in whilst Jon dipped a toe in, squealed and retreated back to his sunbed.
Earlier in the day we'd noticed a charity shop but it had been closed for siesta so we forfeited our post shower beer on the terrace and walked back for a look. Despite only having carry-on bags I snaffled a 1970s Spanish hand-embroidered flouncy cotton maxi dress and Jon bought a West German 1960s belted tweed overcoat, they were so lovely and such a great price that we decided that we'd worry about how to get them home on Thursday morning!
Dinner was eaten in a very hip and happening cafe bar in Plaza del Charco to the sounds of classic 1990s house expertly mixed by the resident DJ. Jon ate Moroccan lamb with the ubiquitous Papas Arrugadas and I had aubergine cannelloni stuffed with roasted vegetables and red pesto, washed down with some excellent Rioja. We declined the pudding.
After experiencing bathrooms in India that make the toilet in Trainspotting look halfway decent, I'm fascinated by the amazing loos in Europe, there's some great ones in Greece but the Spanish toilets are always exceptional. How pretty are these?
After dinner we went to our favourite hole-in-the-wall bar, mostly frequented by the locals and run by two gorgeous Portuenses (meaning from Puerto de la Cruz) women where we treated ourselves to a couple of large Mojitos for €3 - luckily our apartment was within stumbling distance and we didn't leave our charity shop treasures under the table like we've done in Spoons in the past!
Thanks for reading. Stay tuned for my next instalment.
Many years since we went to Puerto De La Cruz, you’ve brought back some happy memories.
ReplyDeleteWe spent a few Christmas’ in Tenerife when we were young and daft and before Philip’s mum became ill. Thanks for the trip back in time xx
Hello Lynn & Philip! I can understand why you spent a few Xmases on Tenerife. We absolutely loved Puerto de la Cruz, it was such a lovely place, we'd happily go back! xxx
DeleteYour holiday looks wonderful. I'm slightly envious, as I was meant to go to Tenerife many years ago, but ended up in Morocco instead.
ReplyDeleteThank you for The Fall earworm :) Now I'm looking forward to the next instalment. X
Hello Jules! I was very tempted to return to Morocco but Jon was insistent on Tenerife and we absolutely loved it - the culture, the colour and most of all the weather!
DeleteWhen I turned on the radio on Tuesday morning 6Music were playing The Fall, it was a sign! xxx
Hi Vix, What an amazing place to have a dose of sunshine. I've heard of Tenerife but have never seen or met anyone who has been there. Looks lovely and very relaxing. We are battling through storms, lightning and 35 degree weather with high humidity, it's not fun. But thanks for the photos, really enjoyed seeing them.
ReplyDeleteThanks so much, Diane! Tenerife is wonderful, I didn't expect to love it as much as I did. It's amazing to think that less than four hours from the UK we can enjoy heat, sunshine and more than ten hours of daylight! xxx
DeleteOh, trust you to find a thrift shop, Vix! I'm sure you'll get your stuff home okay (wear the coat, Jon). Such wonderful views! I got a poinsettia as a gift today - I hadn't the heart to tell my colleague that I kill plants...
ReplyDeleteYou know mw so well! Funnily enough we'd Googles flea markets before we left and were most upset when we discovered that we'd arrive too late for the Saturday flea market and the Friday car boot sale. I shall plan our flight better next time! xxx
DeleteOh this is wonderful to read on a dull December day. Love armchair travelling with you Vix, I adore your positivity. Brings back memories of our four night stay on the banana island - La Palma - a few years ago. We hired a car and hiked up to the volcano in the National park -(which Chris Packham visited for his recent “Earth” TV series). Our hotel was an old sugar farm surrounded by the most beautiful gardens and the starlight was out of this world. When out and about there were lots of places to stop for the breathtaking views and a freshly squeezed orange juice and a chance to regain equilibrium after driving the switchback mountainous roads. You always look amazing in your colourful dresses and you always smile - thank you! Swimming day for me today - you got me back into swimming after a longish break during Covid and I love how it makes me feel. Sarah in Sussex xx
ReplyDeleteHello Sarah!I'm so pleased that you enjoyed your virtual sunshine. Hasn't it been grim of late? Funnily enough another commenter mentioned La Palma and how she thought I'd love the island, I'm going to have to do some investigating. I'll start with Jon's hero Chris Packham. You old sugar farm sounds absolutely wonderful and just the kind of place we'd want to stay.
DeleteThank you for your kind words, Sarah. I'm often stopped in the street by strangers and told I have a positive aura, I'm always smiling (life's too short not to!)
I'm delighted that you've got back into your swimming, I'm not looking forward to our baths closing for ten days over Xmas/New Year, like you I love how swimming makes me feel. xxx
What a feast for the eyes! Isn't that cemetery pretty? As for that cafe, how fortunate to have stumbled across that. The cash register's amazing too. I dare not mention that to Gareth. He's still kicking himself for not buying one a decade ago. They as rare as hen's teeth now and eye wateringly expensive!
ReplyDeleteLove the look of the maritime museum and the Spanish toilets are gorgeous.
I can't wait to see your charity shop finds. I'd be the same. Worry about getting it home later. Layers I'm guessing? xxx
P.S. I bet you wish you'd packed your swimsuit to join those harbour swimmers!
We loved that cemetary, pretty and so fragrant with the roses and beautiful floral tributes. Isn't it interesting how they inter their loved one remains in the walls?
DeleteFunnily enough I fell in love with an American-made Victorian cash register in a charity shop in Walsall years ago and still kick myself for not buying it. They really are a joy to behold.
Guess where I swam on my birthday? I have video proof coming up very soon! xxx
Ooh that lovely cafe and what a beautiful coastline.
ReplyDeleteWhen we used to holiday on our motorbikes we used to keep a box where we stayed to parcel up and send back any books and charity shop finds - the locals thought we were nutbags lol. We'd post stuff back on our last day and then once home it was such a fab treat when it arrived. Happy days.
Hello Elaine! isn't that cafe wonderful? I could hardly bear to tear myself away and venture back into the sunshine.
DeleteWe used to post stuff back home when we were in India. Opening a package, stitched up by the parcel wallah in a little side street a month previously was so exciting, the contents always smelt of incense! Next time we shall have to do the same in Tenerife, I'm still kicking myself at the lovely vintage dresses I left behind in that charity shop! xxx
Going back for the frocks is the perfect excuse lol!
DeleteWhat a beautiful Cafe <3 Thank you for sharing the colorful Photos. Now i know a little bit about Tenerife.
ReplyDeleteIsn't it stunning? I bet there's beautiful places like that in Vienna, one day I'll find out! xxx
DeleteThank you for the dose of blue sky and sunshine, which was a definite mood-booster at the end of another one of those grey and soggy days!
ReplyDeleteBoth Playa de Jardin and the town's cemetery are gorgeous, and the over-the-top interior of Inglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Peña de Francia is right up my street. As is that stunning Art Nouveau café, from which I would have had trouble tearing myself away.
Can't wait to see your charity shop finds ... I'm guessing Jon wore the coat on the way home? xxx
Thanks, Ann! I'm glad your virtual dose of sunshine helped lift your spirits. I can't tell you how much that short trip improved our winter misery!
DeleteFor once we'd hardly done any research before our trip and were amazed at all the interesting things we kept stumbling across. That cafe took my breath away! xxx
Oh Vix, as I sit here snuffling away with my rotten headcold, I'm so envious of your beautiful trip and the sunshine and warmth and colour. It looks fabulous! I'll look forward to your next installment so I can live vicariously! xx
ReplyDeleteGet well soon, Louise! What rotten luck coming down with a cold. Sending you lots of get well wishes and virtual sunshine. xxx
DeleteOnly you and Jon could manage brilliant charity shop finds on the Canary Islands!
ReplyDeleteIt had to be done! x
DeleteA Spanish charity shop - how exciting! What a beautiful place you found in the Canary Isles. Loved the cemetery, the Belle Epoque cafe and the beautiful little ship museum. I loved the sculpture of the fisherwoman, too - full of vigour! On a drear cold day such as today it's lovely to admire blue skies and heat in your photos. Your Pink City Prints off the shoulder dress was stunning and so right. The loos were magnificent - they put ours to shame. I bet Lord Jon wore his tweed overcoat home...
ReplyDeletexxx
Hello Vronni! Isn't the fisherwoman statue lovely? We sat on a bench and watched everyone who walked past her stop and take a photo with her.
DeleteThe charity shop was so good, you could easily travel with an empty case and buy all you needed when you got there. I'm still kicking myself for leaving an incredible 1960s St Michael maxi dress behind! Tenerife was wonderful, I can see it becoming a regular Winter escape for us. xxx
Gorgeous travelogue!
ReplyDeleteYou look beautiful in that red maxi dress!
Thank you! xxx
DeleteI am loving living vicariously through your post whilst it's so cold and grey and wet here! I'm looking forward to seeing your charity shop finds and what gorgeous plants and flowers.
ReplyDeleteThanks, G! I love seeing things we only consider houseplants growing outdoors in abundance in Tenerife and roses in full bloom! I know the climate's good there but I didn't really believe it till I got there! xxx
DeletePooool envy!!!!
ReplyDeleteIsn't the cemetery beautiful! I've always enjoyed looking at foreign cemetries- so beautiful!x
There's something absolutely fascinating about foreign cemeteries, I can spend ages looking at the photos on the graves. xxx
DeleteLove it! Just what I needed on this cold soggy day xXx
ReplyDeleteThanks, Lulu! It feels like a world away now after all that rain! xxx
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