Another Greek Epic - Kerkyra & The Old Soap Factory

A trip to the island's premier town, Kerkyra (Corfu Town) is always a highlight. As usual we caught the bus from Paleokastritsa. The journey takes around forty minutes, we usually catch the 9.20am there and take the 3pm bus back. 

I've been following Ethnasia on Facebook for ages before I realised that they were based in Corfu Town and was very excited to stumble across their shop within a few minutes of getting off the bus. Their handmade, ethnic-inspired jewellery is just as gorgeous in real life and I was spoilt for choice - in the end buying Third Eye & Ofis pendants, an Ofis ring and another snake-type ring set with gemstones. Stunning & stylish assistant Alexandra was so lovely and made us very welcome, I could probably have browsed the shop all day. 

We'd swooned over the exhibits in The Museum of Asian Art back in 2017 and decided it was high time for a repeat visit. The museum is set within the glorious State Rooms of the Palace of St Michael and St George. 

A passionate collector of Asian art, Gregorios Manos was born in Corfu and rose to become a diplomat. In 1919 when he was Greek Ambassador to Austria, he offered his large collection to the state, on the condition that he could retire on a pension and spend the rest of his days as curator of the museum. Sadly it took until 1927 for any agreement to be reached and Manos died in poverty a year later, reputedly all spent out after a lifetime of collecting. 

I wore my new jewellery straightaway! 

Visitors aren't allowed to photograph the exhibits so, rather than risk getting told off, I pinched this photo from their website. The exhibits are magnificent, comprising hand-painted 18th century silk kimonos, courtesan's masks, Samurai armour and swords, 12th Century Indian erotic art, tribal jewellery, Ming dynasty ceramics, Afghani temple treasures, Khmer Buddha heads, opium pipes, ginger jars and Japanese rice screens. The museum is also hosting temporary exhibition of nomadic textiles which is utterly gorgeous.

At 11.50am we dashed across town to the Patounis Soap Factory, just in time to catch the free tour which takes place every day at midday although the shop is open to customers between 9.30am and 2.30pm

Said to be the oldest soap factory in Greece and one of the few remaining soap factories in the world, the Patounis family have been making hand-crafted soap on Corfu for five generations. Established in 1850, the company moved to its current premises in 1891 and most of the original equipment remains in use today. The factory is listed with the Greek Ministry of Culture as a monument of industrial archaeology and the Patounis soapmaking technique inscribed on the National Inventory of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Greece. 

The soap uses only the basic raw material of traditional soap making; naturally occurring oils, soda, sea salt and water. No artificial fragrances whatsoever. The smell is absolutely amazing.

The factory produces three soaps, olive oil soap (made with pure virgin olive oil) and highly recommended for sensitive skin, green olive soap (made of olive pomace oil which contains chlorophyll) which is renowned for its disinfecting properties as well as being excellent for skin and hair washing (but short hair only, apparently) and green laundry soap (made from olive pomace oil with extra alkaline) which is brilliant for both handwashing and for household chores. Patounis also sell soap flakes which can be used to fill tulle or organza pouches and used as a moth repellent or dissolved in water and used for everything from personal hygiene, fruit & veg prep, cleaning floors, bathrooms and work surfaces, clothes washing or as an organic pesticide. 

Patounis have now discontinued making the Olive-Palm soap due to the ethical issues (deforestation) in its production.

If you're a fan of living museums like The Black Country Museum a visit to the Patounis Soap Factory should go to the top of your list. We loved it. HERE's their website.

Needless to say, we couldn't leave without buying a couple of bars and it is absolutely incredible (and really good value). I've always loved handmade soap but I think this might be the best I've ever tried. If you can't get to Corfu, don't despair, its available online. This UK seller sells Patounis soap on both eBay HERE and Etsy HERE.

Lunch was, as always, eaten al fresco on the Listón, the elegant terrace of shady cafés bordering the Esplanade and reminiscent of Paris's Rue de Rivoli, hardly surprising as the area was designed and built by a Frenchman.

With temperatures in the mid-40s, we made the most of our shady table and lunch was a long and leisurely affair. The food at Aegli, the oldest restaurant in Corfu Town was up to its usual deliciously high standards and, being in such a good spot, the people watching opportunities were second to none. 

If I were as rich as Croesus this sold gold snake headpiece would definitely have come home with me! 

After a final wander through the atmospheric streets it was time to catch the bus home and within minutes of disembarking we'd changed into our swimming gear & were cooling down in our almost-private swimming pool.

Although we only visited Corfu Town once during the fortnight we spent on the island, we did catch the bus back there on our last day as, most conveniently, the airport is a twenty minute walk from the town centre - another reason why travelling with just a small carry-on bag is the sensible choice, especially in 45°C heat!

Stay tuned for my final instalment which hopefully I can squeeze in before we head off to our next festival.