Monday 6 February 2023

A Town Called Teror

In our quest to prove that there's more to the Canary Islands than purpose-built beach resorts, we took the guagua into Gran Canaria's mountainous interior. An independent parish since 1514, the astonishingly pretty town of Teror is one of the oldest urban centres on the island and declared a world heritage site in 1989. 


Teror is known as el corazon verde de Gran Canaria (the green heart of Gran Canaria). Thanks to the considerable winter rainfall, the region has lush ravines, palm groves and an area of rare laurel forest. Above the town, the Caldera de Pina Santo (the holy pine crater) has been declared a protected landscape in recognition of their natural beauty.


Here's the view from the window on the bus:




Being so high up, Teror was a lot cooler than the 21°C daytime temperatures we'd been used to in Las Palmas and we were glad of our scarves and jackets.

On 8th September 1481 the Virgin Mary appeared to some shepherds in the branches of a pine tree in the forest on the outskirts of the town. The Virgin of the Pine became the island's patron saint and pilgrims still travel from near and far to pay her homage. The Basilica de Nuestra Senora del Pino, named in her honour, has been replaced twice, the current church built in 1767.




The Treasure Room is, as you'd expect, stuffed with all manner of religious idolatry. 


Not being in the least bit religious we had to giggle at this woman, she looked like she was trying to flog us a souvenir tea towel rather than lamenting Jesus's death.


You know how it is when you're really not to supposed to but you can't help laughing. The statue with the long blond hair looked like a reject from an Eighties hair metal band. Thank goodness there was no pilgrims around to be offended by our infantile behaviour. 


UPDATED: I've just remembered this man-child cherub, there's something very disturbing about him, isn't there?





For hundreds of years, the faithful have embroidered the flamboyant cloaks that adorn the virgin (above), many of which are on display. I'd wear that red velvet dress in a heartbeat!


The 18th century octagonal clocktower is a replica of the 17th Century original.




The town has some stunning examples of Canarian architecture with traditional carved wooden balconies and red tile roofs, especially on the buildings found in the main street, Calle Real de la Plaza.










This pretty perfumery was doing a roaring trade.


Although this boutique selling handmade, one-off designs was more my thing....


I thought of Sheila and her leather painting skillz when I spotted these jackets. I've been keeping everything crossed that Madonna plays Glastonbury this year, I'm hoping True Blue below is a sign.


Lord Jon was far more interested in this a vintage VW Type 3, on official council business, taking down Teror's famous Xmas lights.





Teresa de Bolivar, the wife of the South American revolutionary, Simon Bolivar, came from Teror and her family crest adorns the square named in her honour. 



The town is renowned for its Chorizo de Teror, a locally produced spreadable garlic sausage.


Jon had some in his bocadillo, mine was made from local goats cheese with grilled pumpkin and beetroot. 









Prized in the UK, it's odd to see Aeonium growing like weeds on the town's roofs!















After several hours of wandering, all that pure mountain air was starting to bite so we hopped back on the guagua and made our way back to Vegueta.

Fancy seeing Teror for yourself?  The 229 leaves the San Telmo bus station in Las Palmas every thirty minutes. The journey costs €3 each way and takes 45 minutes.

Stay tuned for my final instalment.

Thanks for reading & see you soon!



38 comments:

  1. I can't believe this. We are off to Gran Canaria on Saturday. We've never been before. Thank you for the marvellous tips. X

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    1. No way!! I'm jealous, I wish we were still there. I hope you love it as much as we did! Check back on Wednesday for the amazing island tour we went on, well worth booking! xxx

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    2. I defintely will. We will have our wedding anniversary, valentines day and my birthday while we are there. x

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    3. What a fabulous place to celebrate three occasions! Happy Birthday & anniversary! xxx

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  2. As ever thank, you for transporting one to a really insightful visit to somewhere never visited.

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    1. I'm glad you enjoyed it, Louise! There's some bargain flights on the Ryanair website if you're tempted! xxx

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  3. Oh, what an amazing place and those wooden balconies are quite drool-worthy!

    I understand Jon's interest in that T3 - looked in lovely condition.

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    1. It was so pretty, I've never seen balconies so intricately carved.
      Jon could hardly tear himself away from that T3, it was in great condition considering it was a workaday council vehicle. xxx

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  4. Great pictures. I love the statuary and you commentary!

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  5. Wow!! What an attractive place to visit. You are sharing a lovely side of the island. My Mum used to go to gorgeous places in Lanzarote too- you just have to do what you do and explore! Kxx

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    1. Thanks, K! Your Mum had the right idea, you just need to escape the tourist traps and go and explore. xxx

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  6. What a fascinating part of the world that is! Thank you for taking us along on your trip, Vix! Aw, and aren't you kind - thank you for the shout-out (those jackets are far better than my sad efforts!).

    I am glad we're not the only ones who get the giggles and snorts when faced with the pious faces of religious antiques. L saw so many "Jesus pointing" hands in paintings in Italy, that he copied it in every picture I took of him! I would also wear that red velvet dress!

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    1. Sad efforts? Your leather designs are incredible, Sheila!
      There is something about those rapt expressions that you can't possibly take seriously. I love the idea of a whole album of Jesus pointing hands, sounds like a great idea for an art project! xxx

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  7. Did you add anything to your wardrobe from the boutique? Some of the dresses on the rack look lovely.

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    1. I didn't dare go in, I travelled with hand luggage only and couldn't have squeezed another thing in! xxx

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  8. I see what you mean about the Jesus tea-towels, would sell well I should think! Jon is a very good photographer, I love the pic of you against the pink wall. After our forthcoming epic trip I think we will follow you and explore Europe - there's so much to see closer to home and our money will go a lot further!

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    1. Thanks, Betty! When I saw how much the flights to India has increased by in the three years we'd not been there we decided that the money would pay for a year's worth of travel if not more. I do miss India but there are some equally lovely and interesting places a lot closer to our island! xxx

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  9. The man cherub was indeed incredibly creepy and disturbing! Another beautiful place you've visited; the church was magnificent and I loved the embroidered cloaks especially. I also loved the buildings - oh to have a beautiful long wooden balcony...

    Fabulous photos, thank you.
    xxx

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    1. Hello Vronni, glad you enjoyed tagging along with us. I thought that man child cherub had a look of Donald Trump, don't tell him! Xx

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  10. That looks amazing ... well all except that weird little old man/cherub, now that's just the stuff of nightmares. He looks like a little naked chubby politician!!

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    1. The baby Jesuses are equally freaky, they all look like old men! Xxx

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  11. What a picturesque town, I'm not surprised at all that it received World Heritage status! I'm loving the architecture and those amazing carved wooden balconies. And oh those Aeoniums!
    The bored looking tea towel flogging lady would have had me in stitches as well, and the cherub definitely looks quite creepy. do love those kitschy statues, though.
    I can totally see you wearing that gorgeous red velvet dress! xxx

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    1. That red dress is wasted on the Virgin Mary, she never goes further than the altar, at least I'd treat it to an outing or two! Xxx

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  12. What a delightful little town. I loved your comments on the statues, and yes, you would look amazing in that red velvet dress! Xx

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  13. As a protestant child intrigued by the Holy Cards awarded Catholic kids next door for good behavior (especially prized was bloody Saint Stephen, who we speculated had run afoul of Native Americans), I can identify the lady with the tea towel as Saint Veronica displaying the face of Christ imprinted on her veil. She's the patron saint of linen weavers and a pet of those elderly nuns who do the needlework you admired on those spectacular robes. * Meanwhile on the roofs -- those house leeks are alarmingly healthy. Would any of them answer to "Audrey", one wonders...

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    1. Hi Beth, that's fascinating about St Veronica, I disappeared down a rabbit hole of Google images once I learnt her name. I shall investigate Stephen next, he sounds horrific. Apparently the convent at Teror is famed for its baking nuns,they have cake making business and people travel from far and wide to buy them. Typically it was shut the day we visited. Xx

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  14. What a beautiful town! Just breath taking. I love places like that where you can glimpse the hills or mountains at the end of quaint little side streets. Best of both worlds!
    I was chuckling away with you at the tea towel seller and that metal band reject. ;-D
    Imagine having an Aeonium roof top garden too. Lovely!
    I haven't heard the Madonna rumour, but I wouldn't be surprised. She's going to be touring isn't she? I enjoyed seeing her on her Blonde Ambition tour, but she's lost the plot a bit these days, not to mention being almost unrecognisable. It would be a spectacle though I'm sure...highly polished and choreographed. xxx

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    1. I love it when you see hills and mountains at the end of streets, too!
      That tea towel seller had us in stitches and now Beth's told me who she is (St Veronica) I've had hours of fun Googling similarly strange statues of her!
      I do hope Madonna does Glasto, when I saw the announcement that she was touring I've been convinced that she would. I've never seen her and have no idea what she looks or sounds like these days but absolutely loved her in the 1980s and Desperately Seeking Susan remains one of my favourite films , she was my style icon for years! xxx

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  15. I can't unsee the teatowels now....a visual equivalent of an earworm perhaps!! Arilx

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    1. Isn't she frightful? After learning from Beth that she's St Veronica I've been giggling at the many images of her online . I'll never get to heaven.x

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  16. Those Jacket sure look fun.
    Coffee is on and stay safe

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    1. Such talent especially Madonna. X

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  17. So lovely architecture, so similar to the typical buildings and balconies in the south of Spain and Portugal (I miss my fav Algarve villages!). But I've been said that they are also similar to Venezuela or Colombia!, Canary Islands feel like a perfect mix of both sides of the Atlantic.
    The imaginery!, you made me laugh loud!. As a spanish myself I barely noticed anything remarkable until you mentioned! (actually, it's usual to find many 'not masterpieces', some of them can be disturbingly ugly! ;DD) . And I recognized immediately the sculpture of that saint our friend Veronica was named after!.
    Looking forward to visiting Canary Islands again myself!
    besos​

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    1. I loved the quirky architecture. I think I need to revisit the Algarve, I've not been since 1988!
      Those Catholic statues are such a novelty to us, I can't resist them. It's probably lucky we only travelled with hand luggage or I'd come back with a heap of them! xxxx

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  18. Your posts from this trip make me want to go to Spain, a country I have never visited but many of my friends have. The architecture is very cool. I would find the religious Icons a bit too much - I do like the woman with the "Jesus face" dish towel though. The "man-cherub" is just creepy.

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    1. Spain is fascinating, there's a sophistication and stylishness that I've not seen in other countries. I love that everyone dresses up at night, even couples in their seventies and eighties. The religious iconography is a bit creepy, those overly pious expressions and the Trump cherubs! xxx

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Lots of love, Vix