I knew Paleokastritsa would be the place for us when I read the complaints posted by Brits on the Corfu travel forum claiming that although Paleo was the most beautiful spot on the island by day, by night it was "boring" - no clubs, no karaoke, no televised sport or tribute acts, no British bars or all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets. Their boring is what we'd call perfection! Our nights in Paleo were spent in traditional tavernas, eating late and chatting over a jug of the local chilled red wine. One of the taverna owners remarked that she loved us because we were so unusual, saying that most couples who visit ignore each other and play on their phones all night rather than enjoying one another's company, like we obviously did.
Paleo Disco shut down almost twenty years ago.
In Paleo, like most seaside resorts in Greece, people don't tend to dress up at night and, with the night time temperature rarely dropping below 30°C, it's all about keeping cool and, with such a rocky terrain, comfy footwear is a must. We packed light and wore everything we took at least twice. For the beach I alternated between two pairs of shorts and a couple of white broderie anglaise tops (all charity shopped) whilst Jon stuck to the same shorts and shirt combo. We'd wash our daytime clothing in the shower every evening, hang it on the rack on the balcony and it'd be dry by bedtime.
Jon packed three pairs of shorts and five shirts, these pink linen shorts and printed cotton shirt were both chazza shop buys.
As well for nights out, I also wore this embroidered Indian cotton maxi dress to travel in. I'd been eyeing it up for weeks but the day before we left for Cornbury it was reduced to half price so I clicked "Buy" and it was waiting for me when we got back. The Moroccan woolwork & leather clutch - labelled sample was a charity shop find five years ago and the unworn Ancient Greek "Chrysso" leather sandals, supplied in their box with the dustbags, were an eBay buy - they retail at £190, I paid £18!
Talking of footwear, I'd packed my trusty leather Indian chappals I'd bought in Mumbai but after walking an average of 8 km a day they were falling apart so I treated myself to a spanking new pair of handmade Greek leather sandals in Corfu Town.
The Jaeger cotton shirt was another charity shop find. It was rather snug until Jon started swimming a mile a week!
This vintage 1970s Lizzie of Australia halterneck cotton maxi was a gift from Sarah, an Aussie blogger pal, back in 2010.
Another charity shop shirt with some navy linen shorts - a recent sale purchase.
Believe it or not, this truck (belonging to Spiro & Maria's neighbour) is still in daily use!
Jon spotted this tiger shirt in a charity shop a couple of days before we went to Rhodes last year, its now been to three Greek islands! Here it is with his pink shorts and with some linen shorts printed with monstera leaves.
My crochet maxi dress was another retail sale buy. Naughty me!
And here's the shirred cotton sundress I wore to Corfu Town. It was £4 from a charity shop back in May and still had the original store tags attached.
River Studios was behind the village campsite, which looks absolutely lovely and is reasonably priced, too (see HERE).
The Naked Generation maxi dress I bought from eBay and wore in Crete a couple of months ago.
Paleokastritsa consists of a single road, 4 km in length, dotted with tavernas, studio apartments, a couple of posh hotels, mini markets, a couple of boutiques, two car hire places and a handful of boat hire joints. As we'd walked a lot during the day, at night we were lazy, opting for the tavernas and bars within a 15 minute walk from River Studios.
Elia was a favourite, owned by the same Greek family as Acapulco. In the background you can see the apartment where we stayed in 2017.
For a posh night out, you can't get better than Nereids, set in lush gardens in the centre of the village. Booking is usually required but we timed it just right, turned up on spec and managed to get a table.
Jon couldn't resist some lamb in Nausika, the taverna's resident cats waited for scraps.
We hung out in Petrino most nights back when we visited in 2019 when we stayed at the Paleo Inn next door.
Flavor consistently wins Trip Advisor's Best Restaurant award, which is well deserved, the food is incredible.
Although we'd walked past Cactus many times in the past, this year was the first time we'd visited.
Not only was it a spectacular sunset spot but the beer was good and vegetarian gyros (€4) were sensational.
The loos were gorgeous and Jon was in heaven - George, the owner, had the most stupendous collection of Northern Soul, Rare Groove and 1960s Motown on vinyl.
La Grotta is the coolest hang-out on the planet. Carved from the rocks, its been captivating visitors and Corfiots alike since the 1960s. The music is ambient, the view sublime and its probably the only bar I've ever visited with a diving board....maybe next year I'll be brave enough to use it. Several of the clientele leapt off the rock with the tree on top - talk about extreme sports!
It's just as stunning after dark.
Our flight home wasn't until 1am on Saturday so, after checking out of our room we spent Friday basking in the sunshine and swimming in the sea before a final beer in Acapulco...
We collected our bags from River Studios and hopped on the bus to Corfu Town where, after depositing our belongings in the left luggage lockers at the bus station, headed off to the Liston for drinks and dinner at Aegli.
I had a roast beetroot with pomegranate seed salad with a blue cheese dressing.
Jon had a baked chicken breast in a lemon and herb sauce.
Then we wandered the streets for a final time.
I've no idea if this traditional Greek folk dance happens every Friday night or whether we were lucky to catch a performance but it was wonderful...aren't the costumes gorgeous?
After collecting our luggage we hopped on the bus to the airport and had a couple of beers in a bustling open air bar outside departures. We arrived in Birmingham at 3.30am and, despite three other flights arriving at the same time, the queue for immigration moved quickly and our bag was the first off the carousel. Tony pulled up the minute we exited arrivals and we were back at home by 4.30am, crashing into bed to the sound of the dawn chorus.
It's goodbye to Corfu but not the end of this year's travels, we're trading at two more festivals and then more adventures await. Watch this space.
This weekend it's all about our Lionesses...C'mon, England....Football's Coming Home!
the "boring" nights there sound exactly our cup of tea too....... :-D
ReplyDeleteand yes - you both are unusual: no phone addict, smart casual with hippie glam instead of plastic sportswear, interested in each other and your sourroundings.
xxxx
Who needs "entertainment" when you have beautiful views and each other?
DeleteI have to smile about people complaining of the heat when they're dressed in skin-tight synthetic clothing! xxx
Jon's face says it all. It was fun coming along. The blue waters are so beautiful.
ReplyDeleteHe smiled so much his face was hurting after ten days on Corfu! xxx
DeleteI love the fashion round-up in this post - surely, you and Jon were the best-dressed folks around, Vix! Aside from the Greek dancers, that is! Thank you so much for the amazing photos from your trip. I wouldn't be jumping off that diving board! Yikes!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Sheila! I did find a shop selling antique costumes in Corfu Town but didn't ask the price, maybe next time!
DeleteJust looking at that diving board made my knees wobble - I might have to see if the swimming baths offer diving lessons so i get get over that fear! xxx
2 1/2 hours to fly from Greece? Damn, that's not fair. It was over night for us, Atlanta to Athens.
ReplyDeleteWe're so lucky! xxx
DeleteYour new sandals are beautiful and look very well made.
ReplyDeleteThank you! I was spoilt for choice, I might have to go back and buy another pair. xxx
DeleteI love the way you share your travels - and the wardrobes!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Ruth! xxx
DeleteHave loved looking at all your holiday photos and those new sandals are gorgeous.
ReplyDeleteThanks so much, Emma! x
DeleteOoh this has been the best part of the holiday for me, we would love the peace of no English bars etc. I think Jon has to have the best range of shirts around. Saying that Philip could be in close contest haha. I love the green halter neck dress off your Australian friend. xxx
ReplyDeleteI know - who wants to go abroad and sit in an English pub?!
DeleteJon always says that my green and white maxi reminds of Pacers, remember them?
Yes, Philip would give Lord Jon a run for his money with his fine assortment of snazzy shirts! xxx
Glorious! As you say, who needs entertainment when you are in such a beautiful place! When I visited my friend and I went to a lovely taverna several times. The very young waitress asked me to write to her when I got home, I did and we exchanged letters for a bit. Such lovely people in Paleo. Mine you, the arrival of the daily coach parties increased the pollution for a while, I had a full blown asthma attack whilst sitting having breakfast! A small blip! I love all your dresses and new sandals.
ReplyDeleteHello Carole! I wonder if that waitress is still there? You'll have to go back and find out.
DeleteGah! I know what you mean about all those coaches - we'd watch them filing past when we had breakfast every morning. We never went further than the harbour beach, I think most park up by the main beach so we managed to escape the daytripper madness! xxx
I will never understand why Brits want English pubs abroad. What an unadventurous lot! La Grotta looks like the most wonderful place. I'm looking for birthday celebration inspiration and that place has just made it onto my list! Lovely photos and stylish as always. xxx
ReplyDeleteWe're a weird race, we love to travel but want everything to be the same as it is at home! I know a lady who spent her 70th birthday at La Grotta! xxx
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ReplyDeleteEverything you listed that 'the average Brit' desired would be the furthest thing from my 'to-do' list! If all they want is to be entertained like that - why go to such a lovely place and miss out on everything?? Lovely round up and photos xx
ReplyDeleteI know, I don't understand this constant need for entertainment! xxx
Delete"boring" - no clubs, no karaoke, no televised sport or tribute acts, no British bars or all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets ... that sounds like my idea of heaven too.
ReplyDeleteThis was a lovely fashion show, you both looked very stylish and have obviously perfected the art of packing and travelling light and yet looking as though you have brought half your wardrobe with you. Love the new sandals, isn't it nice to have a useful souvenir such as these to remember a holiday by.
Thanks so much, Sue! xxx
DeleteThose "boring" nights sound perfect to me! In fact, clubs, karaoke, and their ilk would be my ultimate nightmare! Don't really get why your fellow Brits need British bars on a foreign holiday. What's the point, I wonder. My fellow Belgians are the same, unfortunately, they just want to eat and drink the same things they've got here ..
ReplyDeleteLove the round-up of outfits, both you and Jon look fabulous! I'm particularly swooning over that green halterneck maxi and your naughty retail buy, the crochet dress. The white shirred sundress is gorgeous too!
Can you believe those couples ignoring each other and playing on their phones? Like you and Jon, Jos and I always have something to talk about! xxx
I know - the joy of travel is to try new things not to try and recreate what you've got at home. Weird people! xxx
DeleteThat sounds like my idea of the perfect holiday Vix..
ReplyDeleteIt's wonderful, Cherie! xxx
DeleteHi Vix, a couple after our own hearts, we always smile at couples who are more engrossed in their phones than each other. Views, each other, glorious food and fashion your travel posts are always a feast for the eyes. Just getting over the dreaded lurgy after a couple of years the dreaded Covid finally caught us. Oh well onwards and upwards. You always pack so well for your trips. Love all your outfits. hugs Shazx
ReplyDeleteHello Shaz! I'm so sorry that the dread Covid's got you, I hope your symptoms were as mild as mine and you're both on the mend! Thanks so much for your kind comments! xxx
DeleteI always enjoy seeing your holiday wardrobes. All of your outfits are stunning but I especially love the Indian cotton maxi dress. I must be boring as well, because the idea of British bars, karaoke and clubs would be my idea of hell. Xx
ReplyDeleteThanks so much, Jules! I love summer clothes ! xxx
DeleteI bet every time your out and about, you stop at charity shop.
ReplyDeleteCoffee is on and stay safe
I certainly do, Dora! xxx
DeleteCorfu looks so dreamy in your photos! so relaxing, perfect place for a vacation and recharge. You maxi dresses are goals here, I would love to rock each, especially the red one.
ReplyDeleteAwww, thanks Lyosha! xxx
DeletePaleo sounds like perfection. I love quiet evenings! In fact I think the town could hire you as their PR?Marketing person! I adored the bar with the diving board; I'd have no hesitation diving off that but not the rock with the tree - no way!
ReplyDeleteJon and you have the art of holiday dressing perfected to an art and you both looked fabulous in your many outfits. Your new sandals looks gorgeous. I'm so glad you didn't have any horrible queuing experiences going or coming.; some people have experienced nightmares trying to get away or come back....
Have a great week,
xxx
You looked like you got a good taste of the culture. I love it when we manage to find where the locals eat out....I'm a great one for wandering off the beaten track wherever I am. The best stuff is always hidden away from the main thoroughfares! Arilx
ReplyDeleteThere's so much culture in Greece, it seems like madness to sit with a load of Brits eating burgers! xxx
DeleteBoring sounds quite perfect to me.
ReplyDeleteAnd your round up of food, drink and gorgeous clothes is darn near perfect too.
Thanks so much, Jayne! xxx
DeletePaleo sounds simply perfect to me too. For the life of me I can never understand the need to have the same food and entertainment as at home, just enjoy the beauty and atmosphere of your destination.
ReplyDeleteI enjoyed a peek at your travel wardrobe , you and John must have stood out from the normal lycra clad tourists and been so much cooler and comfortable, to say nothing of looking wnderful . I smiled at your white dress . Somewhere I have a photo of me in an almost identical one at the Acropolis back in 1975. xx
Thanks, Jill! I'd love to see your Acropolis photo! xxx
DeleteYour crochet dress, along with pretty much everything else in the pics, is fabulous. My lot got back from Egypt early doors on Saturday. Those twilight flights are a pain in the proverbial, especially when you've got kids in tow and you have to vacate your room nearly 16 hours pre flight.
ReplyDeleteThanks so much! I'm glad your lot got home safe and sound. Those twilight flights are a pain in peak season - when we travel in quieter times most places offer a late check out - we probably weren't very fragrant on the plane after a day in 40°C ! xxxx
DeleteI know others have said this, (we're obviously all of the same mind here 🙂), but who wants to go abroad and sit in an 'English' pub? I mean, I love going to pubs here, but abroad I want to go where the locals go.
ReplyDeleteAnyway, I love all the fab clothes you and Lord Jon are wearing. It sounds like you checked your luggage in this time? All the more space for those gorgeous sandals! 🙂
Exactly! Much as I love a traditional British pub, sitting in one abroad is my idea of a holiday from hell!
DeleteYes, we pushed the boat out and took hold baggage - I could probably have fitted all my clothes in my hold bag but we wanted to take sun cream and the once a day stuff isn't widely available on Corfu. xxx
Love the Naked Generation dress. This is definitely a destination I would love to do, no commercialised crap, we are not mobile phone enthusiasts either (hate seeing all those 'blue faces' sitting in the dark staring at their screens!) the whole point of going to another country is to enjoy everything 'local' and you certainly embraced that! Betty
ReplyDeleteWelcome home, Betty! Argh - those blue faces, they drive me nuts! xxx
DeleteNo clubs or sports bars? Sounds like my kind of place! You both look fabulous!
ReplyDeleteGreat minds think alike! xxx
DeletePaleo sounds like Paradise with cats. Ah, the lapping of the waves on the rocks....and the "chilled local red wine." Glad the locals appreciated the efforts you and Jon made to honor the landscape with your chic ensembles and Jon's sleek shorts and shirts. (I usually note the brilliant blues; this time, it's those popping scarlets and pinks!)
ReplyDeleteIt was paradise, Beth! If it wasn't for Brexit I think we'd be living there! xxx
DeleteYou made a perfect choice for your holiday Vix and a wonderful place to stay-I feel relaxed just reading and browsing your photos -Thank you x
ReplyDeleteThanks, Flis! xxx
DeleteNo British bars or kareoke Vix?!? Next you'll be telling us there are no Irish bars or Fish & Chip shops too!!! Looks heavenly. Loving all the outfits and flowers. I especially like the way eateries use trees for shade on Greek islands. Not a tacky parasol in site xXx
ReplyDelete