Tuesday 8 March 2022

Viva Espania! Taking the Tram to Altea

 


Thursday started for Tony & me with a tortilla (omelette with pan-fried potatoes and onion), whilst Jon stuck to his favourite broken eggs and ham eaten in the cafe we'd eaten breakfast in previously, served by the same beautiful woman.


Declining a second coffee we walked up to the Mercado tram station, purchasing tickets to Altea from the machine in the main entrance hall. Altea is 30 miles away from Alicante and a return ticket costs €8.25. The tram station was immaculately clean with mask-wearing mandatory both in the station and on the tram. The 10.12am tram arrived a couple of minutes early and left on time.


We had to change at trams at Benidorm station. Although I loved the TV show and, if you remember, even saw the stage play at Birmingham's Alex Theatre on my birthday a few years ago, none of us was too bothered about spending time exploring the highrise resort popular with British pensioners so just nipped to a little bar opposite the station for a coffee in the sunshine while we awaited our connection.



All of a fluster Jon asked the waiter for cafe con Carne causing hysterical laughter on all sides.





We arrived in Altea two hours after leaving Alicante and headed straight to the beachfront for a wander. 


Often described as Spain's Santorini, Altea is a charming seaside town, popular with tourists since the 1950s for its labyrinthine streets with whitewashed housefronts and sparklingly clean beaches and, because the town is protected on the north by the bluffs of the Serre de Bernia mountain range, it has a particularly mild micro-climate. 



During the Moorish domination, the land around Altea belonged to the Taifa of Dénia until recaptured by the Christians in 1244 under James I of Aragon. The town was quickly fortified, and walls were erected to enclose what is now known as the Old Town.


 Sights include the church of La Mare de Déu del Consol ("Our Lady of Solace"), easily identifiable by its picturesque blue and white domes, tiled with glazed ceramics.


I couldn't find much out about the history but, like all the Spanish churches I've visited, I loved the over-the-top opulence, gold leaf and statues even if I am a bit scared of being hit by a lightning bolt when god realises I'm an atheist.






Did I mention the cobbled labyrinthine streets? I can see why Altea is compared to Santorini, the old town feels so Greek with its welcoming, laid back vibe and the abundance of pot plants. Tony decided there and then that he needed to retire here. 

















All that exploring had made us hungry so we found a suitable spot in the town square, ordered ourselves a beer and studied the menu, settling on Caesar salads for the boys and melted cheese, apple and honey on toast for me - which was enormous.


Chin, chin!

























After another hour of wandering Altea's pretty lanes and choosing which house we'd like to live in, we headed back to the station just as the Benidorm tram was pulling in. 


After a sprint across the city & back to the hotel, we grabbed our hats, scarves and gloves and headed up to the roof for our customary sunset beer.


What better choice for our last dinner in Alicante than a vegetable paella? It was delicious! (As were the mushroom croquettes, Padron peppers and patatas Bravas we started with.) 


Alicante only gets around twenty days of rain a year but we'd just finished eating when we felt the pitter-patter of raindrops. We paid the bill and moved on to the town hall square where we shared a bottle of Alicante red under the shelter of a big umbrella.

The last instalment is coming very soon!


40 comments:

  1. Oh my word, Altea is so beautiful (reminded me a little of Lindos) and the colour of that sea, just glorious! Do you think it is somewhere you might revisit as a main destination in its own right?

    Last Supper - I think I would have been licking the plates 😄

    What a fabulous break, hope it has fortified you all for whatever we are facing over the next few weeks/months. xx

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    1. Altea was gorgeous, it had such a relaxed vibe and felt so Greek. I'd love to go back and spend longer there getting lost in the lanes and browsing the shops for pretty trinkets.
      That paella was incredible, I could have eaten it all to myself! xxx

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  2. I love how it doesn't seem at all crowded-and I hope you don't mind me saying Vix but I thought Jon and Tony together look double trouble x

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    1. Flis, they're so naughty when they're together, it's like having a couple of children! xxx

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  3. So my Spanish is poor. Did Jon order a coffee with meat? Lol! Your trip is just lovely. Love the evening beers.

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    1. Yes! A coffee with meat! Not as bad as when we were in Brazil and he ordered a round of what he thought was the Portuguese word for beer and ended up with brandy - there were eight of us, it was a very expensive round! xxx

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  4. What wonderful photos; I almost felt I was there with you. The light looks beautiful and just by the light alone one could see you were not in the UK. The group of older people sitting at the bus stop epitomised Benidorm for me!

    Our Lady of Solace was astonishing; loved those tiled domes and what a fantastic interior. Don't worry about the lightening bolt - you won't be alone!

    It must have been very hard to leave it all behind and come back to dreary and cold England....
    xxx

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    1. I wish the bikes parked beneath the Benidorm sign had been mobility scooters, that would have been exactly how I imagine the place to be!
      The light is wonderful, such a contrast to here! xxx

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  5. Altea looks like my kind of town. Love the clean beaches, the notable lack of high rise blots on the landscape, the narrow streets and the white domes (I like a dome just as much as I like a bandstand). I appreciate the feline feature and laughed heartily at Jon's cafe con carne. xxx

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    1. I see a dome challenge coming on, Claire! WE're going to have to hunt a few down once we've exhausted bandstands!
      We were helpless with laughter over the cafe con carne, even more so after a beer! xxx

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  6. Wow, Altea is amazing! What a gorgeous place. I loved seeing all your pics, Vix! Thank you!

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  7. The church domes are beautiful. You'd need a mild climate for them to survive, I suppose.
    That was some cheese on toast!

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    1. I was mesmerised by those beautiful blue tiles.
      Who knew cheese, apple and honey could be so tasty? xxx

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  8. I feel like I'm on holiday with you Vix. You are lucky to be just hours away from these lovely destinations.

    Julie and poppyq

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    1. I'm delighted you've both joined us on our trip. Love to you both! xxx

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  9. Bloody hell, you weren't kidding when you said that apple and cheese and toast was big!
    Altea looks wonderful- so clean and bright! And yes, such a Greek vibe! Love the posing pics!

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    1. It was massive - the boys had to help me finish it!
      Altea is gorgeous, I'd love to know what it's like in peak season, I reckon it's a bit too steep and quiet for the Benidorm massive! xxx

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  10. Altea looks amazing, I bet it gets packed in the summer. Those people at the bus stop made me giggle, you guys are dressed like locals and well god bless them. They must have retired out there. I didn’t realise they had a tram system out there. Paul said it reminds him of palma and Inca we were planning to go after the baby was born in the summer.
    But the world is upside down. As we watch in horror here. My mum has been putting donations in trollies as she finds them god bless her. That Apple pizza looked lush. As did the paella.
    Those two look like brothers. Take care and look after each other love and hugs

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    1. Altea was absolutely gorgeous! We loved it there. I had to giggle at the people at the bus stop, they'd obviously been out there for months and they hadn't got a clue about the tram, typical Brits they had to ask absolutely everyone if it was going to Altea even though it said it was on the front!
      The cheese and apple thing was amazingly good and I loved the paella.
      Your Mum's doing a wonderful thing with the donations. xxx

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  11. Hi Vix and Jon,
    well done to explore the surroundings from Alicante and I have to notice, you are sniffed out the jewels with Altea. Never been in this region myself because of my prejudice against Benidorm, maybe Alicante too. But, the older you get, the wiser?? Hope it. Your daily planning is just the way we love to spend the days in our holidays too. One question... did you ever visit Portugal? We love it so much. The north, the middle, even the south with the hotspots at the Algarve, where you clever travellers would also find a jewel or two. But at the Algarve also live a high British pensioner community... But less in the north, and for our conditions, the north has a mild clima even in autumn and springtime and fantastic landscapes, cities and beaches. I just wanted to say... ;-)
    Hugs, Love and Peace from Cologne
    Susa

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    1. Hello Susa! Funnily enough I nearly booked Porto instead of Alicante but Jon checked the weather forecast and was put off. We love the Portuguese quarter of Goa's state capital Panjim and often say we'd love to visit Portugal. I went there in 1988 and stayed near Portimao but Jon's never been. Thsnk you so much for your tips, we shall seriously consider it. xxx

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  12. It looks fabulous.
    I can't get over the size of that cheese on toast 😀
    I haven't been to Benidorm for years, but I remember the old part being nice. I wonder whether it's changed much? Will have to do some research. Altea is gorgeous though. Xxx

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    1. If we'd been in Alicante for longer we'd have probably squeezed in a trip to Benidorm but with our limited time we thought Altea was the better option. I quite fancy hunting down the Solana and getting a trim in Kenneth's hair salon! xxx

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  13. Isn't Altea beautiful, I bet the train ride was fun, I love train rides! I love the buildings you found, little cobbled streets and balconies (Benidorm isn't as picturesque but the Old Town has some cobbled streets and pretty balconies, totally different to the sky scraper see front which isn't my cup of tea either) I notice you have some comfy trainers - very trendy at the moment too, they look good with everything I think.

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    1. I wondered if you'd visited Altea! It's gorgeous, we loved it. THe tram ride was fab, there was even a team of cleaners that got on halfway through the journey and cleaned all the surfaces - clean, efficient and brilliant value for money and the scenery was spectacular, too!
      I've heard about how pretty Benidorm's old town is. My mum had a very posh friend who traveled the world, staying in really swanky hotels but went back to Benidorm every year as she said it was better than anywhere else.
      I'm definitely a convert to plimsolls, I didn't get a single blister or a hip twinghe despite all the walking. xxx

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  14. its gorgeous!
    altea is a picturesque town indeed. it looks like the perfect mediterranean hideaway.....
    now i´m craving paella - its ages that i had some.
    xxxxx

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    1. Can you believe that I've never eaten paella before and I've been to Spain six times? Shocking! I shall have to get my pinny on! xxx

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  15. Altea looks absolutely enchanting, I wish I could have wandered its labyrinthine streets with you. Just looking at those photos was balm for the soul.
    I had to laugh at the four people in the bus shelter in Benidorm, which reminded me of Belgian comedy series Benidorm B*****S. I can't get over the size of that cheese, apple and honey toast. Don't tell me you ate it all! xxx

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    1. You'd have loved Altea, so pretty and quaint ....and no crowds to photobomb your photos! I'll have to track down that Belgian TV show. Have seen Benidorm? As an honorary Brit I think you'd get its wry observational humour!
      I allowed the boys a few slices of my toast! xxx

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  16. You took gorgeous photos. Altea is fabulous. I love your purple dress.

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  17. Altea looks so pretty and the church is stunning. I love the contrast of the blue of the roof against the white walls. Philip once said to me he couldn’t understand why churches were so opulent when all around them would be people living in poverty. He’s right and since he said it years ago I’ve not been able to forget it.
    The weather looked so much warmer in Altea. I bet it felt good to feel the sun on your back

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    1. Philip's right, all that gold leaf and opulance when their parisoners were often starving. xxx

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  18. Hello Vix, I am just casually sat here drinking my cafe con carne and it feels like I am there. Look at those moorish roofs and beautiful pot plants! Melted cheese, apple and honey on toast!? ...yes please :) :) :) xXx

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    1. I hope you enjoyed every mouthful of that cafe con carne! xxx

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  19. Altea is very pretty and does remind one of Greece with all the white buildings and blue sky and sea. The church is gorgeous - reminds me of the ones I saw in Mexico City, which were extravagantly gilded on the inside. Even though I too am an atheist I was still able to appreciate the splendor of the building.
    Jon would have been very surprised if he they would have given him meet with his coffee!

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    1. We couldn't stop laughing about the meat! xxx

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  20. Wow, I've never been in Altea and it looks beautiful and quiet (this time of the year), so totally understand Tony!.
    Great to see you had some tortilla de patatas as it's one of the few vegetarian traditional plates!, lovely to see there are many veggie friendly plates on the menu!. Have to comment on this to local bars, so they could actualize their offer!
    So fab posts!
    Besos

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    1. Altea is wonderful, I loved the laid back vibe! xxxx

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Lots of love, Vix