Saturday, 5 March 2022

Viva Espania! Alicante Part I


Hola! We're back from a cheeky few days spent in sunny Spain! 

Like most good ideas, our trip started after a random conversation over a few beers in 'Spoons with Jon desperate for some Winter warmth, Tony keen to escape the UK after two years of going nowhere and me always up for an adventure. The following day, after some serious internet trawling, we settled on Alicante, the historic Mediterranean port city on the Costa Blanca, a region none of us had previously visited and, with average daytime temperatures of 18°C and return flights costing £66, it didn't take much persuasion to click the "book now" button on the Ryanair website.



On Monday morning we picked Tony up at 3.30am and headed to Birmingham airport, boarding our flight just after 6am and landing at Alicante's Elche Miguel Hernández Airport some two hours later. As soon as the Spanish authorities had checked our vaccination status and waved us through, we boarded the C6 bus into the city where we disembarked and wandered along the palm-tree-lined, ceramic tiled boulevards in the glorious Mediterranean sunshine.


Our accommodation for the next four nights was to be the gorgeous boutique hotel, the Hotel Les Monges Palace, a former nunnery built in 1911 & situated in El Barrio, the atmospheric old quarter of Alicante, which we'd booked independently through Booking.com. Although check-in wasn't until 2pm we popped in to see if there was anywhere we could leave our belongings and discovered that Tony's room was already available so we offloaded our bags, discarded a couple of layers of clothing and headed off back into the city to explore.



Our first port of call was a stroll down to the Platja del Postiguet to admire the city's immaculately clean beach. We gazed at the imposing walls of the Santa Barbara castle, perched on the rocks high above  Alicante and looked out across the Mediterranean at the infamous resort of Benidorm with its monstrously tall buildings piercing the skyline.


The February sunshine was warm and, although it wasn't what I'd call bikini weather, there were a handful of tourists prostrating themselves on the pristine white sands.




We found a bustling cafe on the esplanade and ordered ice-cold Estrellas, wishing every Monday morning could be just like this.










After a wander up and down the seafront, we'd worked up an appetite and found a traditional-looking restaurant on the esplanade for lunch, packed with Spanish families.


The service was painfully slow, it took the waiter 20 minutes to bring a menu and another forty to take our orders, but it was worth the wait.


My friend Helen, a Spanish teacher, had furnished me with a list of Spanish vegetarian dishes to look out for. When I'd last visited mainland Spain, back in 1995, it was nigh-on impossible to find food that wasn't laced with fish or meat, despite me always telling the waiting staff soy vegetariano (I'm vegetarian). 


The boys went for tuna salads whilst I plumped for gazpacho soup - a dish I know well but have never tried - along with large glasses of Spanish beer. Considering the restaurant was in a prime spot on the seafront, the prices were pretty reasonable.


The Hotel les Monges Palace was just behind the Alicante Town Hall, a magnificent 18th Century baroque building with doors so gorgeous they made my knees go slightly weak (or that could have been the daytime drinking).


Normally only open to the public by appointment, the receptionist was kind enough to let us have a little peek inside.


This Civil War-era poster is heartbreakingly apt, isn't it?



Back at the hotel we checked into our room and took a siesta before meeting up with Tony on the rooftop bar. At around 12°C, Alicante's Winter nights are milder than we're used to at home although I was glad I'd packed my thermals.


We drank San Miguel and watched with wonder as the sun sank behind the buildings followed by the almost magical electrical illumination of both the castle above us & the city below.






At night, the pretty square below our hotel was transformed with the glow of candles, flames from the gas patio heaters and twinkling fairy lights, brought out by the surrounding restaurants however, after an hour on the roof, we opted to eat indoors.




Tapas time!! I devoured the oven-baked Provolone cheese in a tangy tomato sauce, the boys demolished a platter of Iberian ham with Manchego cheese and the pork tenderloin and we shared Padron peppers and Patatas Bravas washed down with pints of the very potent Cruzcampo Reserve beer (which I discovered to my cost the following morning).


I'll be back with part 2 very soon.

Adios! 


Image above especially for Elizabeth!

50 comments:

  1. Haven't been to Alicante it looks worth exploring - got some lovely archictecture. My inlaws used to own property over a 60 year span in Benidorm so it's familiar; I honeymooned there and Guadalest ... a few years back we took our sons to Benidorm 'old town' and found the same family still running the favourite bar, the Spanish tend to hang on to things, that's for sure - I am certain you will have found Spanish food now embraces us vegetarians and can't wait to see part 2 of your getaway :)

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    1. I remember your Benidorm post! Alicante is fabulous, so many museums and gorgeous buildings, quirky bars and restaurants. We could easily have spent a fortnight there!
      Eating out used to be such a nightmare back in the last century, I'm so glad Spain now understands vegetarianism doesn't mean hidden slices of ham! xxx

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  2. I'm glad to read about your trip. I love the idea of beers early, rooftop patios, and tranquil seas. Your meals sound delicious.

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    1. I can highly recommend a trip to Spain, Sam! I hope you had a good trip, too. xxx

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  3. Although we've been enjoying a handful of sunny days, we're nowhere near 18°C which sounds positively balmy. That, and a break for routine, must have done wonders for the soul. I love traipsing around Alicante with and watching the sun go down. Oh, and I'm salivating at all that delicious looking food! Can't wait for the next installment! xxx

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    1. It was such a treat! We've got sunshine here but it's definaitley not warm enough to shed any layers yet! xxx

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  4. Oh my, your refreshing light blog post has come just at the right time for us all. Just what’s needed. Thanks Vix. Looking forward to the next episode xxx

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    1. Thanks, Lynn! I shall be bombarding Blogland with trip photos over the next few days, reliving the sunshine and escapiong the news. xxx

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  5. Welcome back Vix, you bring some much needed Mediterranean sun with you :) Oh to be sat eating delicious tapas and drinking cold beer! What an incredible hotel entrance, I can see how your were weak at the knees. Beautiful palms and tiles too. I remember a piece on the radio about the extraordinarily high number of Hull pensioners that spent their winters in Benidorm - as their caravan site conditions prohibited year round living, plus they saved a shed load of money on winter fuel, and the food was cheaper too! I look forward to Part 2...... xXx

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    1. Thanks, Lulu! I can understand why the Hull pensioners winter in Benidorm - we dodged a few of them causing mayhem on their mobility scooters on a day trip to the city (a la Madge)! xxx

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  6. Oh, how delightful! We've had a few days where that big shiny thing in the sky has appeared and it was warm enough to shed a jumper and don lighter socks LMAO. I dragged my bag of summer frocks out from under the bed and had a giddy time getting reaquainted... needless to say it has been BALTIC today.

    20 minutes to bring a menu and another 40 to take orders - I would have eaten the menu lol - I'm just not that chilled-out - the retaurant looks gorgeous, mind.

    Lovely to have you back xx

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    1. I can't tell you how welcome it was to shed a layer and walk around in a cotton dress, bare legs and sunglasses. There's nothing nicer than rediscovering the summery frocks although I've heard a vicious rumour we've got snow on the way! xxx

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    2. La la la, I can't hear yooou lol
      We've only got variations on cold and colder rain in the long range forecast here - so wellies back on then.

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    3. Let's hope they've got in wrong, it's hard to go back to a big coat after five days without one! xxx

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  7. I almost feel that I've had a little holiday now. Glad you had a good time.

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    1. Thanks, Cherie! It was just what the doctor ordered! xxx

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  8. Wonderful! Your trip has brought back so many memories for me and I can't wait for the next instalment. X

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    1. Thanks, Jules! It's been far too mnay years since we last visited Spain, I'm already itching to go back! xxx

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  9. Welcome home! Glad you had a lovely break. Very impressive doorways and your gorgeous hotel wouldn't look out of place in a Wes Anderson film. So glad I've eaten, because the food photos are mouth watering. I love how a place can be transformed at night. Well done on remembering the thermals! xxx

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    1. Thanks, Claire! It was a feast for the eyes and the belly! xxx

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  10. I thought you'd enjoy Spain. We just find it laid back, enjoy the slow meals and unhurried drinks watching the waves.

    We usually leave -30C and find even the coldest night warm.

    The people are friendly, the architecture wonderful, the parks usually are well maintained but we see what the lockdowns have caused.

    Looking forward to hearing about the rest of your travels.

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    1. It was lovely, I'd forgotten how much I enjoyed Spain and the laid back (and beautifully dressed) Spanish people.
      I chatted to a lady who'd emigrated from Vancouver to Alicante four years ago and didn't miss the weather one little bit! xxx

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  11. Always delightful to hear about your adventures. Glad you are home.

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  12. Welcome home, that looks like an absolute tonic at this time of yer, and perhaps even more so given the mayhem which Putin has unleased.

    The baroque doors to the Town Hall? No it was not (totally) the beer talking, they really are drop dead, weak knee'd, wonderful! Do you have photos of each of the three big green doors shown in the picture you took across the Plaza?

    Your food looks gorgeous, but Tony has definitely led Jon astray in the meat department 🥴

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    1. It was fabulous to escape for some warmth and a very welcome relief from the relentless news of evil Putin.
      I took a photo of every door on the town hall, both front and back, at least once a day, I can't help myself - I am obsessed with old doors!
      You're right, Jon goes into full-on carivore mode whenever he's with Tony. xxx

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  13. Ola! Never could work out why cold tomato soup would be appetising, though of course on a very hot day will be typically refreshing. Your trip looks wonderful, especially to someone nursing the most stinking-est cold this side of a Vick's nasal inhaler. Tony's face looks really familiar. Really looking forward to part II. xxx

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    1. Gazpacho never appealed to me either but I'm a convert now, light and tangy and perfect for a warm day! Everyone says Tony looks like Steve Davis (the snooker player) or the love child of Noddy Holder from Slade (Walsall's finest!)
      I hope you're feeling better soon. xxx

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  14. ps forgot to mention that the new series of Peaky Blinders started last week and it's blinding! They tributed Polly (Helen McCrory) so beautifully.

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    1. I can't wait! I wondered how they'd explain Polly's absence. We'll catch-up tonight! xxx

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  15. Fabulous! I'm bookmarking these posts for when Mark gets the all-clear to fly.

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    1. I hope it won't be too long before he's got the all-clear! xxx

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  16. now i´m very hungry after all the fabulous food!!
    wonderful photos - the town and your hotel look gorgeous......
    did you check the bags so the boys could´t pack their twin wardrobe? ;-)
    waiting for more spanish impressions!
    xxxxx

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    1. That made me laugh - the boys did check what they'd packed so they didn't have a repeat of Tony's birthday day out!
      The food was wonderful, simple, local, great quality and cooked to perfection! xxx

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  17. OOh, I am salivating over your dishes! They look wonderful!
    Alicante looks brilliant! I love the towering hills and fortresses and how lovely to have milder nights!
    The beaches look really nice too and not covered in lobster-coloured Brits!

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    1. The food was so good! I'm so grateful to Helen for sending me a list of dishes, too - I was surprised by how few restaurants had menus in English so it was really reassuring to know what to look for.
      Alicante was fantastic, so easy to get to and absolutely loads to see and do. xxx

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  18. What a great experience!
    Will be travelling to Alicante in a months time to meet my boyfriend, I can't wait to have such experiences too..

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    1. Alicante will be fabulous in a month's time - the night's will be so much warmer! Have a wonderful time with your boyfriend and have a Cruzcampo for me! xxx

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  19. Wow ... what wonderful photos, it looks amazing. Now you have got me in the mood for our holiday in Alcudia which is booked for May.

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    1. You're going to have such a good time! xxx

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  20. wowww, so delightful to see you enjoying some sunshine, shortsleeved and having some beers!, totally my kind of fun!
    I've never been in Alicante but it looks lovely, and so quiet this time of the year.
    I'm just going to read part II!, so lovely!
    besos

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    1. I wish we could have visited you whilst we were in Spian, Monica! We all loved Alicante, such a classy and interesting place and fabulous weather, too! xxx

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  21. Oh, how marvelous to get away somewhere sunny and warm, Vix! I'm so happy you were all able to take this break. I'm envious just for the change of scene! Spain seems so exotic - it's so far away. I'd be happy just to get off this island.

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    1. It felt so good to feel the heat of the sun again, the only trouble is that it's hard to go back to Winter clothes and -2°C having been spoilt for a bit!
      Spain's so close to us and the first country I ever visited when I left these shores for the first time - it's such a joy to struggle with the language, sleep in a different bed and be in a different time zone! xxx

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  22. I am very behind with blogland but happy to see you are back and clearly had a good time! It's hard for me to think of Spain and thermals in the same sentence; it's a place I always associate with ferocious heat. It was far too hot for me when I went a few years ago.

    I always find castle like the one in Alicante sitting atop huge rocks fascinating. How on earth did they build them?

    I'm loving the sound of the foods you're all eating; not sure about the beers!

    I also loved your outfit - very stylish.
    xxxx

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    1. Hello Vronni! I've been to the Spanish mainland four times and never in the Summer so I don't think of it as a hot place even though I know it is! xxx

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  23. Splendid! You always provide a feast for the eyes, thank you : ). Is it possible to see a full shot of the scale tiles used as background for your snapshots? They are a wonderful collection of soft colors I'd like to use to mix colors to. Unrelated, was the silly and surreal micro controversy over actor Alec Baldwin's ersatz Spanish wife "news" over there?

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    1. Hello Elizabeth! I've added the tile photo (spotted in the Moroccan restaurant we visited), aren't the colours pretty? I'm off to Google Alex Baldwin. xxx

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  24. Alicante looks like a lovely place to spend a few days, even if it wasn't "bikini weather". I would take a daytime temperature of 18 degrees right now. The food looks good, and I'm glad you were able to find some vegetarian dishes that you could enjoy.

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Thanks for reading and for leaving a message. Please don't be anonymous, I'd love it if you left a name (or a nom de plume).

Lots of love, Vix