Wednesday 15 December 2021

Can You Erddig It? A Road Trip to Wales

What an adventure, we left the country today and didn't need a passport, a vaccination certificate or a PLF! We travelled over the border to Wales, a 69-mile drive from Walsall. Our destination? The utterly glorious Erddig Hall in Wrexham, a 17th Century country house, set amidst a 1,900-acre estate and known to many as The Welsh Downton Abbey although I can't comment, having never seen it.


In 1682 Joshua Edisbury was appointed High Sherrif of Denbighshire and a year later, in November 1683, selected the dramatic site on an escarpment above the River Clywedog to build a home grand enough to reflect his position.


Edisbury commissioned Thomas Webb ‘to undertake and perform the care and oversight of contriving, building and finishing of a case or body of a new house’.Work began in 1684 on a house, nine bays wide. But he overstretched himself and by 1709 he was bankrupt.

A successful London-based lawyer, John Meller, bought up Joshua Edisbury's debts and set about furnishing the house with the finest furniture and fabrics, extending Erddig Hall to both the north and the south. With no wife or children, Meller looked to his sister's son, Simon Yorke, to supervise the completion and delivery of his valuable new furnishings for Erddig. He left the house to his nephew Simon on his death in 1733. The house remained in the Yorke Family until the reclusive Phillip Yorke III, the last Squire of Erddig, bequeathed the estate to The National Trust on his death in 1977.

The eccentric Yorke family had an unusual relationship with their staff. For nearly 200 years, Erddig’s servants were recorded in portraits, photographs and verse. Nothing of such breadth survives anywhere else in the world. If you're a regular visitor to British stately homes you'll know that although livestock is often celebrated in paintings the staff rarely get a mention.

Erddig Hall, unlike many National Trust properties, remains open all year round, only closing its gates on 25th & 26th December. Although the main house was closed for refurbishment the servants quarters were open to the public and we were able to see the extraordinary paintings and photographs of the staff for ourselves.

Like the Harpur family at Calke Abbey , the Yorkes amassed many treasures during their 244-year residency and rarely parted with any of them. The curators regularly swap over the contents of the Hall so possessions can be seen and admired by visitors. If the servants quarters are a taster of the contents of the house, I can't wait to go back in the Spring.


Although we loved the scullery and laundry the kitchen was breathtaking.



The teal blue of the walls is almost identical to the colour of our lounge. When Queen Mary visited in 1921 she waxed lyrical about how wonderful the copper saucepans looked against the walls, she wasn't wrong.


As there was so much stuff already in Erddig Hall when they were bequeathed it, the National Trust didn't need to buy anything else to furnish it. One of the few additions was the ham hanging from the beam. It was ordered and paid for by a customer at the village butcher in 1938 but was never collected and donated to the Trust by the butcher in 1977 (but nobody has been brave enough to try it.)



The outbuildings are full of treasures including vintage cars, carriages, motorbikes and bicycles.






The volunteers told us that the gardens are spectacular in the Spring but even in the depths of Winter, they were astonishingly lovely.


For over 300 years visitors have been welcomed to explore the parkland at Erddig. The Yorkes did not want to hide their beautiful estate away, understanding the value of nature to the health and wellbeing of the local community. In 1779, Philip Yorke I put up this notice at the entrance lodge:

Mr Yorke having at great Expense, and at the labour of many Years, finished the Ground and Wood Walks about Erthig, desires to acquaint his Neighbours, that they are extremely welcome to walk in the same for their Health and Amusement.











The garden is largely the work of landscape designer, William Eames, who worked at Erddig from 1768 until 1780 who installed gravelled walkways and planted trees, many of which still thrive today.

















Apologies for the photo-heavy post but Erddig was so beautiful I couldn't resist going mad with the camera!


(If you want to see more of Erddig Hall check out our dear friends, Ann & Jos's 2018 visit HERE.)

It's Wednesday & the rum is calling - see you soon!

51 comments:

  1. Oh my word - what an amazing place - so glad you were click heavy, I've looked at the images several times, off to check the link on Ann and Jos's visit to see more :D

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    1. Its a fabulous place and I can't wait to see the upstairs and the gardens in the Spring. xxx

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  2. You two looked fabulous again and I loved all of the pictures. That kitchen was great - love the color and the wood carving in your last two photos. Jon looks so debonair with his foot up on the cannon looking to the skies.The Yorkes were very interesting people. So much to see and try to take in. What a nice day trip for you two. Ranee (MN) USA

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    1. Thanks, Ranee! I'm so glad you enjoyed Erddig Hall. Isn't that kitchen incredible? It's hard to imagine grand meals being prepared there without electricity, imagine cooking by candlelight! I thought it was wonderful that the Yorke's appreciated their good fortune in inheriting such wealth, treating their servants with love and respect and opening their gardens to the locals.
      Jon feels most at home in these grand houses since he discovered his illustrious ancestors. Take care. xxx

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  3. The blue wooden chair? I have a painted white one. Also very old. What an amazing family to have loved and given their servants the respect that they deserved. ps... yep, you and Jon? Both look as though you belong there xxxx

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    1. I love those humble little chairs, the stories that they could tell!
      Isn't it heartwarming to hear of a wealthy family who cared for their staff so much? You could feel the good vibes as soon as you entered the house. xxx

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  4. "Can you dig it??" reminds me of "The Warriors"! (my own musical reference the other day was the Boomtown Rats - Vizzini was saying "I don't like Mondays" and I replied, "Tell me why!", hee hee).

    What a gorgeous place that is, Vix! How cool that you can just hop over the Welsh border. We are close to the US (by water), but hopping over is a big no-no.

    Love your pics of the kitchen - wow, that copper just gleams against the teal walls! I love the pics of you and Jon ("this is my cannon!"). There is something about arches!

    Get to that rum! Enjoy your evening!

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    1. The Warriors!! Yes!!
      I Don't like Mondays, of course. I've still got the 7" vinyl I bought when it came out in 1979.
      Erddig Hall is a stunning. Apparently it's been voted The UK's Favourite Stately Home numerous times, I can see why. We're so lucky to have Wales on our doorstep.
      I did try and get Jon to sit on the cannon but he didn't want to get his coat dirty! xxx

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  5. I've visited Wrexham but didn't know about Erddig Hall otherwise I would certainly have visited it! I stayed in Gladstone's Library at St.Asaph in Denbighshire back in 2013 I think it was.

    It looks to be an amzing place to visit - not surprised the guy bankrupted himself just look at the size of the place! I love the kitchens too, mainly because I always think had I lived in those times I would have most likely been a lower level servant.

    You and Jon look very well wrapped up and stylish.
    xxx

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    1. I've never been to Wrexham before although I've been meaning to for years, the charity shops are supposed to be really good. I remember watching something on the TV about Gladstone's Librarry, I hadn't realised it was so close, definitely cause for a return trip.
      I wouldn't have minded being a servant in that kitchen.
      I had to laugh at one of the portraits of an elderly lady, employed as a spider catcher - I'd give her a job! xxx

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  6. Oh I enjoyed that tour. The treasure's of the cool bikes were amazing. Mr Yorke seemed to be a decent guy, sharing his good fortune.

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    1. What a wonderful family the Yorke's must have been.
      I couldn't believe how many cool bikes were piled up in that outbuilding, I was very tempted with the tricycle - I lost my ability to cycle when I had my hip replaced, I bet I could manage three wheels! xxx

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  7. so close to you, ya lucky lady. Wonder way those 4 matching window were bricked up? Thanks for another wonderful tour.

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    1. I love that we can travel to another country so quickly!
      Window tax was introduced in England & Wales in 1696 and to avoid tax home owners would brick up some of their window-spaces to save money. The act was repealed in 1851 but those bricked up windows are still a fairly common sight on old houses! xxx

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  8. What an exceptional place, and look at you - forgein travel no less 😜

    Mr Yorke was certainly ahead of his time in seeing his staff as people not just servants encouraging visitors, it's certainly somewhere I would love to see for myself.

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    1. I know, going abroad for the day, how decadent!
      There were some nice looking year round campsites on the way to Erddig and it's not far from the lovely market town of Owestry, either. A possible weekend away, I reckon!
      I loved how the Yorkes treasured their staff and allowed the public to enjoy their beautiful gardens, a rare breed! xxx

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  9. Wow what a fab place , I love that blue it matches my hair!! Those copper pans. I love people who never give anything away and keep for future generations. What a wonderful legacy for everyone to see.

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    1. Isn't it gorgeous? I adore that teal blue, it really does make brass and copper pop - you'll have to get yourself a golden tiara for your hair!
      I love people who preserve things for future generations, too. Thank goodness for hoarders! xxx

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  10. What an amazing property. This has to be up there as one of my favourites that you have visited. And the kitchen, especially, has my vote - Those pans! X

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    1. It's gorgeous, Jules. The kitchen was stunning. I can't wait to go back in the Spring and see the rest of it! xxx

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  11. I loved this post Vix - would like to visit there one day. I particularly like that the owners back in the day appreciated their staff and included them in the history and most of all that they made their gardens open to anyone who wanted to enjoy a bit of nature - unusual peope in their times without a doubt!

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    1. I'm so glad you enjoyed the visit, Betty! Every time we cross the border into Wales we say that we ought to visit more often, it's such a beautiful part of the UK and the people are always so chatty and welcoming.
      I loved how the Yorkes cherished their staff and how they opened their gardens to the general public, Wrexham was a large coal mining area back in the day so I bet those mining families really appreciated the opportunity for some beauty and tranquility in their lives. xxx

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  12. I always find the kitchen/domestic quarters as fascinating as the main house. Maybe they are more relatable to me than the grandness of the living quarters. Perhaps I was a servant in a former life.
    Lord Jon certainly wasn’t looking at him posing.for the camera haha.
    That was a super trip out and not to far either. Ann’s recording of their visit there was lovely to see again too xxx

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    1. I'd have happily been a servant if I could hang out in that kitchen all day - I couldn't get over the gorgeous colour of the walls!
      I reckon if I look hard enough Lord Jon will be related to the Yorkes - he was acting like he owned the place all day! xxx

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  13. That looks like a wonderful day out, you have some beautiful photos. We have never been to Erddig but we did visit and indeed stay in the holiday cottage at Chirk Castle just after the first lockdown. We called to Wrexham itself on our way home ... a sad town if ever we saw one.

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    1. Erddig's well worth a visit if your poor back improves next year, the kitchens alone were fantastic. I think Chirk Castle's next on the list - how wonderful that you stayed there!
      I've heard that the chazzas in Wrexham are worth a visit but that the town is even more down-at-heel than ours! xxx

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  14. Jayne (from Bag End) recommended this post to me and I'm so glad she did. I camp at various locations in North Wales and I've often seen the signs for Erddig as I've been driving down to Llangollen though I've never taken the time to visit. It looks such a fascinating place so I must make the effort to go there next year. Incidentally, if you do get up round Oswestry you might like to visit the British Ironwork Centre where they have sculptures and all things weird and wonderful made out of iron.

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    1. Hello Tigermouse! Lovely to "meet" you. We absolutely loved Erddig. We spot a couple of lovely campsites on the way there and said that we quite fancied staying longer next time so we could explore more of the area.
      I did see the sign for the British Ironwork Centre on the way home, it sounds like something I'd love! xxx

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  15. oh wow!
    stunning house - and i would move right in into that kitchen - just put a sofa in the corner :-D
    the BW would go mad in the garage - all the vintage cars and bikes!
    you both look perfectly right on place in the beautiful gardens....
    thanx for making so many pics!
    xxxx

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    1. Isn't it the best room ever? I'd sit by that range cooker with a book and a glass of wine and leave Jon to polish the copper!
      Erddig is the best kind of country house, full of personality and beauty. xxx

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  16. Have you thought about a career as a tour guide? You'd be very interesting to listen to.

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    1. I think I'd horrify people with my appaling Black Country accent! xxx

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  17. Totally amazing place, thanks for sharing your photos!. I totally agree about the copper pieces looking wonderful over the teal walls, so beautiful colours!.
    And you look fabulous (as usual!) in these photos, Lord Jon looks in his element!. Lovely photos!.
    And love the message of Mr. Yorke inviting his neighbours for a walk 'for their Health and Amusement', really love it!
    besos

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    1. Isn't it fabulous? I loved how good the copper looked against the teal blue of the walls.
      LOrd Jon was ready to move into the kitchen! xxx

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  18. What a treat to revisit Erddig with you! I bet the gardens are gorgeous in every season. As a kitchenalia aficionado, I always prefer the servants quarters over the main house, and these ones in particular certainly didn't disappoint. That teal blue kitchen is simply magnificent! I totally missed that story about the ham! You'll have to go back once the main house re-opens in Spring, and perhaps you can walk to that strange contraption of a water feature called the cup and saucer! Thank you for the memories, and the mention. I even re-read my own post :-) xxx

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    1. I remembered you and Jos visiting Erddig way back when and loved the look of it, I'm not sure why it took us so long to get there (blame Covid!)
      I loved the ham story. Did you hear about the gardener who died on the dining room table, too? If not you both need to go back! xxx

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  19. Thanks for sharing artikel!

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  20. You are well bundled up on this jaunt! But how green is this landscape, and how warm is the welcome at this establishment! Having grown up near a city park with some acres allocated to a formal "European" garden and large greenhouse, I especially enjoyed your photos of the allees and plants in pots. Wonderful scents of pine and mulch -- and old oil cans in the shed.

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    1. You could really feel the love in Erddig, the kindness of the Yorkes had seeped into the very bones of the house, we loved it!
      The garden was gorgeous despite the time of year, we can't wait to go back in the Spring. xxx

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  21. Croeso I gymru! I haven't visited Erddig, it looks amazing. I do so enjoy your visits to places I haven't seen. That blue really is a stunning colour, I have my stairwell painted it, thinking of using in another room.

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    1. We loved our trip to Wales so much I think we're going back next week - restrictions permiting! Isn't that teal blue a wonderfully calming shade? I think Jon would paint every room that colour given the choice. xxx

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  22. Oh that splendid kitchen Vix!!! That would stop Monsieur and I elbowing each other in our tiny one, fighting for surface space and the tap etc. How unusual about the staff, they must have been very well revered. Also very forward thinking of Philip Yorke to open up the estate, when you'd still get shot for trespassing on many others. I see Lord Jon is keeping up the old ways though with the cannon ;) I thoroughly enjoyed seeing your grand adventure. Lulu xXx

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    1. It was such an amazing place, I'd have happily moved into that huge kitchen, too! I'm dying to see the rest of the place and all the clutter the family accumulated! xxx

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  23. p.s. apologies if the message appears twice... we are having power blips... have given up watching t'tele tonight :0

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  24. Wonderful estate...the histoy of York family is fascinating. Great you enjoyed visiting it.

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  25. I have watched Downton Abbey and agree that Erddig very much resembles the estate in that show. So many wonderful things to see! I love the red and mint green bicycle - the colours are so pretty in contrast to the other bicycles. It makes me wonder who rode it.

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    1. I've never seen Downton - I loathed all period dramas until Peaky Blinders came stomping along! It's an incredible house and I loved the bicycle, too! xxx

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  26. That looks like a wonderful place. I tried Downton Abbey, but as the descendant of people who were in service in a big house (paternal nan's parents) I really couldn't get on with the programme's 'isn't it lovely when people know their place?' undertone. It's great that the family of Erddig recorded the lives of their servants too, seeing them as part of the estate's story.

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    1. I never watched Downton, its something that never appealed. I loved how much the family respected and cared for their servants and even opened up their gardens for ordinary poeple to enjoy, proper philanthropists! xxx

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Lots of love, Vix