Some twenty-five minutes after waving goodbye to George in Stegna, we caught sight of the dazzling white columns of the acropolis silhouetted against the azure skies and, moments later, behind the cypress trees, the whitewashed, sugar-cube houses clinging to the hillside below, came into view. We'd reached our next destination, Lindos, which has enjoyed the most beautiful setting on Rhodes since the Dorians founded the village 4,000 years ago.
I'd visited on a day trip when I stayed in Faliraki thirty years ago and, ten years later, returned with Jon for a blissful week spent exploring the magical tangle of hidden cobbled alleyways and chilling out in the grand houses of 15th-century sea captains, converted into bars and restaurants.
I do love a doorway!
Talking of beaches, back in 2001, we avoided the town's tourist-packed Main Beach and chose to spend our days basking on the pebbles of St Paul's Bay, alongside the locals. There was a little jetty where the fishermen would bring in their catch under the watchful eye of the village's cats and a tumbledown shack serving ice-cold beer. How times have changed. In the twenty years since we'd last visited, the beach had been colonised by a posh restaurant who'd added terracing & imported sand and covered every inch of space with sunbeds (costing between £30 and £60 for two, depending on their proximity to the sea).