The Not Quite As Distant Holiday Diaries - Panormos, Crete

After three days of exploring Rethmyno we gathered our belongings and caught one of the buses that run along the coastal highway. Masks were again mandatory for both driver and passengers, hand santiser was freely available and our €2.40 tickets were purchased via contactless card payment at the bus station prior to boarding.

Some forty minutes later we alighted at Panormos, a pretty little village 22 km east of Rethymno. A settlement dating back to ancient times, Panormos is home to the ruins of what was once a sixth century basilica, destroyed by the Saracen invasion back in the ninth century, as well as the remains of a Genoese castle. The archaeological museum we'd visited in Rethymno contained many ancient relics unearthed from the village including incredible jewellery from 4000 BC (making me wish I'd packed a spade).

We wanted to spend the rest of our time in Crete at the seaside but purpose-built tourist resorts with English-style pubs & rows of sunbeds on the beach hold little appeal. Trawling through TripAdvisor, the wonderfully helpful Magical Island of Crete Facebook page and The Rough Guide we came across Panormos in the province of Milopotamos. As it only has a few tiny beaches & a minuscule harbour, its said that even in high season it doesn't attract big crowds and as a result retains its tranquility and traditional village feel.  I also loved the name (I can spend hours staring at maps and tittering at place names). Panormos has become part of our vocabulary, as an alternative to bastard massive when describing something huge.

In these strange times, when so few are travelling, accommodation prices have been slashed. We could have stayed at a couple of hotels on the outskirts of the village for less than £15 a night but we've never been the type of people who enjoy big tourist hotels with swimming pools so instead splashed out on a harbourside apartment in the Captain's House, a beautifully restored traditional stone mansion perched on the very edge of the Sea of Crete. We arrived to discover a welcome hamper containing several bags of Cretan sultanas (one of the island's biggest exports), two bottles of local wine, some posh filter coffee, fresh fruit and, in this age of Covid, handy bottles of sanitiser and medical grade face masks.

The cobbled, traffic-free streets really were a joy to wander.

More often than not there'd only be us and a handful of locals going about their daily routine. We even saw a few of the male villagers resplendent in traditional Cretan boots and waxed moustaches, playing backgammon and greeting us with a cheerful Kalimera!

Loving the make do and mend ethos.

Nights in Panormos were low-key. Nikitas, was our first port of call. Every evening we'd order an ice cold Mythos, sit beneath the vines with the gang of cats, overseen by tabby Oscar and watch village life go by - ladies dressed in black playing cards, the gentleman sipping ouzo, clicking their worry beads and putting the world to rights. The bar owner even cut us down a bunch of grapes from the rafters which we'd nibble with our beer.

Yammas!

There were only a handful of tourists in Panormos when we visited, many come for the day in hire cars and leave by sunset. The bar & restaurant owners told us that even in normal times the village never gets too busy. Due to the island's temperate climate, Crete's tourist season runs from April until the end of October with the sea still warm enough to swim in as late as November. Due to Greece's strict lockdown measures, this year's tourist season didn't start until 1st July and, after the UK government removed Crete from their quarantine-free corridor on 9th September and The Netherlands government advised their citizens against all travel to Greece, many hospitality businesses have decided to close in mid-October rather than wait until the end of the month. Did the Cretans complain? Not at all. Most expected lockdown to last all year and were grateful for a few weeks of trade even if it was quiet. All are hopeful of a vaccination being found, a better year in 2021 and are full of praise for the fast actions of their government over Coronavirus. Crete reported just 70 Covid deaths out of a population of over 750,000.

Our favourite place to eat was Geronymos, a family-run taverna in the centre of the village. In busier times the ancient blue gateway behind us opens out into a lush garden but dining out on the cobblestones of the village square illuminated by festooned lights was pretty magical.

Jon rarely eats meat at home but absolutely loves the slow-cooked lamb, gyros and pork souvlaki when he's in Greece. If he decides he wants a meat dish I just ask the waiter for anything vegetarian and leave it to them to decide. I loved the Iman Bayildi, stuffed aubergines topped with chunks of feta cheese; briam, seasonal roasted vegetables in tomato sauce and gemista, rice stuffed tomatoes and peppers. Those grapes are those freshly cut from the arbor outside Nikita's bar and probably the best I've ever tasted (who knew grapes and lager went so well together?)

We'd buy locally grown fruit daily from the supermarket - peaches, plums, nectarines and grapes and have them for breakfast with the thickest, creamiest Greek yogurt known to man. As always a complimentary bottle of raki would arrive at the end of our meal and usually a desert, too. The Loukoumades, Cretan doughnuts dripping in local honey were a revelation.

Did I mention cats? Panormos has the biggest (and friendliest) cat population we've ever come across on our travels in Greece. We'd buy boxes of cat biscuits in the supermarket and feed every cat we met. Never before have I wandered the aisles of a shop with a cat following me.

But it's not just the tourists with an affection for felines. Visit the village early in the morning and you'll find entire colonies of cats eagerly awaiting their breakfast from the Panormos residents. Many houses have bowls of water and food outside, we spotted charity collection boxes on the shop counters....

And even numerous well-stocked Cat Cafes dotted around the village.

Breakfast time!

The outskirts of the village is home to farms, vineyards and olive groves. 

Many locals told us to come back in Spring when the hills are covered in wildflowers, mesmerising even people who've lived here all their lives. Even in September there was an abundance of colour at the roadside as well as a plethora of pomegranates, lemons, figs and grapevines ripe for the picking.

The remains of the Genoese fort.

Even on the beach you get cat cuddles. Paul Panormos lay with us every day.

Panormos has several beaches. In normal times the one on which we chose to spend our days is apparently monopolised by the residents of the all inclusive complex at the top of the road. Fortunately for us (but probably not so good for the owners) the hotel didn't open this year meaning we that shared the sand with a handful of locals who'd pop down for pre-siesta swim.

The view from the Captain's House. Shall I tell you about the Sea of Crete? We swam in it at least three times a day. There's no tide, its delightfully calm with virtually no waves and, towards the end of September, as warm as a bath. Beware the sea bream though, they have no fear of humans.

A wonderful mix of ancient buildings, Greek tradition and nature in abundance.

This cove had a sign saying that the beach was for the sole use of the occupants of some luxury villa rentals nearby but as they were all closed up (another casualty of the pandemic) we thought we'd be safe trespassing.

Is Panormos really this tranquil, chilled & purr-fect in more normal times? There's only one way to find out...we'll have to go back in the Spring!

Take care and see you soon.

PS For all my Panormos photos click HERE