Friday 3 May 2019

Cool in a Kaftan


You can wait ages for the right kaftan to come along and then, like buses, three turn up all at once.



Glamorous and easy to wear, kaftans are loved by everyone from the rich and famous to the downright ordinary (me!)


Fenella Fielding, Liz Taylor & Joan Collins showing us how it should be done.

Marisa Berenson in gold caftan by Tina Leser. Photo by Henry Clarke, 1968. (Source)

The kaftans of dreams - 1970s fashion shoot

What exactly is a kaftan? If you search through the hundreds of listings currently on eBay (over sixty pages at the last count) you'd be forgiven for being confused as you'll find everything from kurtas, maxis, abayas, tunics, ponchos, beach cover-ups and tent dresses.

According to the Collins Dictionary definition :
 Kaftan in British or caftan (Noun)
1. A long coat-like garment, usually worn with a belt and made of rich fabric, worn in the East
2. An imitation of this, worn, especially by women, consisting of a loose dress with long wide sleeves.

(L) Dior emerald green kaftan Photo from Vogue, September 1966. (R) Sharon Tate, Photo by Orlando Suero, 1966. (Source)

In her book, A Fashion Alphabet (1968), Late professor of Fashion Design at the Royal College of Art, Janey Ironside writes:

Traditional Hebrew Kaftan (Source)

Kaftan (also caftan): This was originally a garment worn by Hebrew men in Palestine in Biblical times. It was an open-sleeved over tunic under which emerged the sleeves of a lower garment. The Kaftan was left unseamed at the sides as far as the armhole and had a purple tassel at the end of a purple thread hanging on each corner, standing for the four consonants of the holy name J.H.V.H.


Christian Dior Printemps Collection from 1967 chiffon kaftan (Source)

Christian Dior translated this man's garment into female terms in one of his most applauded collections that was built around the theme, in which the kaftan became an overcoat slit to the armholes over a long-sleeved dress; the evening version was a long satin kaftan over a slim floor length dress. The shape has been perennially used for dressing gowns and negligees for men and women, but with the renewed interest in the East since the Second World War and Dior's couture version, the kaftan has become a fashionable garment for almost any occasion, in varying lengths and many versions.

Vintage kaftan worn with 1960s lime suede go-go boots (gift from Vonda, a blog reader & virtual pal); 1960s mustard suede fringed shoulder bag (Cancer UK clearance shop); 1960s navy felt hat (Age UK) 

Wednesday's outfit was this 1970s, hand embroidered, open-weave cotton kaftan. It was supposed to have been bought for stock but I tried it on for size and ended up taking three dresses out of my wardrobe so I could keep it. Just look at all that work! 


This reminds me of the kaftans you use to find handing outside bijou boutiques in Mediterranean beach resorts, tempting in the cruise boat day trippers with money to burn.


When I spotted this handmade hooded cotton kaftan on my friend Val's Vintage Facebook page (HERE) I was instantly reminded of that iconic rooftop photo of Talitha Getty in Marrakesh and I knew buying it would be the perfect feel good gift to myself to make up for the disappointment of last weekend.

SOURCE

Shown the right way round with my Gujarati pendant (left) and on the reverse so you can admire the amazing block printed cotton it's made from. 


Today's kaftan is an eBay find (amazing what treasure you find on a Sunday lunchtime when everyone else is eating roast dinners or whatever else it is that normal people do instead of bidding on vintage gems).


 This Indian-made, embroidered gauzy cotton number is very sheer - I'm wearing leggings and a bodysuit underneath for modesty's sake. With the Dry Clean Only washing instructions, the cut and the metal hook and eyes fasteners than run down the back of the neck, I'd say this is from the 1960s - especially as it's got a bit of a Bond girl look to it (although there's nothing Bond Girl about wearing it around the charity shops this morning). I'm wondering if the Ayesha's label is an early Ayesha Davar, a London-based British Asian designer who made exceptionally beautiful clothes using Indian cottons and block printed fabric in the 1970s.


 I'm wearing it with some leopard print Jones the Bootmaker ankle boots Jon took as part payment for a dress when a customer at a festival didn't have enough cash, a ginormous Indian brass pendant, some brass earrings I bought from a women's charity project in Tamil Nadu and a contemporary black wool felt hat from a charity shop.


It's another bank Holiday weekend here in the UK, whatever you're up to have a fabulous time and see you on the other side!

Linking to Patti & the gang for Visible Monday.


























44 comments:

  1. I found you via Sheila and totally love the Kaftans you have worn and displayed here. The rich color one with the hoodie is my personal favourite.

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    1. Lovely to meet you, Lorena, Thanks for the visit! x

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  2. Kaftans are so glam - I love your black/gold one, you have found some delightful additions to your wardrobe - I hadn't thought about wearing this type of kaftan until seeing your post, I am converted. I want the gold one from the 1968 pic, my legs are always cold whatever the weather, so this would be just perfect.

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    1. You definitely need a long kaftan to add to your fabulous collection. The blue one I got is great, a heavy cotton so perfect for now. xxx

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  3. For some reason your posts weren't showing in my feed... I have sorted the problem and am positively drooling over the kaftans. I wore them in my misspent youth and used to buy lovely cotton ones on Stockton market back in the seventies.

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    1. They're a real throwback, aren't they? My mum used to have a brown velvet hooded one with gold frog fastening, she always wore it on Xmas day! xxx

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  4. What are the chances of finding not one, but three amazing Kaftans! That 1970s hand embroidered one is just fabulous, especially paired with those lime suede boots! The hooded one must be my favourite, the pattern and colours are gorgeous. And yes, you did deserve it after last weekend's horror! xxx

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    1. I had my kaftan head on last week, that's for sure and certain! xxx

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  5. Oh my goodness, these are beyond belief. My personal fav is the pink hooded beauty. gasp. I've made a few paltry kaftans, but there's no comparison, none at all.

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    1. I can't imagine anything you make would be paltry! xxx

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  6. amazing post dear :)
    do you want do follow each other?

    xoxo Buba

    https://bubasworld.blogspot.com/

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  7. It never rains, but it pours! What a bunch of gorgeous caftans! My grandma was a caftan lady in the 70s, and lately I've been seeing a few in the thrift stores. I'd love to swan about in one on the weekend!

    Thanks for showing the details of the sewing, the block-print and the label - I love that kind of detail. It's what makes these pieces unique.

    Wishing you and the boys (Jon and kitties) a lovely weekend, Vix!

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    1. Grab yourself a kaftan and emulate your fabulous grandma!! xxx

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  8. I have an embroidered vintage jacket with the exact same Ayesha's label! I bought it from a local market stall and have often wondered about it's origin. Love that floral kaftan, you've found some real gems!

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    1. What a coincidence about the jacket - I wonder if they are early Ayesha Davar? xxx

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  9. Those are amazing! All the really cool women wore kaftans in the 60s and 70s so it is only right you should have a wardrobe full of them.

    Have a great weekend.

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    1. You are kind! I'd kill for some of those vintage ones in the photos - as if I haven't got enough already! x

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  10. Vix, I ADORE your kaftans, especially the floral and navy one. How interesting to learn about its origins and I enjoyed all the kaftan pictures you included in this post. Enjoy your weekend. X

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    1. Thanks, Jess! Something to look out for on your travels?
      Hope you had a fab weekend. xxx

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  11. super mega ultra cool!!!
    especially on you! this fabulous garments are made for you. and what beautiful examples you got..... love the old fashion shots - have to wear my kashmiri coat/kaftan more.
    <3 xxxxx

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    1. If that Kashmiri coat was mine I'd never take it off! xxx

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  12. You hit a trifecta! They are all beautiful and you wear them so well. Many years ago, a free-thinking friend made a caftan and harem pants outfit for her wedding -- not boring white, but multi-colored. It was gorgeous.

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    1. Thank you so much! Wow, your friend's wedding outfit sounds spectacular! xxx

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  13. Three kaftans? Fabulous! They're all gorgeous and I'm hard pressed to choose a favourite but I think the blue one (the first one) wins by a margin. I love the lime green shoes with it. You have some lovely silver earrings sitting on it; love the spiral design.

    I also enjoyed looking at the vintage photos of Kaftan wearing slebs from the past.

    Every time I hear or see the word kaftan I have an immediate mental image of Demis Roussos...such a shame.

    Hope you're having a great weekend.
    xxxxxxxxx

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    1. I'm a bit of a Demis fan on the quiet - one of our VWs only plays 8 tracks and we often listen to one of his!
      I was adamant that blue kaftan was to sell - but it's such a lovely thing to wear! Those earrings are donkey's years old, I think they're Balinese. xxx

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  14. They look beautiful - and comfortable!

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    1. They really as easy to wear - definitely something worth hunting down secondhand, the perfect travel wear! xxx

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  15. The Dior Printemps one is stunning!
    You got three good'uns there, my favourite is the blue one, which looks particularly gorgeous xxx

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    1. Isn't the Dior one amazing? I think I'd have to sell a kidney to own that beauty! xxx

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  16. Thank you for this lesson in fashion history. I knew Kaftans came from the Middle East but I had no idea they used to be worn by Hebrew man in biblical times. That part about them having a religious significance is interesting too. I didn't know about the influential Dior collection either. Fascinating stuff. I can definitely see their appeal.

    How lovely you found not one but three kaftans...and one is more beautiful than the other. You look fabulous in all of them. That hooden one especially! I love its vibrant colour.

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    1. My pleasure! I loved that Dior took inspiration from ancient history to create something wearable and covertable.
      That hooded kaftan is such a vibrant colour, hard to imagine it's half a century old! xxx

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  17. WOWWW, I do love a kaftan and I Do Love Your Fabulousness wearing any of them!, those embroideries on the first one are something particularly appealing!, and the color and print in the second one are to die for!, and obviously you look gorgeous in the last one, the brass bijouterie enhances everything!
    I really love anything with a embroidered neckline and massive sleeves, but these qualities are not easy to find in local charities here. Glad that you got these three lovely pieces!! You Totally Rock!
    besos

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    1. Thank you! I adore embroidery and big sleeves, too! I always drool over kaftans in harbour towns when we're in Greece but they're so expensive (marketed at the wealthy types who go on cruises!) xxx

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  18. Oh the glamour! I wouldn't say no to a couple of those Dior numbers to waft about in. I do love the hooded one on you best, it is very 'you'! xx

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    1. I'm so excited about the hooded one, I can see myself wearing it over a bikini for lazy lunches in Greek taverns. xxx

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  19. Louise McDonaghMonday, May 06, 2019

    I now feel the urge to seek out a kaftan of my own. Fabulous xx

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  20. That floral caftan is utterly incredible. I've always loved that photo of Talitha Getty too. My favourite modern caftan wearer is the Duchess of Cornwall; I love the fact that she'll go for the comfy frock and pile gems on top (hey, fashion goals - comfort AND glitter!).

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    1. I Googled the Duchess of Cornwall and wow, she looked amazing in that kaftan - proper glamorous. I also came across a photo of her and Charlie raising a toast to the new baby with huge steins of lager. What a woman! x

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  21. Your kaftans are gorgeous! I am especially enamoured by the second one. I LOVE them to have hoods. For years I would ogle my Mum's blue hooded kaftan (she won't let me have it- will have to wait till she dies!!! :-) so I've hopefully got a good few decades to wait ) but she did give me one that she made which I like very much so that is good!

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    1. What a shame that your mum is tormenting you with that fabulous sounding kaftan - I want to see it. Will she lend it you for a photo? xxx

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  22. Fenella isn't a name you hear much. And I almost din't recognise Joan Collins there!
    Isn't it always the way, you search for ages and then find loads. I love the blue and the floral ones, and the black one - so that's a thumbs up to all of them then!
    A lot of men's garments are now worn by women, the breton top being the only one I can currently think of...
    xx

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    1. isn't that a gorgeous photo of Joan Collins? I'm so used to her very made up face, I never realised what a natural beauty she was. xxx

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Lots of love, Vix